what degree?

[cut it out]

whats your guy's prefered bevel degree for a small fixed blade? 30-25-20-17? I just changed my one knife to 25 and it is the sharpest knife I have ever had. its a swamp rat swamp warden. I used the lanskey kit with base and stones not diamonds and could not be happier, I sharpen my knives free hand but for changing or fixing badly damaged knives I got this system. I only changed the bevel cuz the factory edge was uneven and it was bothering me. lol thanks

 

[ricklee4570]

I wouldnt trust the markings on the Lansky kit as being accurate. There is so much that comes into play with those kits. How thick is the knife blade? How far did you seat the blade into the clamp? All of that plays a factor on the bevel degree.

 

[cut it out]

I wasn't aware of those things you listed? could you help me out by explaining please? the knife is like .135 and I set it in the clamp just pass the groove in the clamp with thin rubber to keep from scratching and to keep it from sliding. is there a way to check excactly what I ended up with?thanks

 

[M. McCord]

With a Lansky, if you clamp the blade at the edge and use the 25 degree angle it will give you one angle. If you put the clamp farther down the blade away from the spine and use the 25 degree the geometry has changed and it will create another angle.

 

[KennyB]

With a Lansky, if you clamp the blade at the edge and use the 25 degree angle it will give you one angle. If you put the clamp farther down the blade away from the spine and use the 25 degree the geometry has changed and it will create another angle.

All clamped angle guides are like this simply by the principle of the design. In fact John Juranitch's company sells one that shows you how to "microbevel" by simply repositioning the blade in the angle guide.

With the DMT aligner I just use a marker to mark out where the parts of the clamp should be, and this is close enough. However if I remember the lansky, the under portion of the clamp extends out a little further than the top, so that might be harder to do.

 

[M. McCord]

All clamped angle guides are like this simply by the principle of the design. In fact John Juranitch's company sells one that shows you how to "microbevel" by simply repositioning the blade in the angle guide.

With the DMT aligner I just use a marker to mark out where the parts of the clamp should be, and this is close enough. However if I remember the lansky, the under portion of the clamp extends out a little further than the top, so that might be harder to do.

I've only used a Lansky kit so I have no experience with the DMT. What I've done and it works well for me is to have a set position on each blade that the clamp extends to. I then use that set point whenever resharpening to avoid changing my bevel.