What constitutes chopping?

M

mx125

Joined
Jan 9, 2004
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I apoligise as I'm brand new to this but have been researching and reading about various steels/knives in search of a new camp knife. I feel like I want to be the owner of one of the "high end" steels and have looked at the nimravus in M2 and really like the looks of the Sog X42 Field knive. It's also less fearsom and actually don't want to appear 'military' to casual aquiantances. Anyway . . i see a lot of references about the X42 steel being too brittle for any chjopping duties. Does that mean actually chopping kindling (which i won't do)or simply hacking off very small saplings or chopping a point in a stick (which i would do)? If I'm actually in chopping realm I need to determine if I really should stick with softer steels and also if i need a heavier overall knive. Thanks.
 
My opinion, which is worth every penny you just paid, is that NO knife, not even a Strider or a Exrema Ratio should be used for chopping if some other dedicated implement is available. Knives are made for slicing.

I have a cheap camp axe, less than 10 bucks.

The reason this issue comes up is that while my vacations are planned, the idea is that a survival crisis might force one to use whatever he has. A tactical knife manufacturer might harden parts of the knife differently to help abuse. Or he might call Jerry Vancook and tell him to try to break the knife in bizarre testing and then he studies the debris for improvement. (I know Mick Strider wants the broken stuff back for analysis).

If you have a choice, and weight is not an issue, take something for cutting, and something else for chopping.
 
The Buck Master Series knives that I have with BG42 alloy blades are not brittle (but I hear that their heat treatment was devised by Paul Bos so that may not be fully representative). For example I took my BG42 bladed Vanguard hunting knife and used it to chop notches in the edges of beef rib bones with no problems.

Unless I had a hatchet I don't see myself chopping points on sticks, I would whittle the points. To do it by chopping I need to put the stick point down on a log and swing at it. I would want something much longer and heavier than a X42 for that to be efficient. I wouldn't expect trouble from a little bit of hacking at light branches or sapplings, but the knife is a bit light for that kind of work. I would look at one of Swamp Rat knives products if you really think you need to chop. I usually notch things and break them if I am not carrying something more like a hatchet.
 
"There is no best design. There are only best designs for: for certain people; for certain jobs; for certain demands." Ken Warner, The Practical Book of Knives.
 
Respectfully, no. If you want to chop, you want a "chopper." By all means a Busse "chopper," but not all things "Busse" fall into that category. (Yes, I know, sacrilege.)
 
Thanks for the replies. That is helpful. So for a general use camp knife . . . when as you say, most work will be cutting (chopping EXcluded) . . .is the blade length on a SOG field knive or nimravus actually not helpful? I do think I like the idea of a fixed blade for ease of instant one hand access and grip size . . but should i actually focus on smaller blade versions (Nimravus cub/SOG pup or Benchmade Hunter series for eg. in 440C)?

Further to that, i suppose, I wonder if you experienced users really see advantage of fixed blade in a camp knife or am I just being a newbie?
 
Originally posted by mx125
I wonder if you experienced users really see advantage of fixed blade in a camp knife...?
Click to expand...

I went for years without a fixed blade in the bush. I got by with a large SAK (rucksak model) and a leatherman when they came in. I still could get by without the big blade but something longer than 6" sure makes life easier.

One day I got stuck in a thorn thicket that took almost a day to extract myself from, all the time thinking - I wish I had a machete or some other large knife. Now I take one with me every time I go bush.

Sometimes it's used because it's the closest big chunk of steel (hammering pegs for shelter, busting open shellfish etc), somtimes it's used to chop (although for breaking up wood I often use the large SAK saw) and sometimes to cut.

Different folk will use a diffetent combination of small knife, large knife, hatchet, machete - depending on what they are used to, how long they are staying out, where they are going and wether they are walking (making weight an issue) or not.

That's the good thing about getting 'out there' everyone invents their own system. I think I carry a large fixed blade (currently Ontario RAT7) mostly because I like it.
 
Mx125,

Forgive me for asking, but will you be using a truck or car to get to this camping area, or are you carrying in your supplies with a back-pack for wilderness or orienteering use?
 
On Bladeforums it seams like people think of a camp knife as sort of a do-all survival tool--something that you could use to build a camp. I generally think of a camp knife as something I use to function in a camp. This is more like an outdoor kitchen knife--something used more for food preperation than anything else. The Talmadge Tactical Kitchen Knife made by Trace Rinaldi is a great choice for this function (but cost up in the $250 range). The X42 Field Knife would also serve the function well at a fraction of the cost. If this is your primary use and you want a cheap rugged knife I would look at the Camillus Becker BK10 with 5" blade or BK7 with 7" blade. Since the blades are not stainless they are tougher should you decide to do some chopping.
 
Further to that, i suppose, I wonder if you experienced users really see advantage of fixed blade in a camp knife or am I just being a newbie?
Click to expand...

I've always found them useful. My personal favorite heavy duty camp knife is a Himalayan Imports 16.5" WWII. HI has a forum here if you're interested in checking them out. I use this knife to split small pieces of kindling for the fire (I find it works better for this than a hatchet, more control) and if necessary it could easily clear brush or any other mundane chores. If weight isn't an issue I always prefer a bigger knife because it can do things that a smaller one can't, and can usually still do the jobs that a smaller one can, albeit not as easily. If weight is an issue, a good 5-7" fixed blade should take care of most chores. I like Camillus's Becker line and Blackjack's line, but there are lots and lots of choices in this category at just about any price point. As a general rule simple carbon steels are much tougher than stainless steels and can take more abuse without gross damage, but they may require more frequent sharpening and will rust if not properly cared for. My preference is carbon steel for fixed blades for that exact reason. Good luck with whatever you choose.
 
Again . .thanks for the replies. To the tourist . . .that is a good point and i likely will be driving to the camp 99% of the time as much as I like to 'think' I will be trekking into the wilderness. So I suppose weight comes down to something i feel comfortable wearing around and won't leave in the truck . . .and I will have a small axe with me as well. I will also look up the tactical kitchen knife as a large part of it will be food prep. Thanks again.
 
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