what do i do with this Burl

theevilmike

theevilmike

Joined
Sep 16, 2010
Messages
484
im not sure where to post this question, feel free to move it if it needs moving
ive come across an iron wood burl, its very large
its from central ontario canada
Ironwood Ostrya virginiana, is the official name

the question is what to do with it
sell it? keep it?
if im to keep it, how do i preserve it for use, the info ive found states that it could take 5 to 10 years to dry, possibly more, unless i cut it up
id hate to cut it up if its better to leave it as is
any advice is better than what i have now
thanks, ill include some pics

Mike

DSC00752.jpg

DSC00748.jpg

i sprayed some varathane to seal it
DSC00757.jpg
 
may be better of posting this in the makers forum or even general. i don't think this sub forum gets a lot of traffic
 
That's a very nice chunk o' wood!

Ostrya virginiana (commonly called American Hophornbeam), it is a VERY wear resistant species. It has been the choice for years as runners on sleighs and used for wagon wheel hubs and axles because it is so good at withstanding high friction wear.

Do you have a mill anywhere in your area? Or perhaps somewhere that has a kiln to dry it? I'm a "burl hunter" and have quite a few burls myself, but none of THAT size in Hophornbeam. Frankly, I have never seen a Hophornbeam THAT BIG!:eek:. Most that we see here in the North East don't show over about 6-8 inch diameter at the base.

Fortunately I have a wood mill close buy that will either buy from me, or if I choose, cut it into smaller pieces and kiln dry for me.

If you were able to get it cut and dried, it should be worth much more than trying to sell it as is. Cut into blocks, I think it would be good for knife scales or full handles. The knife makers forum might give you some better info as some of them might have used the stuff.

Personally, I'd love to have it. It makes me drool...

PS. If you do decide to keep it for 10 years to dry naturally, I have a few drying like that myself, I just coat all of the cut faces of the wood with a thick coat of paraffin wax and put them in a dry location.
 
If you are into making knives. Was the cut end and store it for a few years. Then forget about it for a few more years. When you find it in 6-8 years cut it and make handles. You could post it in the Shop talk area and see more information about what to do. You may even get a few offers as to buy it from you. Whatever you decide let me know. I think it has potential for several things.
 
thanks for the interest
i have no idea what it would be worth
and i dont think i have the patience to wait 6 years :D
 
That is a huge one. A furniture maker can make beautiful table tops out of that and the scraps will make many knife handles.
 
You might contact fellow BF member "Burl Source" and see what he thinks of it. He's a great guy, VERY knowledgeable, and I'm sure he will offer you some advice/ideas for it.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/member.php?u=237159

ON EDIT: I just can't get over the HUGE size of that thing!!! I've never, ever seen one that big and I didn't realize that the tree grew THAT large. THAT good man, is quite a find! (yes I'm jealous!!:D)

EDIT ON EDIT: I'd give my left nut for a piece of that thing!!!:eek: (But unfortunately, my wife has my nuts in her purse;):D)
 
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i did send a msg to him, just waiting on a response
im looking to get information so i dont screw this peice up, i dont know what kind of timeframe i have to work with it before it cracks or does something else
 
You can wax it or paint it immediately then cut it after you decide you need to. That's the safest course.
 
theevilmike said:
i did send a msg to him, just waiting on a response
im looking to get information so i dont screw this peice up, i dont know what kind of timeframe i have to work with it before it cracks or does something else
Click to expand...

Dan Pierson said:
You can wax it or paint it immediately then cut it after you decide you need to. That's the safest course.
Click to expand...

As Dan suggests, wax it or paint it ASAP and get it into a dry place! Do it NOW!!

A few blocks of paraffin wax and a torch will go a long way to keep it from checking. Thick coat of paint is also an option, but I prefer the wax. There are "professional" substances that you could buy, but in my experience, paraffin works just fine.
 
thanks Dan
i varathaned it, well the cut surface anyway

*edit
im keeping it out in the shed, the temp is below 0, thought it would keep it from drying very fast
 
well, it was on an ironwood tree, i cut trees for a living (arborist)
the tree is still standing, im hoping it survives the cut, theres a dozen more smaller burls on it
 
theevilmike said:
thanks Dan
i varathaned it, well the cut surface anyway

*edit
im keeping it out in the shed, the temp is below 0, thought it would keep it from drying very fast
Click to expand...

There are several formulas of Varathane but none are really suitable for use as a moisture barrier on green or wet wood. It's a finish applied to dry wood i.e., floors and furniture and counter tops. You will certainly have adhesion problems. Heavy coats of acrylic base paint or emulsified wax or melted paraffin are proper moisture barriers.

Looks like a lot of bark inclusions and voids to deal with for the high quality cuts needed for most knife makers and the fall down will be high. Wood turners on the other hand can utilize the whole thing.

edit: When I was buying and logging timber on thinning jobs I applied emulsified wax to any inadvertent bark damage to no-cut trees caused by the logging equipment. I believe it sealed off access from bugs and other air borne critters bent on doing damage.

0 degrees, huh?? It should "freeze" dry itself..hahahahahahah
 
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EvilMike,
I have never worked with hornbeam so anything I say would just be a guess. I sent you an email with a couple ideas.
 
Wax it soon, A bit of beeswax in with the paraffin will make the wax a bit stickier. Hornbeam was used on the sole of some quite famously made historically significant planes (Not the kind you fly , the kind used in woodworking). Very long wearing wood but burns poorly as it burns hot and slow nicely but never really seems to give decent coals and big ones are a bear to split by hand.
 
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