What can I do with .040 thick AEBL???

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Apr 3, 2015
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I normally don’t go anywhere near this thin with bar stock, but I would like to use it for something. What could I do with it other than making a box cutter? I’d hate to pull it out of my oven and end up with a steel banana.
 
If your stock is wide enough make one of those rounded mushroom shaped leather knives. I think they're called head knives.
I forgot to mention, it’s only 1.5” wide. I ordered it along with a larger sheet of .057 thick carbon steel that I’m going to use for a leather knife.
 
I originally planned on using it for a fillet knife, but I figured it was too thin for that. I may give it a try after all.

Keep it clamped between two pieces of angle iron right after quench and through temper or you'll have a scorp!
Rapalas are convex ground, so that may make it a little easier on the grinding and keep it from bending against the platen.
Might be a good time for one of those felt platen covers.
 
Keep it clamped between two pieces of angle iron right after quench and through temper or you'll have a scorp!
Rapalas are convex ground, so that may make it a little easier on the grinding and keep it from bending against the platen.
Might be a good time for one of those felt platen covers.
Thank you!
 
High end pairing knives......
I know I've been wanting to make a few for some time
This.
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I always keep couple of this thin sharp blades around the kitchen. These are just soft, low cost thingies but sharpen quick up and are nice to peel an apple, potato or do precision dicing. Having one in aebl at 62/63 would make it even more fun. Thin stock like this will bow no matter what, but it will straighten easy with a carbide tipped hammer. Light taps and check because it is easy to overdo on such thin stock.

They grind and finish quickly so you might want to do a batch out of the whole bar. Cut your 1.5" blade in half, 3.5" blade, 4" handle.
 
I’ve been grinding.062 on a couple of kitchen knives, man, it’s thin. It heats up fast and easy to ruin with the slightest amount of pressure. It warps really easy too. Super fun to work with
 
I’ve been grinding.062 on a couple of kitchen knives, man, it’s thin. It heats up fast and easy to ruin with the slightest amount of pressure. It warps really easy too. Super fun to work with
I've ground also about 10 on (used) belts and was encountering this. Less pressure, more dunking in water and not grinding in one place (equal passes) solved it, especially heel and tip are proun to overheating. I now leave the tip and heel thicker and finish them last (slowing down the speed).
 
Finish on felt platen, much cooler and you get nice convexity. Burning won't be a problem. This is my latest edc 1.4 mm or 0.55" m390 done that way, a little more work to grind than AEB-L. I love the thin blade.

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Nice! What kind of clip is that on the sheath?
 
.040 is ideal for a round knife. Your piece isn't large enough for that. Your .057 stock will work for the round knife but .040 would be better and AEB-L is an ideal steel for such a project at 62-63 RC. I much prefer stainless over carbon for a roundknife. There are certain times that I cut leather damp or even pretty darn wet. With AEB-L there is no oxidization transfer to the leather.

There is a long thin straight type of skiving knife that would work for your piece of steel. I call this the Paul Long Skiver as he was very instrumental in the design and the first one ever, went to him. He has said multiple times that this is the finest skiving knife of this type he has ever used period and he's been bending dead cowhides since 1951. Its .040 AEB-L at 62-63RC.

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He is very adept at using this type of knife. I never really learned how and so don't use one myself. I'm a push skiver kind of guy myself. Paul uses it cutting towards himself and the rounded tip is sharp too with the edge running all the way up.

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You have enough steel to make a push style skiver. I made one out of .040 once and didn't like it. Too flexible. I use .070 for that job.
 
.040 is ideal for a round knife. Your piece isn't large enough for that. Your .057 stock will work for the round knife but .040 would be better and AEB-L is an ideal steel for such a project at 62-63 RC. I much prefer stainless over carbon for a roundknife. There are certain times that I cut leather damp or even pretty darn wet. With AEB-L there is no oxidization transfer to the leather.

There is a long thin straight type of skiving knife that would work for your piece of steel. I call this the Paul Long Skiver as he was very instrumental in the design and the first one ever, went to him. He has said multiple times that this is the finest skiving knife of this type he has ever used period and he's been bending dead cowhides since 1951. Its .040 AEB-L at 62-63RC.

w5yjabe.jpg


He is very adept at using this type of knife. I never really learned how and so don't use one myself. I'm a push skiver kind of guy myself. Paul uses it cutting towards himself and the rounded tip is sharp too with the edge running all the way up.

wiacUUv.jpg


You have enough steel to make a push style skiver. I made one out of .040 once and didn't like it. Too flexible. I use .070 for that job.
That’s awesome! I may give one of those a shot. What kind of wood is that?
 
Little thin knives are popular as dovetail marking knives in the woodworking community. The standard set by mass produced tools is low (really low), so if you can get AEBL anywhere close to 60, you could tout something like this.

These knives are a lot of handle and not much blade, though - I don't know if PM is available on here, but if you want some examples of what I'm talking about, I'd be glad to point you to them.

Separately, a little light parer with a hard thin blade is just dandy with experienced users who have a good feel for things.
 
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