What can a 102 take for rougher use ?

upnorth

upnorth

Joined
Nov 25, 2006
Messages
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Good day gentlemen. I recently bought a 102 and I really enjoy it on many levels. I had a 119 years ago and think that I'll get the 105 next. As I already have more than enough large FB's. Anyway, can I make feather sticks (shave) moderately hard wood with the 102 ? Basicly, will it take those types of downward forces without failure? I am just trying to be realistic as this is a small blade in a small handle. I have no idea how thick the tang is, but I'm guessing fairly small. I have zero desire to ruin a perfectly useful knife then go through all the hassle of returning it, particularly if it was my fault by exceeding this little knifes stress parameters. It did up some taters quite nicely yesterday. Oh, and while I'm at it. Is the 105 Path finder a little more robust and will it take a bit of heavier use ? I have no desire to baton wood with either, I just don't see them intended for that type of thing.
 
Both of those knives will take all the downward pressure your hand can stand.

Don't hammer on them and they'll outlast you.

:D
 
I regularly make wood shavings and feather sticks with folders like Opinels (as in like 5 minutes ago when walking the dog) or a Buck 110, 112, 500, 482, 486 and such. I also regularly cut branches, limbs and brush with these knives using the bend and cut method. I find the Bucks do a better job at wood cutting if you polish down the shoulder of the cutting edge, a trick suggested by a frequent poster to the Traditional forum. Lay the blade flat on a strop with 2000 grit paper and use edge trailing strokes. The concave grind Bucks don't bind up in the wood as much. (Convex ground Opinels are still better for wood.)

I do find that a sawing motion helps with making heavy cuts in wood (a tip suggested by Cliff Jacobsen's books). For this reason, I like knives with blades around 4" (e.g. Buck 110, Buck 486, Opinel #10) for this kind of stuff.

In any event, I can't imagine feather sticking or limb cutting damaging a fixed blade.

Batoning is another issue. All bets are off.
 
pinnah said:
I regularly make wood shavings and feather sticks with folders like Opinels (as in like 5 minutes ago when walking the dog) or a Buck 110, 112, 500, 482, 486 and such. I also regularly cut branches, limbs and brush with these knives using the bend and cut method. I find the Bucks do a better job at wood cutting if you polish down the shoulder of the cutting edge, a trick suggested by a frequent poster to the Traditional forum. Lay the blade flat on a strop with 2000 grit paper and use edge trailing strokes. The concave grind Bucks don't bind up in the wood as much. (Convex ground Opinels are still better for wood.)

I do find that a sawing motion helps with making heavy cuts in wood (a tip suggested by Cliff Jacobsen's books). For this reason, I like knives with blades around 4" (e.g. Buck 110, Buck 486, Opinel #10) for this kind of stuff.

In any event, I can't imagine feather sticking or limb cutting damaging a fixed blade.

Batoning is another issue. All bets are off.
Click to expand...

Indeed. I am happy to see that I don't have to molly coddle these knives though. I'll just use a little uncommon sense with their use and all should be fine. :)
 
I've batoned green wood with mine and never a problem. I've carried it every day for so long I don't even remember when I got it. I have a coupla spares, one new and unused and a really beat up one I picked up for 10 bux in a pawn shop. So far I haven't needed them. I like 'em!
 
The 102 is a great knife and can withstand anything you throw at it. It is my favorite user type fixed blade.
 
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