What color compound should I use to ake out fine scracthes?

MTHall720 · Mar 4, 2012

I have been working on a blade which I want to have a high luster finish. I was using a dremel with felt pads and green compound. Next I tried hand sanding with 1500 grit 3M wet/dry paper. I was shocked to find I had put fine scratches all over the blade I had nearly gotten to a very glossy, semi mirror finish!

Now what? Back to the dremel with green compound, or use Red, or white first? Any clues about the sequence?

Thanks very much for all insight on this.

richard j · Mar 4, 2012

try a small area with the green again and see what happens. the same with the white but keep it in a small area and do it lightly. the red is real fine and it gets all over the place.

MTHall720 · Mar 4, 2012

THanks Richard. Will do that. Have a great week buddy. Sure wished you lived in my area.

richard j · Mar 4, 2012

is your number still the same? if so i might give you a call tomorrow.

Obsessed with Edges · Mar 5, 2012

Some 2000 grit paper, beyond the 1500 grit, will make the polishing easier. 2000 is where the shine really begins to 'pop' on the blade. After that, metal polish like Flitz/Simichrome will take it further. There's too big of a grit jump, from the 1500 grit to the green compound, which is a very small particle size by comparison. And depending on the brand of green compound, some are mixed with coarser particles of other abrasives, like aluminum oxide. I've noticed some inconsistency in the finish left by my green compound (bar form), leaving some haze in the finish. So, some green compounds might be counter-productive, unless they're known to be pure and consistent in particle size (should be < 1 micron).

MTHall720 · Mar 5, 2012

richard j said:
is your number still the same? if so i might give you a call tomorrow.

Hi RIchard
Same number thanks. I will be working my regular 8-5 today. Reception is a little spotty where my area is today(inside buildings isn't always too good) but if I don't hear the phone sometimes leaving voice messages still works

MTHall720 · Mar 5, 2012

Obsessed with Edges said:
Some 2000 grit paper, beyond the 1500 grit, will make the polishing easier. 2000 is where the shine really begins to 'pop' on the blade. After that, metal polish like Flitz/Simichrome will take it further. There's too big of a grit jump, from the 1500 grit to the green compound, which is a very small particle size by comparison. And depending on the brand of green compound, some are mixed with coarser particles of other abrasives, like aluminum oxide. I've noticed some inconsistency in the finish left by my green compound (bar form), leaving some haze in the finish. So, some green compounds might be counter-productive, unless they're known to be pure and consistent in particle size (should be < 1 micron).

I will look for some 2000 grit paper. Maybe 2500 after that? Would red compound be better to be used before the green, with green being the last one to use?

SPNKr · Mar 5, 2012

Gray/black is the roughest compound, followed by white, followed by green and finally red. I don't know if I've misread your post but you seem to have used the 1500 grit sandpaper after the green compound? 1500 grit is much rougher than the compound and will definitely leave visible scratch marks, though the blade will feel smooth.

I suggest you use the white compound to buff out the obvious scratch marks as it cuts reasonably fast and finish off with the green or red.

Obsessed with Edges · Mar 5, 2012

MTHall720 said:
I will look for some 2000 grit paper. Maybe 2500 after that? Would red compound be better to be used before the green, with green being the last one to use?

The higher you go in grit, with the paper, the easier it'll be. If you can find some 2500, by all means, go for it.

The red compound might not help too much. It's usually iron oxide, which is quite soft compared to other compounds like aluminum oxide, silicon carbide or diamond. Red is usually intended for use with softer metals like brass, silver, gold, etc. This is why it's usually known as 'jeweler's rouge'. Some steels will be harder than the compound itself. With simpler steels, like basic carbon steel, it may work a little bit. But with more advanced alloys, the carbides in those won't likely be fazed by the red compound. Give it a try if you like, but if it looks like it isn't doing much, don't waste too much time with it. I'd still recommend trying out a metal polish made for steel, like Flitz or Simichrome. It'll have the greatest impact on the finish. As I mentioned earlier, green compound is kind of a toss-up for polishing, depending on how pure it is. If anything, once you've already got a good shine on the steel, you might try the green on a small area, and closely examine the finish for coarse scratches. Shouldn't be any, if the compound is good. But if you do see some new hazing or scratches, I'd avoid using it for polishing.