what didn't happen? ATS34 ht

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Jun 17, 2010
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First, let me say that I did not intend to heat treat this, it is just a scrap of steel I put a bit of a bevel on and a point to use as a sample piece while test firing my ht forge. It's 5/32 ats34.

I had the piece in there for about ten minutes with it no more than dull red, if anything. Then I repositioned the burner to improve efficiency and turn up the heat. Doing that a little at a time using the blade color as a reference. I moved the blade in and out of the heat briefly a few times, trying to figure out if I had any serious hot spots or cool spots in there and that type of thing.

I eventually had the burner where I thought was good and the steel was bright red, starting to go toward yellow. I did not check magnetism or anything along those lines and it only stayed there about five minutes at most while I tested to see if the propane supply would freeze up at the settings I was using. (20lb tank, overkill burner so I am not using it full blast but it still might freeze up the tank if I have it too high for a while.)

When I was done I turned off the burner and pulled the blade out and left it sitting vertically on the bricks so the equivalent of the spine and one other point having contact with the bricks but otherwise just air. It was a breezy 70 degrees out. I left it there till everything was cool enough to touch so I could put it all away and basically forgot about the steel till last night.

I figured what the heck, and took a file to the steel, it skated. Hmmmm, ok, so it at least got hard on the surface, interesting. So I tested the back where it had not been in the heat, yup, soft still. So I decided to run it through the toaster oven at 275 for an hour. Figuring I'd give the low temp/short temper a try since I doubted it was all that hard anyway.

I did that today, then took it outside and ground the edge to an actual edge, rounded off some edges and took off most of the scale toward the blade area (speaking loosely, it only has passing resemblance to a knife). The blade angle is pretty steep but enough to kind of test an edge. I ground it semi sharp then smacked it around a bit with a handy wrench. Minor dings but nothing that stood out as odd. Smacking it pretty hard on the side did nothing. Smacking it on the concrete did nothing (other than dull up the point). It's a fairly short piece but I put it in the vice and put some sideways pressure on it, but minimal bend and no damage other than slight marks from the jaws.

I brought it in and sharpened it up some more, kind of tough with the odd and uneven angle on the edge but it's amusing.

So my question for the experts is why is it surviving? And what is it lacking compared to proper heat treating with the increasing temp soaks and such per the recipe's for ATS34. i honestly expected it to not be hard at all when I took the file to it, and after it skated that I expected it to either break on any real test after the light temper or be too soft for any abuse of the edge.

My SWAG is that I have very incomplete conversion but because the edge spent significantly more time than the rest of it past critical I've gotten enough conversion there (maybe even went over temp, but probably not on time) and less so on the rest of it. I'm not really sure how much of a difference my "quench" had but I would think it was too slow and again, I lost out, but once more, the edge probably cooled nearly fast enough and the rest is softer but still had some conversion. The temper was pretty light, but since I hadn't ever gotten it fully hardened it was probably about right, speaking very generally. :D

I'm expecting that my edge will not retain sharpness as well as a properly heat treated blade. Otherwise, I am wondering if there's a real loss compared to the correct method. Don't get me wrong, I have no intention of doing it this way again, I didn't really intend to the first time but figured I might learn more by doing a few more steps after I skated the file.

Thoughts, comments, theories? I might clean this sucker up a bit more, grind a better bevel on the blade portion and use it as a shop knife. I forgot my pocket knife the other day and realized I didn't actually have a sharpened blade out there.
 
Broadly speaking, steel that quenched at HRC 66 and tempered back to 60 is tempered martensite and will perform well.

Steel quenched at 61 and then tempered back to 60 is brittle (barely tempered) martensite in a mixed structure of martensite and pearlite (and other stuff).

This is an over simplification for stainless steel, but the concept is still valid. Two identical blades at the same HRC can perform very differently based on the HT.

A mixed structure with retained austenite and pearlite can be very tough in things like a die, but they tend to perform poorly in most knives.


It is not unusual for a complex steel with a short soak at temp to skate a file. Around here, we like to use the crunchy peanut butter analogy.

The blade will probably not perform well when taken to a thin edge. I'm not dissin on your project - but you wanted to know the difference.
 
So about what I figured, it hardened and tempered, but while it appears like it worked so far, it's lacking the actual structure internally that would make it a good HT.

I ground it to a better angle and resharpened, it's sharp enough to slice paper somewhat, not as well as a thinner knife with a better angle, but about what I'd expect from a knife designed this way. I'll probably make one from 1080 with a similar edge design as my first test with that steel just to compare them, since i can actually HT that properly. Now that the edge is thinner I might try some more tests on it. It's sharp enough to scrape a fingernail but not really dig in at all.

Back to the right process, I understand the need for the soaking times, but why at multiple temps on the way up? I haven't ever found a good explanation for that. I assume it has to do with getting things moving inside the steel and that we want certain changes to take place first, without the others starting. I just don't know WHAT those changes really are compared with just the simple conversion to martensite.

As for dissing on the project, that's exactly what I was after. I knew it was flawed, otherwise there would be no reason for the more complex recipe, but I just wasn't sure where the flaws were and why. I'm guessing that it's the general design that was compensating for the brittleness and now that I've thinned out the blade section a bit i'll see some chipping or cracking when i test it again.

I'm very excited to try heat treating for real now. My HR 1075/1080 from Admiral Steel showed today, and my new grinder. So now I just have to wait on the belts and glass platen. I'll probably profile some blades tomorrow since I can do that on the current grinder so I'm all ready. lol, I wouldn't put it past me to make a simple design on the hardware I've got and HT tomorrow, just out of impatience.
 
I cant speak authoritatively for ats34, but different soaking temps. are utilized to get the benefits of soaking, carbide dissolution, stress relieve, etc while mitigating the harmful aspects of grain growth. what you have discovered is that all this fancy stuff is not necessary to get a decent hard knife electric kilns, and exact heat treating procedures are a relatively new development. We and large industry seek that extra bit of performance (which for some steels can be quite allot).
 
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You're in the fun discovery part of the process. That's really cool. :thumbup:

1080 will work well with your process. Since you're just in the grins and giggles phase, try quenching it in a 10% brine solution to remove pearlite from the equation. Go get rock salt, table salt has iodine in it. If it doesn't ping, it will likely have the best fine edge stability you have ever seen and may be the highest performance blade you've ever played with. It boggled my mind and totally changed my standards of "good". You're in for a lot of fun. Mediocre 1080 is better than really good ATS34 (or s30v for that matter) in fine cutting and hack and whack kind of stuff.

RE: soak times at different temps
Aside from the dimensional changes that you want to keep even, there are temperatures ranges you want to minimize time in to prevent carbon from pooling in bad places. So you soak just short of that range and even out, then sprint past it to austenitize. It also reduces soak time at the highest temps, which reduces pitting. This is all more important with big stuff, I'm not sure how important it is with knives.
 
Nathan, I'm assuming that if I leave things a bit thicker at the edge I can reduce my chance of it self destructing during the quench. Or is that not enough of a difference to matter, or just not going to do anything and a full thickness would be just as likely? I'm learning all the details of quenching and how it works but was mostly hunting information about the safest and most effective and fool proof methods for the steel you guys suggested.

My thought is that the thicker edge will cool slightly slower, reducing stress. But I know that within reason the brine quench is about as fast as it gets and maybe it doesn't matter how thick the steel is, the surface is still being cooled fast enough to start the break and then it just continues right on through in a chain reaction.

I'm using 1/8" steel for now so I'm not sure how much I could really leave extra at the edge, but I could take it down a bit and then redo them to the planned result post HT. With 1/8" I can't go too far anyway, taking scale off afterward will be a significant change and I'd rather have to take a bit more off than wind up smaller than desired.

Luckily, living in CT, I have plenty of rock salt around. I'm not one of those folks who has to go to the store before the big storm, it's cheaper in larger amounts anyway.

Back to the tech side real fast. If I do a brine quench on the 1080, assuming I had the steel to proper temp and don't ping it or warp it into a pretzel, what kind of temper do you suggest for the 1/8" on a full height ground edc/skinner type blade? My current plan with a canola oil quench is one hour at 350 and test. Then maybe a second hour. Some charts suggested 400 for an hour, some said twice at 250... I imagine I'll try quite a variety, but what's a good start for the brine rather than the oil quenched start? I'm sure it'll be starting a lot harder and more stressed, so would I go with 400 twice? Or stick with the lower temp but do it three times?

I am going to normalize the steel with a three step set, reducing temp each time, before I start the actual final HT. From what I understand, once just past critical, once just under, then again a bit lower than that to just about where it starts showing red. cooling naturally in the air between. Final HT is past critical but trying to not overheat any part of the blade, particularly the tip and edge. I'll test with a magnet and from what I gather I should be going just a shade brighter than that before quench, but don't need any real soak time with the 1080 in knife thickness material.
 
I use almost exclusively 1080. I've made quite a few blades in 1/8" stock.

I use parks 50 to quench with. Next best thing to brine for 1080. I've never cracked a blade with parks but I've cracked every one that I've quenched in water.

Anyhow, your question on tempering: I've had really good results with tempering 3 times, 2 hours at a time, at 415*.

Two times would probably be good but 3 doesn't hurt and I like to go 3 to be sure. I'd do two for sure though.

As Nathan said, 1080 makes a really tough blade that has pretty good edge holding too.

If a blade survives the quench, the results of tempering should be the same regardless of the quench medium.

Others may have different results, this is just what works for me.
 
Thanks. I'll try that temper, nice to have numbers from someone actually using them, not just repeating book numbers like most of the charts I've found.

Park 50 is on my list of things to get, but for now the extra cost over canola oil is not in the budget. Kind of like the good grinder...

This is why I love this place. So much help and advice from people who actually know what they're talking about. People are willing to share their experience with us neophytes.
 
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