What do I need for stock removal?

topgunpilot20

topgunpilot20

Joined
Oct 21, 2003
Messages
120
I'd like to try to make a blade using the stock removal method. I've never done this before and may only try it once. what are the bare minimum tools i need for a stock removal project and how cheap can i get them? i don't have anything big planned, just a small fixed blade. i may only try this once, so i don't want to break the bank. thanks for your help and i'm sorry if this has been beaten to death.
 
Really all you need is a pair of c-clamps, a file, a work bench and the patience of Job. I did a sgian dubh with nothing more than these items. For hafting, I think I used a screw dirver to bore the wettened core out of a small antler drown then set it w/ 2-ton epoxy and poured a pewter guard onto it. I spent alot of time draw filing that thing. Was a pain in the but, but I did get the technique down.

Tim
 
I agree with Tim but would like to make one addition. I recomend purchasing the book How To Make Knives by Loveless and Barney. This is a great book and has a section on making knives with handtools that will be of great help to you.
Tom
 
thanks for the info. here's what i do have (should have said this before): a wheel grinder, a dremel tool, hand held power drill, hack saw, file, and other common hand tools. i wouldn't mind picking up a cheap belt sander; how much could i get one for that would be decent enough for stock removal?
 
topgun,

If you can still find 'em, Sear's makes a nice 1hp, 3 wheel, 2 x 42 grinder. But I'd wait. Make a few knives first.

For your hacksaw, the high tension models with a bimetal blade are great - very fast cutters.

If you buy some ATS 34 1.5" by 1/8", you can make a very nice knife with files and sand paper. Start with a 3" hunter or bird and trout.

I would suggest you send it out for heattreating.

Steve
 
Sando,
How about that earthquake? I am wondering why you listed ATS 34? Is it the easiest to work with? I bought a bunch of 01 thinking that it was the easiest to work with. I know the H/T is much different, is it easier to file? or just better steel?
 
mattd,

me no be no 01 expert.

But for us hacks (not using automated cutters and such) there isn't enough difference in working annealled steels to worry about. I've done 1095, 52100, D2, S30V, ATS-34. At least with those steels and working with handtools I know you can make a knife with any.

The reason for ATS-34 is you can send it out for heattreat to any number of places. Whereas I couldn't find any place to do oil steels. 01 you can do at home, but for a first knife I feel you're better off sending it out. One less thing to worry about.

Also, ATS-34 makes a nice knife, takes a nice finish, etc. But the main reason (PERSONAL OPINION) is sending out for heat treating.

Of course if you're up for home heattreating go for it!

Steve

The earthquake was fun. Too far away for the neat 'JOLT' feeling you get when you are right on top of them.

Odd thing is it started up an antique clock we have that hasn't run in years. Strange things earthquakes.
 
The book I mentioned in the above post also has good information on steel. Stay with the O-1 for starting, it is a good choice. I would stay with the hand tools for now and if you have to get a power tool get a bench model drill press.
Tom
 
Sando,
thanks for answer. Good plan.

I work in Paso Robles and live in cambria so I am really tired of this earthquake stuff. I did get to see Arny today, the airport in near where I work. He's pretty wierd.

$50 knife shop is a good book. Even though it costs $20 so it should be called $30 knife shop or the $70 knife shop.:p
 
Originally posted by mattd

$50 knife shop is a good book.
Click to expand...
Excellent suggestion. It is written by Wayne Goddard and he seems to know a thing or two about knives ;)
 
May only make one ha ha ha there is no way you can make just one no more than you can just eat one potato chip. I work as a millwright at a steel mill and had alot of free time on my hands. One dat whike bumbing around the shop I saw a piece of scrap steel laying on the floor. I picked it up and said to my self why not make a knife. So I went to my locker got out a few files and a C-clamp and went in to my shanty I clamped the steel to the table and started fileing for 2 hours. the next day I went to barns and nobble and bought robert loveless book. 3 weeks later I had a pretty nice looking knife. and since that day I picked up that piece of steel I can not get knife makeing out of my mind.
 
Mattd

Even though it costs $20 so it should be called $30 knife shop or the $70 knife shop.
Click to expand...

hahahahhahahahahhahahahahhahahahhahahah

Too funny.

Steve

If you even get about 100 miles north, look me up.
 
Stick around this forum a bit and you will learn volumes. Having said that, YOU ALSO NEED TO GET OFF THIS DABBLAMED COMPUTER AND MAKE SOME KNIVES. This "can be" the biggest time waster of all.

I find myself looking at this thing too much sometimes. I don't get anything done that way.

Craig
 
Top Gun...

okay, if we wish to make one knife , and do this on the cheap,,,then...

First you have to decide what type of steel to use?...if you go with a carbon steel like 5160 from a car leafspring?, then you may need to come up with a way to make the steel a bit thinner..and a belt sander could do that for around $100.00

However if you order some steel from a knife maker supply thingy, then all you need to do is come up with a way to cut the design of your knife out, then place the edge bevels.

Now you could just drill a bunch of drill holes in the steel around the knife design, then use a jigsaw and connect the dots....or,

if you have a power hand saw,,,like a skillsaw, then you can get one of them steel cutting blades, it will be only a few bucks$ and it will allow you to cut away all of the extra steel from your design...I use a saw blade like that to do my stock removal.one blade lasts and lasts...

The bench grinder you have now willo also allow you to do most of the early work,,,but when you are ready to place the edge on your knife, you have to decide how much work you want to do by hand,,,,you "can" use a file,,,it "will" work,,,but you have to be able to file on this blade for a long time...

I got a 1X30 inch belt sander, and it worked for me even on my bigger blades like the Bat'leth in my photo at the left.(see photo of belt sander at my website - http://daqotahforge.tripod.com/klingonblades/id59.html )

I would have to say that the fastest and easyest way I have learned how to do stock removal is with the steel cutting blade on my power saw.


Now for another question you will need to think about,,,,a knife is more than just any chunk of pointy steel...

A true knife is a steel that has been heat-treated to take and hold a good sharp edge.

Have you thought about the heat-treating?... Some steels you may use can be Heat-treated by yourself , but other steels will need to be sent to someone else...both steels will take a few bucks to heat treat whatever way you decide.

What I have learned about making the few knives I have made so far is this:..Knife Making is actually 3 different things all lumped into one thing. First there is the Working with the steel stuff you have to learn
Then there is the Making the Handle stuff you have to learn.
Then there is the Making the Sheath stuff you have to learn...and few of the things you learn from one, will be of any use with the others....

good luck
 
*pulls collar*

Ya see up here in Nu Hampsha, we make knives a dif'rint way! All ye has to do is git yeself a hunka steel, and a mineral block them cowz likes ta lick. Then ya lick that there steel yeself until ye gits that pattern that way ye likes it, and rub summa that mineral block on it and lay it out where the cows kin git to it. Afore long ye'll have yeself a real fine knife... hollow-ground, too if ye do it right! Just be careful ye don;t leave out that steel where a goat kin git to it, cuz them buggers will eat the durn thing!
 
Originally posted by jhiggins
*pulls collar*

Ya see up here in Nu Hampsha, we make knives a dif'rint way! All ye has to do is git yeself a hunka steel, and a mineral block them cowz likes ta lick. Then ya lick that there steel yeself until ye gits that pattern that way ye likes it, and rub summa that mineral block on it and lay it out where the cows kin git to it. Afore long ye'll have yeself a real fine knife... hollow-ground, too if ye do it right! Just be careful ye don;t leave out that steel where a goat kin git to it, cuz them buggers will eat the durn thing!
Click to expand...

Darn goats! We got the same problem with 'em down here!

Craig
 
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