What do you guys use to thin blades on folders?

[matus]

Hi,

I have recently got a small Sebenza 21. As great as the knife is it did not arrive sharp and the edge bevel was quite a bit more than 40 deg. So I used my sharpmaker with CBN rods and after 1 hour of work I got it to 40deg. I am not too crazy about that. 40deg would be fine for micro bevel, but the edge bevel is rather wide so I would like to thin it further. Obviously - the sharpmaker is not the way to go (I do not blame it for that, it was simply not designed to remove larger amount of material).

I have a full setup of some of the best japanese water stones (Gesshin) and can use them reasonably well, but I do not want to risk getting some of the slurry inside the pivot for obvious reasons. Therefore I am looking for an alternative.

I am not quite ready to invest 100+ euro in some sharpening system (I had KME and gave it away when I got into kitchen knives), though I would consider something like DMT Diafold MagnaGuide as I could then also use the diafold free handed. I have heard (from the seller here in DE) that this guide should be able to go as low as 12deg. per side - that would be great, but I am not sure that is correct. Another option would be a s simple DMT stone (probably the coarse one). Simple diamond stone would be more flexible, but would make it much easier to put unnecessary scratches on the blade.

I would appreciate your input and experience. Thanks.

 

[Ken44]

I have a full setup of some of the best japanese water stones (Gesshin) and can use them reasonably well, but I do not want to risk getting some of the slurry inside the pivot for obvious reasons. Therefore I am looking for an alternative.

Just clean the pivot afterwards. The Sebenza is as easy to take apart as any knife I've seen.

 

[The Aflac Duck]

I might be wrong, but I think water stones won't work on a high-carbide steel like S35VN; mainly due to the vanadium carbides which are about 80+ HRC. Again, I might be wrong though. I don't have experience with them.

I would suggest using silicon carbide wet/dry sandpaper placed on a piece of glass. Start at about 320 grit and work your way up to 2000 grit and finish with some stroping action with aluminum oxide compound. However you can stop at 800 grit or less if you wish, I'd at least go to 800 personally.

Also, I would keep in mind that a more acute edge will be more fragile. This depends on how you use the knife though. I had my Sebenza around 25 inclusive, and found edge retention to be subpar. It would also roll/chip easily. I keep it around 35 inclusive now, and the difference is noticeable.

 

[fsatsil]

I can't speak for all water stones but the Shapton Pros have no problem sharpening S35VN.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Hi,

I have recently got a small Sebenza 21. As great as the knife is it did not arrive sharp and the edge bevel was quite a bit more than 40 deg. So I used my sharpmaker with CBN rods and after 1 hour of work I got it to 40deg. I am not too crazy about that. 40deg would be fine for micro bevel, but the edge bevel is rather wide so I would like to thin it further. Obviously - the sharpmaker is not the way to go (I do not blame it for that, it was simply not designed to remove larger amount of material).

I have a full setup of some of the best japanese water stones (Gesshin) and can use them reasonably well, but I do not want to risk getting some of the slurry inside the pivot for obvious reasons. Therefore I am looking for an alternative.

I am not quite ready to invest 100+ euro in some sharpening system (I had KME and gave it away when I got into kitchen knives), though I would consider something like DMT Diafold MagnaGuide as I could then also use the diafold free handed. I have heard (from the seller here in DE) that this guide should be able to go as low as 12deg. per side - that would be great, but I am not sure that is correct. Another option would be a s simple DMT stone (probably the coarse one). Simple diamond stone would be more flexible, but would make it much easier to put unnecessary scratches on the blade.

I would appreciate your input and experience. Thanks.

Since you're considering both a diamond hone and/or some sort of guide for it...

Look into something like a Dia-Sharp or one of their interrupted-surface 'block' hones in XC or Coarse grit, in the 6" x 2" size, and get yourself a DMT Aligner clamp to use with it. The double-sided Dia-Sharp in 6" x 2" size is available with XC and Coarse on opposite sides, and is very versatile for such jobs. Could also use something like DMT's 'Duo-Sharp' 8" hone in a Coarse/Fine combo. The larger 6" or 8" bench hones will greatly speed up the grinding, over using something like the Dia-Folds with the Magna-Guide setup. Those are nice sharpeners (I have a Magna-Guide & clamp), but for bigger grinding jobs, abrasive surface area RULES for speed.

(I've thinned my S30V large Sebenza more than once; and the last time, I used a 6" x 2" Dia-Sharp to do it, BTW.)


David