what do you think about checkering handle of heavy bowie knife?

V

Vulcanite

Joined
Jan 16, 2009
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Got a natchez bowie, the cheaper one. I can't say how pleased I am w/ the handle design, the overall shape. I am really surprised at how great it is, especially in a hammer or reverse hammer grip. I wouldn't change anything about it basic design. But I was thinking of checkering it, maybe all over. It is a little slick when wet.

What do you think about checking a heavy knife like this. Was thinking I could either use very fine checkering or I could use larger checkers and then knock down the points a little bit w/ some sand paper so it is not too abrasive.

I have already done checkering on guns so I know I can do it well enough, its just that I can't undo it...

I dont' want to put any rubbery type stuff on it since I carry this knife every day concealed (it has been shortened a little) and I don't want my jacket catching on it.
 
I think checkering is an awesome idea. I am not nearly skilled enough to do my own checkering job, but I've even tried to get something close with my dremmel tool on wood just to see how it would turn out (bad!). I have a couple of flat slab micarta RAT knives that I just end up wrapping in hockey tape for grip. If you can do decent checkering on a rifle stock or pistol/revolver slabs, try the bowie. I have thought about this a lot and think that you could put "patches" of larger checkering on key areas of the handle or if you were really motivated, do a really fine checkering on the whole thing. I'd really like to see someone try it.
 
Go ahead and checker it. You own the knife, personalize it the way you want so it feels good in your hands.

I think checkering (if done right) would look great.
 
Flat top checkering is the way to go ! You could go large , maybe 18 lpi.
 
I'm a gonna do it. I am just trying to figure out whether to use really fine checkering, or go w/ a courser flattened points. The object is to improve dry performance slightly and to keep my hand from hydroplaning on the grip when wet.

The other consideration is that the handle is a laminate wood hanles (plywood), looks like about <1/16" thick plys. If I go w/ the deeper checkering, that may cut too deep.

I got a nice email back from teh Dem Bart guy and he said that usually the guys that do all the way around checkering on gun stocks, knife handles or duck calls use 32 lpi. I suppose that is what I am gonna do...
 
checkering is surprisingly easy. I mean the job I did on the gun stock is amaturish. I would be ashamed to charge someone for the work, but it is functional. And it is really sort of fun and satisfying to do. But yes, the process is not that hard, at least when you use the guide line cutters. They have two blades, one is smooth and just rides in the last goove to guide the other tooth which is serrated and cuts the new groove. So if you start w/ a good straight line to begin with, it sort of just progresses naturally. It is quite easy on a flatish surface.
 
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