What do you expect your survival knife to do? (long, random thoughts)

tknife

tknife

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Mar 18, 1999
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The subject of the "best" survival knife comes up all the time. Many people point out a lot of great knives, from inexpensive factory knives to top doller customs. But I wondered why certain knives are chosen over others? What qualities make a knife worthy, and what should it be expected to do? Since I asked, I'll give my opinion on the subject.
First, I want something that cuts well. A knife is of no use if it doesn't cut. It should also hold an edge reasonably well, while also being relatively easy to resharpen in the field. (I realize these two things are tradeoffs, but there is a happy medium) Strength is also a concern. There are many fine knives that cut like lightsabers, but may not hold up to added stress in a wilderness emergency situation. Handle comfort is also very important. If it causes undue stress and fatigue, it's not very efficient. If it becomes slippery, too hot, too cold, or brittle, it could be a huge liability. This line of thinking leads me to construction. Some fine knives have seemingly minor flaws that may turn into nightmares in the field. This especially goes for the sheath. I will never understand why so many great knives come with the worst possible sheaths. Even the ones that are good, could be better and more functional. These things are always on my mind when looking for a new knife to take into the woods.
I like a large, heavy blade that I can chop with, or use with a baton for splitting. I want to be able to do light hammering, light prying, and light digging (if nothing else is available to use) I want to be able use it as a weapon or attatch it to pole. It needs to also be a functional field dressing blade. What do you think?
 
I want my knife to be a tool more than anything else, and that means cutting. I like knives that have relatively thin blades under 6 inches. It has to be able to do fine work that requires a sharp instrument. Other tasks can usually be done with field expedients, but a sharp blade is hard to substitute.

Some nice qualities:
- stainless blade
- sharpener along with
- smoothish handle
- concealability

One thing that I would love, but have never seen adressed adequately, is the ability to get through lots of smallish (up to 2 inch diameter) green wood. Big knives are too clumsy for me, and I don't like serrations on the main edge. Maybe someone will put more aggressive Spyderco-type serrations on the first 3 inches of the back of the blade. . .

Scott
 
I to could go into great detail about my many thoughts on the perfect survival knife,however I have come to what I feel is the best knife to have.The best knife to have is of course tha knife you have on you.But what does that really mean?Many people like real big knives,and thats OK,but typically you do not have that knife on your side but instead it may be lashed to a backpack,an ATV rack,the jeep floor board or in the canoe bottom.What happens if you wreck the canoe,ATV,Jeep or have to ditch your ruck in a ravine or river?Then all you have on you is your best gear.A medium sized,high ride kydex sheathed knife is whats best when considering these scenario's.For me the reason for this is that its always on my side and is a low drag setup.It also stays tight to my side not getting hung up in the bush or not allowing me to get caught in any underwater catchers if I ditch the canoe.A 4-6 inch knife is unlikely to be separated from you like a 10 inch bowie.No matter if I go out of camp to use the bathroom its with me(you never know),pair this with a small add on pouch with gear and you can survive a couple of nights no problem.The knife I currently carry is a Busse Satin Jack witha high grind symm edge and a Noeldechen kydex rig.Very clean very simple,low profile,tough and efficient,no bells or whistles.
 
I like marsupials take on this. There is plenty of knives that I would prefer (7-9inch super sharp stainless chopper). But if I look at my travels/adventures month by month and identify when and where a survival situation is most likely to arise. Then realisically consider what I am most lilely to have on my body wtshtf - It comes down to a smallish fixed blade for me.
 
My "survival" knife has to be able to build a shelter,chop at least a night's worth of wood, and provide protection for me without any worry of failure. Short list but it encompasses a lot of use and even a little abuse depending on the where and when of a situation. Digging, splitting, cutting,prying, and even hammering are all things a knife would be asked to do. Sharpening and corrosion resistance aren't to aweful high on my list of priorities as I would figure death or rescue would happen long before an entire blade rusted away and Rocks are everywhere so sharp is easy :)
 
I do agree with Marsupial that a survivaql knife should be readily carried. Personally, my upper limit is a 7 inch blade.

If you're looking for a specific suggestion, I would say the Ka-Bar next generation fighting/utility knife. It meets virtually all of the criteria you listed. It's thin enough to cut and slice effectively, sturdy enough for light chopping, splitting wood, etc. The newest version is 440A steel, epoxy coated. This makes it virtually maintenence free as far as corrosion goes, tough enough to withstand abuse, fairly easy to resharpen and reasonably able to hold its edge.

The grip is by far superior to other knives out there, IMO, much better than, say the Fallkniven A1 or the SOG SEAL knife. However grip is mostly just personal preference and I suggest you handle several to find what's best for you. The Ka-bar has a neutral balance which makes it useful for delicate work in addition to light chopping, not as good for heavy-duty chopping. It comes with a great Kydex sheath.

Disadvantges of the Ka-Bar are a narrower tang which helps with the balance, but makes it not as strong for prying. The steel butt-cap works nice for pounding, though. The Ka-bar is has a 7 inch blade, and as such is at the upper limit of "comfortable carry". I admit that sometimes I do have it strapped to my pack instead of me. The extra length is an added bonus when it comes to chopping, though.

Another good choice might be the buck nighthawk, except for the poor sheath. Otherwise the knife (6 inch blade) is great.

Many on the Forums swear by Strider. I suppose they are very durable. And I admit my opinion may be biased as I have never actually used a Strider. To me it doesn't seem worth $300+ when the Ka-Bar at $98 does just fine, except as a prybar. Just going by looks, the cord-wrapped metal handles in the Striders look fairly uncomfortable. Don't know as I've never handled one, though.

The Ka-bar is not just a "survival knife" I use it for all camp chores from slicing food to splitting wood.

Good luck! I'm sure you'll find many differing opinions out there. It all boils down to what works best for you.

Dan
 
Gotta agree with Bill Siegle on this one. I've had knives snap in two in the woods, doing tasks that should have been very doable. Kinda changed my outlook on things...
 
I'm relatively new to the utilization of knifes as a working tool. My experience largely stems from the use of knifes in the military. For me a survival knife must do everthing that has been mentioned so far and be confidence inspiring. For example, I have had experience with a Ka-Bar and a issue M3, years ago. The M3 was a poor chopper, failure as a tool to pry open crates but as a fighting knife it was fine. The Ka-Bar on the other hand was a real implement. You could use it for anything and although lackluster it would provide. I never doubted that Ka-Bar. I expect that out of a survival knife; it had better cut, chop, pry, split wood with or without assistance; hammer and be easy to sharpen. What makes a great knife great, to me, is function and complete confidence. Utility, dude, utility.
 
All great points. I was not looking for a specific knife, just others opinions on how a knife should perform. I know that the best survival knife is the one you are carrying. That's what I always think of when heading out for a weekend. There is ALWAYS at least a large SAK on a lanyard in my pocket (Along with a mini-kit). Usually a stout sheath knife on my belt (With anywhere from a four to six inch blade) And a big chopper or hatchet (and maybe a saw) on my pack or in the truck depending on what type of trip it is. I would never be too far away from my pack (Unless it was soemhow lost or I was forced to leave it behind) But if that were to happen, I would still have the means to survive.
 
I think there is a huge difference in using a knife to "survive" in the woods versus a planned outing in the woods (backpacking, hunting, trail maintenance, etc.). In survival, you don't have to chop all your firewood the same length! The valuable energy you expend to do this is frightfully wasted, especially if food is in short supply. Wittle some fuzz sticks, gather some tinder, make a fire, and drag something large onto it. When it burns in two, drag both pieces back to the center of the fire.

In survival you would have to make a shelter (assuming you can't find a suitable dug out, cave, windless gully or something). Again, chopping limbs to exact length is rarely needed.

Survival is just that, not planned living, not making your shelter a home. I have not found a knife over 7 or 8 inches necessary. A good 6 to 7 inch knife is all I've needed in a large knife; however, I always have a SAK, pocket tool, and a one hand folder on me at all times.

Bruce
 
What do I want my survival knife to do:

Cut things like seatbelts, rope, straps, leather, cloth...but also cut things like PVC pipes, plastic, rubber, thin metal, and wire.

It should be able to saw through hardwood and bamboo as well as aluminum, tin, and thin steel.

It should be able to turn a standard and a phillips screw.

It should be able to bend metal and wire, and tighten (or untighten) metal nuts and bolts.
It should also be able to crack edible nuts too.

It should allow me to alter and shape common items into new and useful items (like turning a bottle-cap into a fishing lure, or turning a nail into a fishing hook).

It should allow me to remove a cactus spine from my boot, a hook from the mouth of a barracuda, and an infected tooth from a persons mouth.

It should help me take apart a radio set or take apart a turtle without causing too much damage to what's inside.

In other words...it must be a Multi-Tool.

Good luck,
Allen.
 
What do you expect your survival knife to do? (long, random thoughts)
Click to expand...


Anything needed to insure my survival.

Including but not limited to:
-Food prep
-Shelter building
-Defending myself
-Hunting
-Woodworking(building tools out of wood etc.)
-Gathering and splitting firewood(when its raining you need to split to get wood dry enough to burn)
 
What Bruce said...... I will have to survive with what I have on me. That is always a SAK, a firestarter, a medium lockblade, and if I'm really out in the woods a 5-7" FB (UH153 Golden Spike 5", a Randall 1-6, or a KBar)(probably a firearm too). I think I will have to build a fire, let the fire burn the logs in two, build a shelter not a cabin, and find something to eat and drink if I didn't bring enough with me. If I want to chop I use an axe or tomahawk, I don't even own a multi-tool. Of course this is for Western NY, if I was flying over Alaska my kit would be bigger. I don't have any romantic notions about staying out there forever, I just want to survive to get back home. What worries me most is injury, but when you go alone you gotta be careful out there. ;)
 
I treat my survival knife like a PSK that straps to my belt. The one I use the most is an Air Force Survival Knife covered with bicycle inner tube. Under the rubber sleeve I have the following:

AAA Mini-Mag light (Light source, signal)
Sharpening stone
Yellow Mini Bic Lighter (hard to lose a yellow lighter)
Whistle (signal)
Compass (navigation)
Day/Night signal mirror (Signal, keep myself company)
Salt packets ( short term electrolyte replacement)
Alcohol wipe (sterilize)
Potassium Permanganate (water treatment, wound care)
Heavy Gauge needle and thread (Repairs)
Assorted Fish hooks (Fish or bird gathering)
50 meters dental floss (Multi use, fishing line)
Handle wrapped with #4 waxed line, covered by rubber sleeve (Trap construction)
1.5 meters parachute cord (Shelter construction, bowstring, multi-use)
Inner tube rubber (fire starter)
Brass Capsule
-10 200 mg Motrin (treat headache cause by fasting, muscle ache due to living in expedient shelter)
-Tube of cotton treated w/ Vaseline (fire starter)
-Sterile scalpel blade (perform minor surgery on self, been there done that)
-2 birthday candles (Light, fire starter, 30 min burn time each in still air!)
-5 waterproof “blue tip” matches (back-up fire source)

My logic is that the knife strapped to my waist is a redundant system to the things I normally carry in my pack. During normal activity I never need to get anything off the sheath and the knife is free to be used in the normal fashion. If for some reason the pack is lost overboard, stolen, or destroyed in a vehicle crash. I still have the knife strapped on to my belt.

The knife kit lacks a water container. Some suggest using a condom for this. I prefer the canteen & aluminum canteen cup also strapped to my belt. Besides here in Brazil a married man who carries a condom around only means one thing. Mac
 
Geoff,

The inner tube is in two pieces. The first is stretched up over the sheath and comes to just below the snap of the sharpening stone pouch. The second runs down over it overlapping the lower rubber sleeve by about an inch. I used to have it without the top piece but it got filled with silt once swimming a river. The way it is now the internal contents stay dry. I have a photo of this knife on the Shootersville.com's handguns board. I'll try and post a link to it.

This is the most practical way I've ever come up with to attach things to a knife sheath. It works for me. Mac
 
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