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- Jan 14, 2007
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This will be a LONG and detailed post, but neccessary. So here goes.
I have an Emerson 2012 CQC-7AW. I noticed soon after i got it that the liner slips quite noticeably when performing my regular test for linerlocks.
My test simply consists of using moderate hand force to attempt to close a knife, with the occaisional spine whack on my palm. I do not spine whack my knives on anything else. I understand the fallacy of that.
Now, while the knife hasnt closed, despite spinewhacking into my palm as hard as i can, it DEFINITELY isnt optimal. One day i decided to clean the blade tang to see what happened. Now, i dont usually use lube, so the lock face wasnt compromised, but to my surprise, the slip went away. For awhile.
Long story short, the lockup is still inconsistent. Sometimes solid, most of the time it slips. So i tried one other thing i had learned knifemakers commonly do. I spinewhacked the knife a couple times on a hard surface, firmly, but gently. While i dont do this as a test, the purpose here was to "seat" the liner to the tang. No change there either.
Anyway, only the very hardest waved and inertial openings will lock up tight, and even then not every time.
My reason for posting is this:
While i know EKI will take care of it if i send it in, id really rather not for a few reasons:
They are one of the few companies that charge for return shipping, and charge a LOT. This chaps my ass as the knife came this way new.
I absolutely love this knife, and dont want to be without it.
So far, the blade has never disengaged, despite my best reasonable efforts. So im really not concerned with safety yet.
And mainly, because i highly suspect the solution is retarded simple. The blade settled in early on at about 40% lockup, and hasnt moved. Knowing what i know about these locks, by design, the liner should move as far as possible until it cant go any further, meaning that things shouldnt be moving once fully engaged Obviously somethings up, and while im no expert, i am familar enough with mechanics and physics to be totally perplexed as to the cause of this. These things arent rocket science.
As a side note, im also baffled by something else related. Linerlocks need to be angled so as to contact only the bottom of the tang, as shown here in the "correct three point relationship" diagram about halfway down.
http://emersonknives.com/get-know-knife/
When i took apart my 2011 Mini Commander, the lock appears to engage the entire face, as in the "incorrect relationship" diagram on the right. This is baffling because the knife locks up fine, and also because the knife hasnt been damaged or worn, meaning it came from the factory "wrong."
With the above information presented, i want to ask:
1: What factors cause play in a linerlock matching the condition of mine?
2. I havent tried bending the spring for more tension yet, as i consider this a bandaid. In my mind, if the spring has enough tension to move over far enough to fully engage, and the blade still slips, then something else is wrong.
If this is incorrect, please educate how to do it PROPERLY?
3. While i highly doubt it would be needed, and probably wont do it on a warranted knife, how do correctly i peen the liner?
Thx for reading this book. I WOULD LIKE TO REQUEST ADVICE FROM THOSE WHO ARE KNOWLEDGABLE IN THE MATTER. USEFUL theories are welcomed, but please indicate if you are just guessing. No rudeness intended, but id like to learn accurate info, such as how a maker would handle this, and avoid incorrect ideas.
Your expertise will be greatly appreciated. I look forward to learning.
Thx.
I have an Emerson 2012 CQC-7AW. I noticed soon after i got it that the liner slips quite noticeably when performing my regular test for linerlocks.
My test simply consists of using moderate hand force to attempt to close a knife, with the occaisional spine whack on my palm. I do not spine whack my knives on anything else. I understand the fallacy of that.
Now, while the knife hasnt closed, despite spinewhacking into my palm as hard as i can, it DEFINITELY isnt optimal. One day i decided to clean the blade tang to see what happened. Now, i dont usually use lube, so the lock face wasnt compromised, but to my surprise, the slip went away. For awhile.
Long story short, the lockup is still inconsistent. Sometimes solid, most of the time it slips. So i tried one other thing i had learned knifemakers commonly do. I spinewhacked the knife a couple times on a hard surface, firmly, but gently. While i dont do this as a test, the purpose here was to "seat" the liner to the tang. No change there either.
Anyway, only the very hardest waved and inertial openings will lock up tight, and even then not every time.
My reason for posting is this:
While i know EKI will take care of it if i send it in, id really rather not for a few reasons:
They are one of the few companies that charge for return shipping, and charge a LOT. This chaps my ass as the knife came this way new.
I absolutely love this knife, and dont want to be without it.
So far, the blade has never disengaged, despite my best reasonable efforts. So im really not concerned with safety yet.
And mainly, because i highly suspect the solution is retarded simple. The blade settled in early on at about 40% lockup, and hasnt moved. Knowing what i know about these locks, by design, the liner should move as far as possible until it cant go any further, meaning that things shouldnt be moving once fully engaged Obviously somethings up, and while im no expert, i am familar enough with mechanics and physics to be totally perplexed as to the cause of this. These things arent rocket science.
As a side note, im also baffled by something else related. Linerlocks need to be angled so as to contact only the bottom of the tang, as shown here in the "correct three point relationship" diagram about halfway down.
http://emersonknives.com/get-know-knife/
When i took apart my 2011 Mini Commander, the lock appears to engage the entire face, as in the "incorrect relationship" diagram on the right. This is baffling because the knife locks up fine, and also because the knife hasnt been damaged or worn, meaning it came from the factory "wrong."
With the above information presented, i want to ask:
1: What factors cause play in a linerlock matching the condition of mine?
2. I havent tried bending the spring for more tension yet, as i consider this a bandaid. In my mind, if the spring has enough tension to move over far enough to fully engage, and the blade still slips, then something else is wrong.
If this is incorrect, please educate how to do it PROPERLY?
3. While i highly doubt it would be needed, and probably wont do it on a warranted knife, how do correctly i peen the liner?
Thx for reading this book. I WOULD LIKE TO REQUEST ADVICE FROM THOSE WHO ARE KNOWLEDGABLE IN THE MATTER. USEFUL theories are welcomed, but please indicate if you are just guessing. No rudeness intended, but id like to learn accurate info, such as how a maker would handle this, and avoid incorrect ideas.
Your expertise will be greatly appreciated. I look forward to learning.
Thx.
Last edited:
minimal lubrication in the pivot is good. I am pleased to hear your successes, and enjoy your insightful questions.