What do you think? (#2)

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Jul 21, 2010
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Ok, I got it! Couldn't figure out how to upload pic onto here (I know, noob, w/e. I get it). Anyway, in case you didn't see the stats before: 5 inch blade, made of 1095 steel, with a convexed or sabre grind. Full tang, of course, 3/16 inch thick. Belly of the blade is 1 and 1/4 inches at widest part, which is up until 2 inches before the tip, which is where it starts to taper off. The drop point mixed with spear point is exactly what I wanted. 4 and 1/4 inch handle, including tang extension for hitting/hammering, etc. Handle made of g10 or micarta, or possibly enclosed in checkered rubber (fallkniven A1/S1, Cold Steel SRK, etc). Whole deal: 12-14 ounces (hopefully!) This is my idea of the perfect outdoor/survival knife. So: what do you think?

http://s1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd439/boyscout157/?action=view&current=outdoorknife.jpg
 
nope. ESEE 5 has a bigger belly to the blade, it doesn't have the same tip angle, and the handle is different. technicalities, I know, and it was inspired by great knives, like the BK2 or ESEE, but this is not quite the same as any of them. This is my being bored and drawing up a knife that I think would be really functional in the field.
 
Haha Yeah, I think it is, all i'm saying, I would prefer a full flat grind on your blade, and that would make it near perfect. Perhaps one convex, one FFG version?

What would YOU retail something like this for?
 
Price? around $100. affordable, yet high quality. Purpose? general outdoors knife, usable for any situation.
 
Price? around $100. affordable, yet high quality. Purpose? general outdoors knife, usable for any situation.

Just an FYI the Becker has a saber grind, not a scandi grind. The difference is that the primary grind isn't the only grind on the becker, because it has a separate edge ground onto it, where as a scandi grind would be one angle from where the grind started all the way to the very edge where its sharp. Basically a Scandi would be on a Mora, while a Saber grind would be on a Becker, or ESEE 5.

It is called a high flat grind in this picture. The problem with most of these knife grind diagrams is that they don't point out whether or not a grind has a separately sharpened edge, and how that edge is generally ground on. Which makes them fairly frustrating if you're new to the technical knife stuff. For instance the scandi and the full convex in that picture both lack a separate edge grind which is correct, but the picture doesn't easily show the edges on the other 3 grinds, and completely skips chisel grinds which have a few variations. But now I'm incredibly off topic, I hope that helps someone eventually though. Might hit up MS paint tomorrow and make an improved diagram.

grinds2.jpg


Your design looks great, a bow drill dent in the handle would be great on a knife like that. The ESEE/RAT Laser strike is somewhat similar but smaller in a few ways.

Good luck, nice screen name :thumbup:
 
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thanks for clearing all that grind stuff up. That Laser Strike does look pretty similar, except the handle. Do they still make it? I couldn't find anything on ESEE's website. Or ebay, for that matter, which is even more discomforting
 
thanks for clearing all that grind stuff up. That Laser Strike does look pretty similar, except the handle. Do they still make it? I couldn't find anything on ESEE's website. Or ebay, for that matter, which is even more discomforting

It was originally put out under the RAT cutlery name years ago. They are just bringing it back now, its in the prototype stage, I'd think it should be available within the year.
 
Alright, bringing this thread back to show my phase two product: make a sample out of cardboard.
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Not sure if there is going to be a part 3, in which I would attempt to make a sample out of actual steel, but I was bored this morning so I did this.
 
how about a condor rodan? 5.25" blade, 3/16" thick, full tang, 12.8oz, robust and all for about $30.

CTK237-6HC.jpg
 
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