What do I need to get started? Is there a sticky?

M

Maelstrom78

Joined
Sep 21, 2013
Messages
1,574
Hi all,

I've cranked out and finished knives but have no sheath work to date. I'm itching to get started but have the (no doubt) normal confusion over what I need to get going. I can't just keep walking around my yard carrying knives (although it keeps the neighbors from dropping by :) )

I don't mind buying decent quality if it saves me headaches and ends up with a better product in long run.

So far I know I need a:
-edge beveler
-various needles (sizes?)
-hole spacer pizza cutter thing (spacing?)
-Something to punch those holes, either a needle chucked in my drill press or something else that looks like Neptune's trident
-Some sort dye (what should I look for?)
-waxed thread
-edge burnisher
-cutting device (I was just going to use a utility razor)
-?
-?

So as you can see I am a wee babe in the woods for the sheathmaking. In my mind, the sheath makes the knife package as much as anything else. Plus you gain the skills to make leathercraft for a variety of other things. Pouches, Ipad/Kindle holder whatever.

Tandy seems high priced. Strigamort (also knows as Omega now) gave me a link to a site that looks to have nice high quality stuff goodsjapan.com
and I have a few places to buy leather from. It's the tools I am hung up on. I don't want to buy something useless.

Thanks for any help. I could use suggestions on the various sizes/grades for things as well. Since we don't have a newbie equipment sticky on the top of this page maybe we can turn this thread into one? That way you helpful folk could save some electrons and your fingertips by not having to type out the same thing over and over.

Thanks again!
 
Hey bud, welcome to the forum. :)

I'm not sure if I linked you to this thread, but it's the best resource I've found for new makers.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1139038

I think Jason covers everything you're asking about.

Tools I use most-

"Deluxe" stitch groover- goodsjapan

3 wheel over stitcher- Tandy/Hobby Lobby

Drill press with "doll" needle (largest one in multi pack) clipped in half- walmart

#2 Keen Edge beveler- Tandy

1mm Tiger/Ritza thread- etsy

John James harness needles (use whatever size is recommended by Tiger/Ritza) can't remember size- same vendor/etsy

Fiebings dyes, spirit or pro oil/local cobbler/ST Leather/Springfield Leather Company

Head knife- vintage Tandy/craft tool/ebay

Nylon Bone Folder- Tandy/SLC/anywhere that sells em

Fiebings Tan Kote (same place as dye)

Cutting mat & beeswax Johannes fabric

Graph paper/bendable curve thingy/pencils- Hobby Lobby

Thin plastic 3 ring binders/flexible cutting mats, both for making templates of successful designs (always make a template if there's any chance you'll make another of the same style sheath!)- wherever

I'm sure I'm forgetting a few things. A lot of the stuff I use is just stuff that trickled over from when I started. There are 10 different ways to do everything (at least!) so don't feel like you have to buy or use any one thing/brand/vendor. If you have a tax id you can sign up for free elite/gold pricing at Tandy/SLC. If you have a tax id AND a BoE # you can sign up for a wholesale Weaver account.

Notes on vendors-

Tandy/SLC. Try to buy on sale! SLC is okay for dyes, Tandy sells proprietary dye (eco-flo) and most people prefer Fiebings.

Tractor Supply. Good if you are in a pinch and need Chicago screws. They also carry Fiebings Neatsfoot by the quart at reasonable cost (buy pure Neatsfoot).

ST Leather. Great for liquids and some other stuff. The lady is a little hard to work with. They don't have a merchant site, so you'll need to order by phone/fax or email. I'd recommend the two latter.

Goodsjapan. Pay the nominal fee for expedited shipping. It does take longer than other places, but quality is high.

Hope that helps a little. Again, there are many vendors. There is value in buying all from one place, but you may save a few bucks by buying from a few. Shipping can be a killer though.
 
If you are interested in hand stitching by forming your holes with an awl, rather then drilling them on a press, then Al Stohlman's book "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather is indispensible.

His "Craftool Tech Tips" book offers a wealth of ideas and information on tools and techniques for tooling leather. I highly recommend this.

Edited to add:

You can easily get by with using a utility knife. This is basically all that I use. Save some money in the beginning and use the utility knife. If you find you want something different in the future, then look into a head knife or other specialty blade.

Mike L.
 
^^^this^^^
That book is a treasure trove of information

seconded on the venerable utility knife. I have two Stanley versions that are over 20 years old and still going strong. Learn how to sharpen them and the blades last for months. Small investment and stays inexpensive and usable for a very long time. If you ask right, some stores use these blades and throw them out when dull, months of usable blade still there, some places will give you a lifetime of cutting for free.
 
Dave, think I found some Guinea pigs for your head knife pass-around. :p

Seriously though, Dwayne has probably cut miles of leather with a utility knife so I can't fault that. I still use mine from time to time for certain things and I believe sharpening the blades is a fantastic idea. My biggest gripe was that they were just too dull.

If you get the books, grab Cases vol. 1 as well. I have all of these books and they really are worth the money if you study them. Sooo many great tidbits on every page.
 
Yep, I have found very few utility blades that were sharp enough right out of the box, most need a tune up. I found much to my chagrin a while back that they make a rounded end "safety" blade. Whats it supposed to do? Cut you less when you slip?? Dont get me started on those self retracting knives, just as silly. :p
 
A utility knife with removable blades can and will get you by, but there is a definite reason professional leather workers, saddle makers, boot makers etc. use a round knife or a head knife. I have found through experience that push cutting with a round knife is much easier and infinitely more accurate. Pull cutting seems to lend itself to more over cut mistakes and edges which are not 90 degree perpendicular, particularly through thick or tough leather.

To each his own, but I would advise you investigate a good round knife or head knife, give it a trail run and then make your decision. The learning curve is really no more than with a utility knife. The difference is just getting used to push cutting vs pull cutting.

Paul
 
Good point about the 90° cut. I assume it gets better with experience, but I had problems getting a nice square cut. With the dull factory edge I was always trying to get through 8/9oz with a single pass, but I found it to be a pain. Cutting twice can leave a pretty nasty edge. The head knife that I use leaves a nice burnished edge. Push cutting is much nicer *for me*.

One thing about a head knife, unless you buy a good custom you'll likely need to put a new edge on it. Mine came sharp enough to easily slice paper and shave arm hair. I thought it was okay, but decided to make the edge more acute and it made a profound improvement. There is absolutely a learning curve for sharpening a head knife though. If you are used to sharpening knives and tools it helps, but it is still a different deal. Once you learn (and this is true with every aspect of using the knife) it'll become a tool that you'll probably love. In terms of pride in ownership and use the head knife (for me) has no equal.

As inexpensive as my knife was ($50) it's at the top of my list of favorite tools.

I've noticed (not speaking of anyone in particular) that people get in a groove with their way of doing things. I speculate that we are like this because once we've found a way that works well enough we stick with it. The problem is that there may be a way (or tool) that works better. It's not my business how people do things, but speaking for myself, it's important to keep an open mind and try different things. It's hard with tools because they cost money and a purchase that doesn't work out is a legitimate concern. Still, when a method or tool has a big following I'm willing to take the risk. :)
 
I've never used a round knife or head knife .
They must be good because some clever people here champion them .
I don't cut enough leather to need a specialised tool - knife , but I understand and respect those that do .
My simple little fixed blade Tina knife cuts like a laser , and a couple of swipes over my stone followed by a few more swipes on my Steel before I start a project is no hardship to me . In fact I enjoy making sure my leather knife is at maximum sharpness .

Here is a picture of my " old faithful " :)

f0a26ffdb4299d3f0610cb7c0dcb6ce4_zps48fee96e.jpg


Ken
 
Ken, that reminds me of one of my wood carving knives.

XpLbjrY.jpg


Works very well for cutting straight lines. You are much better than me at cutting curves with a straight blade, that's for sure! :)
 
As you guys have seen, I have been making kydex sheaths and stuff for a while, and always wanted to get into leather. I like leather better than kydex. After looking around this sub-forums for a while, I finally bought a handstiching tool kit. Stuff should be here this week. I am going to try my hand at a few small sheathes, and maybe a simple wallet. I have a few questions though. I think a basic bushcraft style pouch sheath, squared bottom, with a folded over loop is going to be my first attempt.

The groover- Do you make a groove and then use the overstich wheel buy running it in the groove?

Adhesive- do you guys use any adhesive?

What do you think is easier? A pouch sheath, made by folding over the leather and stiched on one side or one that is made by stiching the entire perimeter?

Belt loops- what do you find to be the most robust style of belt loops? What is the easiest loop to make?

Thanks!
Riz
 
Riz2530 said:
As you guys have seen, I have been making kydex sheaths and stuff for a while, and always wanted to get into leather. I like leather better than kydex. After looking around this sub-forums for a while, I finally bought a handstiching tool kit. Stuff should be here this week. I am going to try my hand at a few small sheathes, and maybe a simple wallet. I have a few questions though. I think a basic bushcraft style pouch sheath, squared bottom, with a folded over loop is going to be my first attempt.

The groover- Do you make a groove and then use the overstich wheel buy running it in the groove?

Adhesive- do you guys use any adhesive?

What do you think is easier? A pouch sheath, made by folding over the leather and stiched on one side or one that is made by stiching the entire perimeter?

Belt loops- what do you find to be the most robust style of belt loops? What is the easiest loop to make?

Thanks!
Riz
Click to expand...

Hey Riz. The link that I posted will cover pretty much everything you need to make a great pouch sheath. But I'll try to answer a couple of questions.

Do your groove on the front then add a little water to the groove. Use your wheel to mark your spacing and do your holes. The back may be puckered if you use a needle and press. Use something hard to flatten the holes on the back, then groove over the holes on the back.

Use contact cement. I use Weldwood (prefer gel formula), but many use Barge. Weldwood works very well and is cheap/easy to find. Follow instructions.

For me, a pouch is easier, but a stacked sheath is usually better fitting. I prefer a pouch if I'm doing a dangler. A "butterfly" pouch has the benefits of both excellent fit and ease of construction. I recommend a pouch for your first. Really it boils down to what the knife needs. If it's a bowie with a big guard, obviously it's not going to fit in a pouch that is designed to have part of the handle inside the sheath (I've seen it done, but I, personally, don't like the look). A bushcraft knife with few handle features is a natural fit for a pouch. I suggest looking at knives similar to yours and looking at the sheaths people use with them.

Easiest loop is a fold over. If you are doing a deep carry pouch, sew the loop down just above where the ricasso is inside the sheath. This gives you good balance.

In the link Tal took a bunch of tips and tricks and presented them in a very easy way to follow. He also made videos that total around 4 hours I think. It really should be moved here and made a sticky. Seriously.
 
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