What Do I Need To Do Different

D

docmott

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Dec 10, 2022
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I’m going to use some 1075 Steel. So far most of the knives I’ve made are out of 1095. Is the heat treat process the same? And what about quenching? And tempering
 
1075 needs a little more heat. 1425-1475°F for 1095. 1475-1485°F for 1075.
The rest is the same.
Quench in fast oil like Parks#50
Temper at 400-450°F for two hours, twice.
 
so still the same as far as losing magnetic feel? I use a wood fired forge. no temp gage. color about the same as 1095? must be maybe a little yellow?
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thanks doc
 
If you are doing it by eye in a wood fired forge just do it like you did 1075. You don't have any real control over the heat.

Kudos to you for using your oast style bread/pizza oven for a forge as well as tempering oven, but temp control is probably iffy. Try non-magnetic plus a shade brighter. The color should be a light cherry red, but out in the daylight it can be very hard to tell the colors. You may want to forge at night when it is much more accurate to judge color by eye.
For the quench. For tempering do 400-450°F and hope that that frying thermometer is accurate.

You say that running a HT oven would kill you, but your rates are only three times mine. At Hawaii prices a 3500watt HT oven would cost a tad over $1 an hour to run. A full HT program for stainless steel would cost around $4. For 1095 it could be as low as $1.
 
Ok, I'll check my KW rate im on the island of Molokai. we have 2 GMC 1271 generators that run 24-7, gas is $5.75. I have a good thermometer for the oven, things were a mess before I installed it. I never knew I could get it so hot. good idea to HT at night and I read that the quench temp for the oil should be 140dg. I try to do about 8 at a time and once I get rolling it goes pretty fast.
thanks for the info!!
 
Oh the forge is a 5gl propane tank cut in half and I have compressed air hooked to it. it takes a bit to get the air controlled right and you need to kinda adjust it as you add wood. im going to add more rock to it to raise the hight of the flames. also I think if the knife is too close to where the air in introduced it kind cools it?
 
docmott said:
Oh the forge is a 5gl propane tank cut in half and I have compressed air hooked to it. it takes a bit to get the air controlled right and you need to kinda adjust it as you add wood. im going to add more rock to it to raise the hight of the flames. also I think if the knife is too close to where the air in introduced it kind cools it?
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Hey D docmott , email me or text me at 412-726-8610, shockey01@gmail.com, or discord @Shockey#2400. I just put my old website back up for a second if you wanted to read it -- https://www.veraxknives.com I'm uh. So in a sentence, I'm a pretty smart guy and I do not like the internet or the people on it but if you want someone to sit down and actually spend the time to explain the physics and chemistry bs behind why everyone is saying what they are, and you really want to know(it seems like it), I pick people on here cause obviously I can't help everyone but. I'm well known on here and will be banned (FYI, Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith , Spark Spark I'm debating about filing a CD just so you idiots understand the law and scare the piss out of you, but anything further will be contained in a legal sheet of wood. Enjoy annoying someone with money). I have helped others on here that I can't name over this but you can confirm that once you contact me. I live 10 minutes from Larrin Thomas and have the same equipment. Not the same knowledge however! (As far as I know)

I read books, not the internet.
 
docmott said:
Oh the forge is a 5gl propane tank cut in half and I have compressed air hooked to it. it takes a bit to get the air controlled right and you need to kinda adjust it as you add wood. im going to add more rock to it to raise the hight of the flames. also I think if the knife is too close to where the air in introduced it kind cools it?
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You have.... a LOT. That you need to change to do this right. Ill just say that. I can not promise any financial help or anything like that -- please do not think because I did with others that means anything. It doesn't.

Edit: but I will try my best to do everything in an. "as cheap as possible but not problematic"
 
The quench should be 120°F for regular oils. Parks #50 is used at room temp.

If doing multiple blades check the oil temp after the second blade. It can climb a lot. At 140°F it starts being too hot to effectively quench a blade. A good method of dropping the temp is to put a frozen water bottle in the oil and swirl it around. It will drop the temp 10 degrees quickly.
 
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