What do I need for sharpening duties????

M

Mark1967

Joined
Feb 10, 2009
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I just bought a nice Knives of Alaska Magnum (D2 tool steel) and a Knives of Alaska Steelheader (440C stainless steel). I also have a Buck Knife, Mini Alpha Hunter (154CM stainless steel) as well as a few others, including some real cheap Rapala's etc. I have been using a Lansky Deluxe Knife Sharpening System with 70, 120, 280 and 600 grit diamond hones. I thought I got good results using this system since I could keep a constant angle. I was told that this is not a good way to sharpen knives and I should go with something like a water stone in a 4000 and 8000. What do I really need???? I'll go out and get what I need but I don't know what to look for. I want to have really sharp knives. I suppose I will have to practice using a non-fixed sharpening tool. Is that hard to get good at it, let alone to master it?,
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Is the Lansky really not the way to go? I could see that even though it would appear that the angle is set, it's really not, especially when you get to the finer grits. Lansky only offer down to 2000 grit stones. ,
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I am looking forward to get going on my newest skill.
 
If you want to keep using you lansky just get more of the stones and maybe a strop. If you want to do it free hand I would advise DMT for the coarse stones and spyderco ceramics for the fine. Learning how to sharpen free hand takes time but IMO is well worth it because you will never be without a sharp knife no matter where you are.

Now the question is what direction do you want to go?
 
If you're satisfied with how the Lansky sharpens your knives I don't see the need in buying a new system. The Lansky system is popular and trusted; who told you that it was a bad way to sharpen knives??
 
Well not really a BAD way, just not as good as by hand, with a lot of practice. It was a dealer who I bought the Knives of Alaska Magnum. He suggested I try a wet stone in 4000 and 8000. They do not sell wet stones or any other really good sharpening tool there, so it's not like he wanted to sell me more stuff.
 
I'm with vcincent. If you are happy with the edges you get on your Lansky, then keep going, or suppliment your stones.

Good luck,

Doug
 
Are you planning to shave your face with your knives? That would be the only 'real' reason to take an edge to 8000 grit. While it's 'fun' to do it, there certainly is no reason any hunting knife or kitchen knife needs to be sharper than 1000. Wood carving tools would be sharpened to that degree as they are used to make 'push cuts' but any slicer needs just a bit of 'tooth' to do its job.

While I personally don't like Lansky (but only because of its rods,) it will sharpen most blades shorter than 10 inches very well. If you want to go finer than your 600 grit stone, use some good sand paper or a strop loaded with silicon carbide followed by a strop loaded with chromium oxide or diamond paste.

Freehand sharpening is very nice. It's a great skill to have but it's NOT the way to get a perfect edge unless you have several hours to devote to it. Just take a look at any professional sharpening service. Do they freehand? Do they sharpen to 8,000? No to both. The use clamped, guided sharpening systems and take the edge to (commonly) 800 or 1000 grit.

If you really want perfection, get the EdgePro system, complete with the polishing tapes. This will allow you to set ANY ANGLE you want, sharpen ANY LENGTH BLADE, take the edge to 10,000 grit (EdgePro's polishing tapes only go to 3000 or 4000 but you can purchase sheets of the stuff made by 3M that go to 10,000 and use that just as easily,) and give you these results in a matter of 15 minutes.

Freehand sharpening is fun, and a good skill to have. But for a perfect edge quickly, on a lot of knives, EdgePro. Your Lansky is a very good runner-up. Just get some finer stones or polishing tapes.

Stitchawl
 
stitchawl said:
If you really want perfection, get the EdgePro system, complete with the polishing tapes. This will allow you to set ANY ANGLE you want, sharpen ANY LENGTH BLADE, take the edge to 10,000 grit (EdgePro's polishing tapes only go to 3000 or 4000 but you can purchase sheets of the stuff made by 3M that go to 10,000 and use that just as easily,) and give you these results in a matter of 15 minutes.

Freehand sharpening is fun, and a good skill to have. But for a perfect edge quickly, on a lot of knives, EdgePro. Your Lansky is a very good runner-up. Just get some finer stones or polishing tapes.

Stitchawl
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:thumbup::thumbup: Edge-Pro all the way!

www.edgeproinc.com
 
Course if you don't have the $200+ to spend on an edgepro, you can do what I did and get a Sharpmaker... :D

It's not as good as the edgepro for sharpening tons of knives, but it's the easiest to set up and take down.

.:edit:.

Maybe it's just me, but after watching all the steps to go through on the Edge Pro (http://www.edgeproinc.com/sharpeningtips.html) it seems a bit of a hassle. I'm perfectly happy with my sharpmaker for now. Maybe if I decide I need every single kitchen knife reground to 10 degrees inclusive I'll invest. :)

If you've got the cash to spend on it, and you've got a bunch of knives, go for it. If not, go for the Sharpmaker or something similar. If you're really cheap, grab one of those Lansky Turnbox's. Pretty good value for your money.
 
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Josh K said:
Course if you don't have the $200+ to spend on an edgepro, you can do what I did and get a Sharpmaker... :D

It's not as good as the edgepro for sharpening tons of knives, but it's the easiest to set up and take down.

.:edit:.

Maybe it's just me, but after watching all the steps to go through on the Edge Pro (http://www.edgeproinc.com/sharpeningtips.html) it seems a bit of a hassle. I'm perfectly happy with my sharpmaker for now. Maybe if I decide I need every single kitchen knife reground to 10 degrees inclusive I'll invest. :)

If you've got the cash to spend on it, and you've got a bunch of knives, go for it. If not, go for the Sharpmaker or something similar. If you're really cheap, grab one of those Lansky Turnbox's. Pretty good value for your money.
Click to expand...

Josh, I agree with you 100%! The EdgePro is a bother to set up, clean up, and take down. And it costs a hell of a lot more than the Sharpmaker! And the Sharpmaker works very, very well. I keep one set up in the kitchen all the time for quick touch-ups. Even my wife, who is frightened of knives, will sharpen her knives using the Sharpmaker, simply because all she has to do is hold the handle and slice down the rods a few times. Just like cutting a tomato. It works. Period. And... if you have no need for what the EdgePro can do for you, save your money. Tools are only worth their price if you need them. Me... I need the versatility of the EdgePro for many of my tools. The Sharpmaker just doesn't do what I need it to do for them. It does for my kitchen knives so it lives in my kitchen and I use it there myself. I use my EdgePro for my other knives that require different geometries, but between you and me, if the knife has the same edge angle as the Sharpmaker, and doesn't need to be sharpened to 4,000 grit, I'd just as soon use the Sharpmaker to sharpen it. Less hassle. If the blade has a 12 degree bevel and is used for wood carving and needs to be sharpened to 4,000 grit I use the EdgePro. Hey, there was a time when I was satisfied with sharpening my boy scout knife on the curb... It did the job I needed. Some people are only satisfied with sharpening using a Tormek belt! We all have different needs.

Stitchawl
 
Mark1967 said:
Thanks very much for the input. I will do that. It will be cheaper too.
Click to expand...

If you are getting decent results with your Lansky, I would suggest adding a leather strop along with some stropping compound. You might be surprised just how sharp your knives can get by using one.
 
stitchawl said:
you can purchase sheets of the stuff made by 3M that go to 10,000 and use that just as easily
Stitchawl
Click to expand...

I do have the EdgePro and am running low on the sticky polishing paper. Where do you get the high grit sticky 3M?

Thanks!
 
Well Mark1967, by now you should realize that your question is like "What's the best knife?" or "What's the best caliber?" Everybody has an opinion. My advice would be - don't buy anything. Read a lot about sharpening. Define your goal. Figure out what you enjoy doing. Research that before you make a move.

When I was in Colombia, the locals all carried machetes (mostly Collins). They did everything with them. They sharpened them on the curbs and sidewalks.
 
While you're researching (which is excellent advise btw), look into the paper wheels offered for sale here by richard j. I have yet to find anything better.
 
i dont sell the wheels, i just tell people about them. i use them because they work and i havent found anything else that compares to the edge you can get. in the time it takes a person to work up a burr on one side by hand, i'm switching from one wheel to the other. so far this knife is the sharpest one i have done on the wheels. http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=51941310
here is a link to a thread on the paper wheels. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=578787
 
Eeyore1 said:
I do have the EdgePro and am running low on the sticky polishing paper. Where do you get the high grit sticky 3M?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I don't! :)
I get the plain 3M polishing paper and use a regular white glue stick, the kind sold for paper. The stuff washes right off of the metal blank when I'm finished with it. Just be sure not to overload the blank or you'll get some bumps. A light touch with the glue stick will hold the polishing paper very well. I buy large sheets of the stuff for just a few dollars in the local home center and cut it to size as I need it. I suppose if you wanted, you could also use a spray adhesive on the back of the paper instead. It's actually plastic, so the spray wouldn't penetrate. But I find that the glue stick works for me. :thumbup:


Stitchawl
 
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