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What burrs do you use the most?

Patrice Lemée

Patrice Lemée

Joined
Aug 13, 2002
Messages
5,703
I need to buy a few and since when I order something I always end up buying shapes or sizes I don't need that much :( I figured I would ask the pros.
I am talking about HSS or carbide burrs for a Dremel. (1/8th shank)
Used mostly for shaping guards and also shaping/carving handles.

And while I am at it, do you prefer HSS or carbide?

Thanks
 
Im curious myself I have never thought of using burrs in a dremel but I use them everyday at work in pneumatic die grinders. Where are you looking at these Patrice?
 
I just bought some for my end grinder to help shape handles. I will let you know how they work out.

My brother makes arch top guitars, mandolins and etc and uses them and another burr type tool on his 4 1/2" grinder to rough out and swears by them
 
My most used burrs are carbide cylinder burrs. I have them from 3/8X3/4 down to 2mm.
HSS will not last on knife work...send the money on carbide.
 
If you mean the burrs for metal work I have a bunch of those in carbide. Mostly 1/4 shank for my end grinders. I have also used them in my mill at high speed. The ones I use the most are the pear shaped ones. I have a little 1/8 shanked one that is my go to one in the dremel. I have used it to do "file work" on the spine of hardened blades.

You need to keep a fairly solid grip on the grinder as well as the work. These can pull themselves pretty good if you don't keep control.

I thought you were talking about the burrs with the little hook like teeth that work great for wood, plastic and soft metals.
 
Thanks guys, carbide it is then. At least we are talking smaller stuff cause carbide does get pricey when you go up in size like large end mills. I may buy a few HSS but for wood only then.

I am curious about the burrs you are talking about Jim. :confused:

Now that you mention it Stacy, I have a couple of the cylinder ones and I do end up going back to them. Never tried the pear shaped ones Jim but I will.

Thanks again for your help.
 
Patrice Lemée;8874860 said:
I need to buy a few and since when I order something I always end up buying shapes or sizes I don't need that much :( I figured I would ask the pros.
I am talking about HSS or carbide burrs for a Dremel. (1/8th shank)
Used mostly for shaping guards and also shaping/carving handles.

And while I am at it, do you prefer HSS or carbide?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Dremel's "EZ-Lock" quick-release cutoff wheels are sweet, and not all that expensive.

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Attachm....aspx?catid=54&catname=EZ+Lock+Cut-off+Wheels

The cheap diamond stuff on Ebay is pretty darned nice. Not great quality and the grit size isn't real consistent, but they move material mas pronto.

One product I like in particular - the 1/2" diamond drums fit to a rubber hub, like the paper-backed sanding drums.

http://cgi.ebay.com/360313101097

They work very well but the rigid metal (nickel?) backing raises a couple of caveats:

1) They're not particularly round and they're not particularly well-balanced. I tend to run them slower than regular paper-backed sanding drums

2) They'll get hot enough to smoke the rubber hub if you're careless. I use a Foredom flex shaft, so I can dip the drum often, and I do. Otherwise, if you're working steel with it, the duty cycle's going to be pretty lean.

Speaking of flex shafts. If you're spending the money on good burrs and tooling, consider popping for a Foredom rig. The 1/6HP motors are great, easy to maintain, and a lot more, ahhh, "flexible" than a motor in hand. One feature is especially nice - quick-release handpieces. You can pop handpieces off and back on the shaft in a couple of seconds, no tool needed.
 
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For metal work, the 1/4 to 1/3 HP flex shaft rigs are the top of the line. Smaller motors don't hold up as well.
 
Thanks for the info Doc, I'll look into that. Foredom hey? Guess we figured out what I'll ask Santa for. ;)

Stacy, most knifemaker suppliers seem to be selling the 1/6 HP Foredom.:confused:
 
Patrice Lemée;8880396 said:
Thanks for the info Doc, I'll look into that. Foredom hey? Guess we figured out what I'll ask Santa for. ;)

Stacy, most knifemaker suppliers seem to be selling the 1/6 HP Foredom.:confused:
Click to expand...

I have a couple of 1/6HP SR-series motors, and they get the job done, but Stacy's right. I'd love to have a 1/3HP TX.

This page compares the different models:

http://www.foredom.net/Foredom-Motors-Controls.aspx
 
Patrice Lemée;8881153 said:
Thanks for the link Doc. Any difference between hanging and bench models beside placement?
Click to expand...

I have some of both. Typically the hanging models are controlled via a variable speed foot-pedal, which is quite convenient. Often the desk models have a control knob on the machine itself. That means having to reach for it on the bench, which is anything BUT convenient.
 
Patrice, make sure to get a reversible variable speed flexshaft tool. When you can reverse rotation of the tool it makes it easier to perform the same operation on each side of the knife in an identical way. I have a bench base on mine, it is okay, but the hanging tool would clear up some bench space.
My neighbor works for a dentist and gathered up all the old dental burrs, autoclaved them and gave them to me. These aren't something I use daily, but they have come in real handy. The diamond ones really remove metal, for being so tiny. See if you can scrounge some from your dentist.
The tool I use most in the flexshaft is the small sanding drums.
Be specific with Santa, she'll be more of a hero that way.
Have fun.
Alden
 
akivory, thanks for the link.

Phil, I think you can get both with foot pedal but like Alden said, bench space is at a premium so I guess hanging it will be.

Alden, good idea about it being reversible. I also like the small sanding drums but I sometimes would like more removing power in the first shaping stages.
Can I ask where do you buy your drums?

Thanks again for the help guys.
 
Joe Szilaski gave a demo talk on carving both steel and handles at
a Vermont hammer in a few years ago. He said the the burs he uses the most
are the rounded cone shapes which he grinds the tip flat on. He finds the resulting
edge conforms well to his hand motion when carving steel.

Did this make any sense or do I need to try an explain better?
 
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