What do you guys think about putting a second bevel on thick blade?

G

greebozz

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Jun 30, 2006
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Hi I have a thick narrow blade and the edge bevel is at 12degrees and is getting rather large was wondering about putting a second bevel in at maby 5 degrees or alturnatly just grinding the sides of the knife, what would you guys suggest.
 
If I understand your post, you have a thick blade with an edge of 24 degrees included. I assume you're considering a second bevel (micro-bevel) of 5+ degrees per bevel, for a final edge bevel of 34 degrees included.

A 24 degrees included edge is not likely to hold up well for cutting dense materials or impact work. Adding the micro-bevel will certainly increase edge strength.

Adding the micro-bevels will provide these benefits:
- The edge-strength will be improved.
- Touch-up sharpening is fast and easy, since you're honing only the narrow micro-bevels.
- Tuning edge-strength is easier, since you're simply adjusting the angle of the micro-bevels.

Hope this helps!
 
IMO it depends on what you intend to use the knife for, and other specifics of the knife: blade steel and hardness, length, etc.

12 degrees per side is my "standard", starting profile for just about all my knives, from big choppers to light duty folders. My rule of thumb is that if the steel and heat treat can't handle this edge geometry with a small microbevel added, it probably isn't good enough for my purposes.

So that leaves your question about adding relief - taking the sides down to make the blade a full flat grind, I'm guessing. If you're using the knife on materials where you get a lot of binding and wedging, then this should give better performance. Since it sounds like you'd be removing a lot of metal, just be very careful to work slowly and not overheat the blade, assuming you'd be using a belt grinder. If you're going to do it by hand, be prepared for a lot of time in the workshop. :)
 
I think he is wanting to add a relief to the 12 degree primary because it is getting too wide. In this case working down the primary grind is definately an option but will take some time without power equipment.

-Cliff
 
Hi thanks for your replies, mine was not a very important post, just thinking aloud really. Just to be clear my bade is a strait V shape that I have sharpend alot, by second bevel I just mean take the sholders off the edge bevel if that makes any sence, I have just done that, no probs really think it will help it slice a little better.
 
It sounds like a typical scandinavian grind. They are commonly regound in that manner to reduce the binding effect of the shallow grind.

-Cliff
 
I just went through this. It will be hard to put a good bevel on high end steel. I tried to thin a VG-10 blade recently - GOOD LUCK! I ended up putting a much smaller bevel than I had originally imagined. I wore out an edgepro course benchstone and barely made a dent in my VG-10 Endura.
Get an extra course benchstone and a pot of coffee and be ready for some long work if you are playing with the good stuff.
 
I wore out an edgepro course benchstone and barely made a dent in my VG-10 Endura.
Click to expand...

Huh, I reprofiled a TOPS Armageddon and didnt wear out the stone that much.
 
CMSpeedy said:
I wore out an edgepro course benchstone and barely made a dent in my VG-10 Endura.
Click to expand...

You did something wrong. I've reprofiled everything from kitchen knives to ontario OKCS bayonets to CS Ghurka Kukri's with the same stone on my EP. Are you keeping your stones wet or putting too much elbow grease into it?
 
Hi Just found this that describes what is happening, have ground a second bevel and it is working well.

sharpen4.jpg
 
My stone was already over 3/4 gone and it finished the job. The Edgepro course don't last long when reprofiling good steel IMO. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but I don't think I am. From what I gathered VG-10 is EXTREMELY difficult to reprofile!! Some knife grinders won't work on hardened VG-10 - I could not find anyone, which is why I attempted myself. I don't know what steel you guy were working on, but I got my #$@ handed to me by a VG-10 Endura.

I'm not saying it can't be done, but it ain't easy.
 
VG-10 has a low grindability compared to the low allow carbon/tool steels, it actually grinds easy though compared to S30V/ZDP-189. Just buy a large coarse benchstone and do the rough shaping on that and save the Edge Pro for sharpening.

-Cliff
 
WOW, I can't imagine what it must be like to reshape an S30V blade!! Thanks Cliff, I was considering a large benchstone. What stones do you use?

I'm not giving up on this blade. It currently has a bevel at roughly 12 degrees per side. At that angle it goes halfway across the primary bevel. I currently gave up as it ate my course stone. Maybe I was using too much pressure.

This knife will have a thin profile when finished. At least 10 degrees with a 20 or 30 degree microbevel. I want to use this knife in the kitchen and with fish.
 
It gets worse, S30V grinds easy compared to S90V and that grinds easy compared to CPM-15V. I use a 200 grit waterstone for any shaping, it doesn't care if the steel is S30V or 1095, it chews through them all just as easily. It is so aggressive that unless I am careful when sharpening I will reprofile accidently. Thom has notes the x-x-coarse DMT is also extremely aggressive so that would be something to look into.

-Cliff
 
If you're goping to do very much of this kind of work, wouldn't a XX coarse diamond stone last a lot longer, and cut faster?:confused:

Ben
 
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