What Did You Sharpen Today?

K

kreisler

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If you want to find this (unwatched) thread, find it thru recalling this shortcut URL:
http://bit.ly/wdystoday ("why dis today?" 🤪)

today i sharpened a blender's 4-wing blade which was still assembled to its rotating socket. each blade wing had a different height (relevant for sharpening clearance) and orientation. i used 3 different portable ruby stones to get the task done. also a wood strop. not an easy task because the bevels weren't easily accessible (orientation, narrow blade width, lack of clearance, recurves)

the other day i resharpened a Graef bread cutting machine's 15cm disc blade. every other year i do that even though the blade is sharp enough. same tools used.

was good fun, looking forward to the next time!
 
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Worked on these yesterday....the right side knife is a Russel Green river steak knife and I have a set of 4 of those - brought them all back to a toothy working edge.

Blue handled Opinel is also a steak knife....or paring knife for my wife. Also in a set of 4, but I only worked on this one.
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Both brands have been very useful practice knives for refining my freehand skills - they are thin behind the edge, form a burr easily enough, and get sharp. Good confidence builders.
 
Thanks to everyone for sharing in this collective thread, let's keep it up! :thumbsup:

Hi NORTHWEST_KNIFE_GUY NORTHWEST_KNIFE_GUY , honest sorry for the delay but yes my plan is still on. The review will be textual with a few photos. It's imho kinda hard to review a stone in a meaningful way to express one's points, no matter in which form (text photo video). Words/footage could hardly convey what a stone feels or performs like in reality. So in the end it'd all come down to believing word out of my mouth anyway, wouldn't it :rolleyes: (other than the supporting voices by the few degussit owners in this community). I was also thinking of completing the beautiful wooden case 'project' first. K kreisler no more excuses please! :p okok, things should form within the next four weeks, do stay tuned till then thx for your interest!! :)
 
kreisler said:
Thanks to everyone for sharing in this collective thread, let's keep it up! :thumbsup:

Hi NORTHWEST_KNIFE_GUY NORTHWEST_KNIFE_GUY , honest sorry for the delay but yes my plan is still on. The review will be textual with a few photos. It's imho kinda hard to review a stone in a meaningful way to express one's points, no matter in which form (text photo video). Words/footage could hardly convey what a stone feels or performs like in reality. So in the end it'd all come down to believing word out of my mouth anyway, wouldn't it :rolleyes: (other than the supporting voices by the few degussit owners in this community). I was also thinking of completing the beautiful wooden case 'project' first. K kreisler no more excuses please! :p okok, things should form within the next four weeks, do stay tuned till then thx for your interest!! :)
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Looking forward to the review and seeing the stone in the case! :)
 
Freehanding. Raised'n reduced a full burr wire edge on my blue Ti hardware UK suru (btw only 1pc left in Heinnie stock ;-) with 1× 204F on the fish hook groove face (as depicted), then removed it with geman ruby at snail speed special technique:poop: :p. A minimally loaded wooden strop did final (unnecessary) cleanup. Felt like 5mins total; i never hurry though so it was prolly more than 5mins in reality.
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The factory edge has a justifiable uneven bevel grind because of the exotic blade's varying thickness "behind the edge": a uniform bevel grinding angle (like by a guided sharpening system) would result in a wide bevel nearing the blade's tip. Freehanding allows to follow/match the varying grinding angle perfectly, if that's what you're after. Totally love the titanium (don't buy the drop.com blue alu variant unless you want to gift it to me!:p) and the fact that the blade runs on phosphorbronze washers not ball bearings. By now, thankfully, i also like(!) the cheesy hole looks. Knife is easy to engage and disengage single-handedly, the clip is beautiful but not very practical (2 hands required!).
 
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soc_monki soc_monki 325grit sounds coarse (like all factory edges), have you checked with a 150x loupe, would you say that the apex line is toothy or zig-zaggy in any way? I am always amazed about the coarse finish on Spyderco bevels (and on Stanley utility blade bevels) yet their apex lines are straight, smooth, keen, and i was struggling for 2 years to reach Spyderco exfac sharpness through my freehanding techniques.
 
kreisler said:
soc_monki soc_monki 325grit sounds coarse (like all factory edges), have you checked with a 150x loupe, would you say that the apex line is toothy or zig-zaggy in any way? I am always amazed about the coarse finish on Spyderco bevels (and on Stanley utility blade bevels) yet their apex lines are straight, smooth, keen, and i was struggling for 2 years to reach Spyderco exfac sharpness through my freehanding techniques.
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I was using the diamond rods on my sharpmaker, then microbeveling with the medium stones. So it's similar, just freehanding instead except for the microbevel. I like the coarse edge, seems to slice very well, but push cutting is compromised. Can cut through rope and other things like butter though, no need for a serrated edge.

Haven't checked with a loupe yet, been working 7 10s for 3 weeks, why I've been sharpening and doing maintenance on break/lunch lol!
 
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Today i resharpened the "A 94"-blade on this old pair of garden scissors. The model is out of production but i appreciate that 1) it is very easy to disassemble, 2) the blade is thin with a straight edge, 3) the "shears" close perfectly even if the blade is consumed after repeated sharpenings. Btw technically these are not shears because there is just one blade and it doesn't shear with anything.

It's my 2nd or 3rd time resharpening. Before, i had used the Ruixin Pro III or the Sharpmaker rod (can't remember was 2yrs ago), the result was super sharp iirc but the blade was clearly developing a recurve: straight edges "cannot" (or shouldn't) be sharpened with a popular guided system, especially not with the Sharpmaker IMHO.

So today i was glad to make use of my mean dead flat 5cm-wide ceramic stones and first grind out the recurve; that's the way to go, the grinding contact has to be wider than the straight edge length, otherwise you'd create a recurve. I raised a very fine burr wire with the stones. Due to technical reasons i couldn't deburr on them but had to resort to my aggressive wood strops for deburring. Worked out fine. ("Wood strops are more effective in deburring than leather strops." ©2020 kresil :p)

There are more powerful higher quality garden shears in the current catalog but how easy are they to maintain, disassemble, and resharpen? — When i buy toolz, maintainability/ease of maintainability/cost of maintainability definitely factor in my purchase decision .. even with such small inexpensive garden shears.

Was some fun and for sure satisfying. My high point of the day! :poop: :D
 
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Yesterday I cleaned up, took the rust off and sharpened 3 pairs of Felco secateurs (pruners) using a combination of wire wool, BKF and my DMT coarse mini paddle hone.

also sharpened my 8inch Chefs knife, recently thinned behind the edge with wet and dry, and then finished on my Chosera 800, and green compound on leather.

Now easily push cuts with and against the grain at a 90 degree angle on the thinnest newspaper like paper I have which comes from a National Trust (this is a UK Heritage group) brochure.

Very pleased with my Sunday’s work!
 
Last year i sharpened the lawn mower1 (has plastic chassis) blade for the first time, i had put in much efforts/time to get a mirror-polished paper-slicing sharp edge. It was a successful long sharpening session, excellent result, i was happy and proud. But then, as i remember, when i cut the grass, the blade also cut the soil at some point (convex surface). So after the first mower run the blade lost its keen apex! :confused:

So today i took a more relaxed approach, especially since the edge had developed a concave edge line (of course from my last year's sharpening efforts:oops:). Impossible to sharpen on a whetstone with sharp 90° edges, the stone had to have rounded edges. My abrasives of choice were the abused Exduct diamond hone 360# for grinding and the Spyderco 204M for deburring, either has rounded edges.

It didn't take much time at all to raise a burr and to deburr; probably because i had set a nice neat bevel a year ago. I must say that the diamond hone is the perfect match for this kind of tool blade. Using a file or a stone is not the way to go imho ymmv.:rolleyes: I have another lawn mower (has metal chassis) with which i cut into soil even more often:poop:. I'll resharpen it too. This thread will help to remind me that i should use the diamond hone for the mower blades .. i'd seriously forget otherwise because in my mind i had scratched off the Exduct stuff from my sharpening arsenal a long time ago. If i recall correctly, the Exduct system was my first more serious/ambitious move into sharpening. Before that, i had only used the portable pocketable pull-through sharpeners; i still have 4 of them iirc, they're good for nothing :D

(i'll add a photo of the mower1 blade later this week np)

Mr.Wizard said:
Why?
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Given how easy it is to file down this cheap soft metal (sheet metal?) a file would abrade too much material lol. And the roughness of the file would leave a non-fine finish. A 302 stone is flat and has sharp ceramic edges, a concave edge would destroy the ceramic edges unless you chamfer the stone edges or round them off. Because of the big size of the blade product, you take the 204 stone to the blade, not the blade to the 302 stone, out of convenience. My diamond hone has rounded edges, is not too narrow (producing a mild concavity only), shaves:p metal fast, and leaves a shiny finish.
 
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