What do you look for in a custom knife?

L

Les Robertson

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When looking at a Custom/Handmade knife what do you look for?

Price is not an issue.

Im looking more for the "Technical" aspects of the knife.

This is open to all categories of custom knives.
 
In a word--"usability". Can I carry it, will it be comfortable, how will it perform in actual use, etc.? As such, I have little desire for fighters and daggers, but hunters, bowies (camp knives), and folders do interest me.
 
Good thread Les

Hope it stays on track

What I look for is the perfect example of what I like in a knife.

If it is a Bowie I try and find the piece that feels a certain way looks a certain way and above all things made of materials and constructed of in ways and materials that I have confidence in.

If it is a large fixed blade no matter how good it feels or looks if it is constructed with a stainless steel blade it is not for me (except Burt's laminated stuff)

In small blades and folders I do not mind stainless.

If it is a hunter I look for something not to fancy so I can use it and in a hunter I prefer a non stainless blade even though it takes more care. I believe carbon or damascus has better edge holding and for me ease of resharpening

In folders I do not like liner locks or frame locks and have been useing one with the Demko lock and I am fairly impressed

How a blade carries is very important to me but this has kinda become a mute issue with Pappy Long working with me to design sheaths that carry well for me.


I look for feel, quality of materials and fit and finish. Every now and then I will buy a knife I really do not plan on keeping if it is a deal or I can see a profit down the road

I am always looking for the perfect Bowie or fighter which I think is always around the next corner no matter how many great ones I have.

With hunting knives I have what I need and do not really keep searching for them

Bowies I like to be 9 1/2 to 10 1/2 on average

Fighters 6 to 7 1/2 for ease of carry

Hunters/skinners/capers 2 3/4 to 3 1/2
 
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Something unusual--a fresh approach to a standard fitment or mechanism.

Coop
 
In no particular order:

1) Functional design and execution - the design of the knife must be such that it would meet the requirements of its intended use, and it must be made is such a way as to be capable of performing its intended role. If it's not functional as a knife, it's not a knife that I'm interested in.

2) Aesthetics. Overall design must be pleasing to the eye. My eyes, in particular. I speak here of the sum total aesthetic impact of lines, grinds, proportions, materials and embellishments.

3) Fit and finish -and all they embrace. I don't require perfection, but my tolerance for flaws decreases as the price rises. Clean, crisp, symmetrical grinds, even plunges, flush fitment of guard to ricasso, flush fitment of handle to guard / ferrule (unless clearly designed NOT to be flush, in which case an even degree "proud" all the way around". Major pet peve - clean hand-rubbed satin finish. If it's a slipjoint - clean, smooth action, flush backpring in all positions (open, closed and half-stop, which I prefer) and a moderate "pull". I'm not interested in any nail-busting slippies that require grunting and sweating just to get them open.

4) Materials - from a design standpoint, the materials have to make sense. To use a (hopefully) absurd example - no orange G10 on a damascus quillion dagger. My preference almost exclusively is for natural handle materials - and I want to see a quality example of whatever is used regardless of the price. Even on a using knife. And especially on a presentation grade piece. I can't count the times I've seen a trashy piece of stag attached to an exceptionally nice damascus blade. Good wood beats bad stag guys, every time.

5) Handle design - very important to me. Ergonomics and aesthetics have to be right. If (particularly on a large knife) the knife feels like it wants to jump out of your hand, I'm not buying it. Comfort, blade retention, indexing all have to be addressed. A handle too short on a large knife is a surprisingly common problem. As are handles with all the thoughtful design elements of a broomstick (though you usually see this with newer makers only).

6) Blade. Makers, would you PLEASE put an edge on it like the buyer is about ot stake his life on the blade? Pretty please? Goes without saying that I expect it to be properly heat treated. Blade geometry, edge geometry, thickness and taper should all be as they should be for the design in question. Steel should be something that the maker is well familiar with.

7) Balance. Particularly on larger knives, this can be a deal breaker. It's also the biggest risk involved in buying a knife sight unseen unless you are well familiar with the maker's body of work. If the knife has all the lively feel of a lead pipe, count me out. As a general observation, newer makers tend to "overbuild" their knves, equating thickness and mass with strength and quality. A very wise maker once told me "Go to the ABS section and Blade, start at the back of the room (generally newer makers) and work your way to the front, examining the hunters and notice the difference in feel." No doubt about it - big, heavy, beefy, chunky and clunky were not to be found at the frint of the room with the likes of Fisk, Dean, Newton, Hancock, whose knives felt like high precision surgeon's scalpels in comparison.

Roger
 
Personally I prefer knives with giraffe bone handles and mokume bolsters. A titanium blade if possible.
 
The subject of custom knives, today, has pretty much gotten me worn-out-ski. So I try to look for the knives with the word "Warenski".

Best,

Bob Betzner
 
Hi Paul,

I've seen some of the knives that Lorien bought...his post doesn't surprise me in the least....:D
 
I look for quality...but it isn't simple to explain that, and you know that Les.

For folders I look for blade-to-handle ratio, fit, finish and prefer unique mechanisms-button locks, back locks, mid locks, front locks, lever locks....no brass, no nickel silver....classic lines, with some contemporary looks thrown in for flavor. I always consider resale value....as in-"will I lose money on this knife?"

I like sexy in folders or fixed blades

Fixed blades, again blade-to-handle ratio, don't like handles longer than 5 1/2" including guard, grinds must be even, fit and finish held to the top standards, comfortably contoured handles and spines gently rounded or peaked like the Japanese do with swords. Maker willingness to work with me on something special, so we both grow from the experience.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
In short, I just want the knife to be built according to my functional requirements especially in term of length and thickness as well as the choice of the materials for the blade, the handle and the sheath. The basic design normally is of the custom knife maker's with some possible enhancements here and there to sort of personalize the knife. Anyhow I would still let the custom knife maker to have a freedom in doing necessary changes while building the knife for me to ensure that the knife practically come out the best in appearance and performance :)

So far it works best with me and the custom knife makers that I've deals with. Here I would like to convey my highest appreciation and thankfulness to all the custom knife makers that I've deals with for their openness and willingness in discussing matters about my orders :thumbup:

mohd.
 
sheathmaker said:
Lorien, I think I can see your tongue planted firmly in cheek.

Paul
Click to expand...

I just couldn't resist:D. Hey I'm all for helping Les with his market research, but ya gotta bust the guy's balls from time to time! Les, you're a good sport:)


***

-reasonable price/value
-considered and thoughtful design, including spec and materials
-tight tolerances
-ergonomics including overall balance and mode of carry practicality, (sheath design, pocket clip design etc)
-a carefully finished edge
-reputation/ideology/principals/accessibility of the maker
 
Hi Lorien,

Actually Im doing research for an article. I know what I look for I am just curious what other collectors/users/investors/makers look for.

I appreciate all of the info.

Oh, and if growing up your family doesn't cure you of not being able to take some ribbing (my Dad did an excellent job of that). The US Army Infantry will definitely has the cure for you. :D
 
On fixed blades its important that the guard is not too big and clunky looking. This seems to be an area that otherwise nice knives loose my interest. Handles should not be too long or the blade will just look weird.

Makers name and rep is very important.
 
Well, I knew you had a motive from the start.............


Men are visual beasts...........how it looks is the most important thing (IMHO)
How it works is a VERY close second..........followed by how it feels, a very close second and a half!!!
 
Hi Tom,

The article is going in the KI Buyer's guide. Given there will be a lot of readers who aren't familiar with custom knives. I thought I would get a good cross section of what people look for.

As you can imagine I already have a pretty good idea of what custom knife buyers are looking for.

The answers on all 3 forums seem to be about the same.

My feelings are that custom knives are first and foremost...Visual...then Visceral.
 
Les Robertson said:
Im looking more for the "Technical" aspects of the knife.

This is open to all categories of custom knives.
Click to expand...

Been working with you for 22 years, Les. Nice to finally get to help educate you! :D

I look at a lot of details. Here are some:

1. Plunges on the left and right sides should be even when viewed from the edge. Years ago a very prominent ABS MS wrote in Blade that they should be within 1/32" of each other and there was a picture of one of his knives with plunges that fell within his tolerances. They should have been within .002" of each other! At least that's what Fred Carter taught me 25 years ago.

2. Hand finishes should have no out of the way strokes. I've seen award winners with P-poor hand finishes and I wondered if the judges were blind!

3. Grinds on both sides should be even and symmetrical. That's pretty easy on a bowie ground from edge to spine, but harder to hide when there is a grind line. If I happen to pick up a knife and see a chisel grind I just set it back down and walk away. Anybody can grind them! You never know if the grind line is off because there's nothing to compare it to on the other side. YMMV

4. Flow. Yes, that word is overused today. So much so that many people have no idea what it means, just that it's a cool word, and many knives described as having flow don't. The lines running from the blade to the handle, even if broken by a guard running across them, must be aligned to achieve good flow. If not you don't have flow. Simple as that.

5. With few exceptions, knives should be sharp. Plunging daggers and recreations of blunt edged swords don't have to be sharp, but other knives should. I've seen art level knives without sharpened edges even though the knife without the art would have been a working knife.

6. I'm an artist and appreciate a lot of different kinds of art knives. Sometimes, however, having spikes on the handle, no matter how cool they may look, just doesn't make sense. There should be some sort of logic to what goes on an art knife, even if it has to be looked for. Artist knifemakers should be able to explain why they've done what they did. Again, YMMV.

7. Finally. "soul". A knife should have soul. In most cases the more CNC and other machine work on a knife the less soul it has. The opposite is true. I can usually tell if a knife was made with machines or with a person's hands holding it. I can appreciate a few of the machine heavy knives, but most. . . no.

I've probably just made some people POed, but that's okay. I'll live with it.

Should be an interesting article, Les.

David
 
dbl-edge said:
4. Flow. Yes, that word is overused today. So much so that many people have no idea what it means, just that it's a cool word, and many knives described as having flow don't. The lines running from the blade to the handle, even if broken by a guard running across them, must be aligned to achieve good flow. If not you don't have flow. Simple as that.

7. Finally. "soul". A knife should have soul. In most cases the more CNC and other machine work on a knife the less soul it has. The opposite is true. I can usually tell if a knife was made with machines or with a person's hands holding it. I can appreciate a few of the machine heavy knives, but most. . . no.

I've probably just made some people POed, but that's okay. I'll live with it.

Should be an interesting article, Les.

David
Click to expand...

I haven't owned one, but if I changed the nature of my collecting, I would go straight for your knives, David, for the reasons above. And the bronze!

Best,

Bob Betzner
 
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