What do you think of my grinder stand idea?

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FRESH_OUTTA_800AD

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Dec 24, 2019
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Recently finished a pivoting 2x72 using Jeremy Schmidt's plans, and now its currently clamped to the side of my workbench while I decide what it's permanent home is going to look like.

I have a small garage, '1.5' car width, so space is a premium. Aint no cars parking in my workshop. Decided mobile grinder stand is best so I can shuffle things around when needed.

I'm considering using 1.5" - 1/8" walled squared tubing, unless that is a dumb idea. Could honestly use some suggestions on tube sizing for something like this.

Table will have a 1/8" plate on the top surface where the grinder mounts, and the back shelf. The grinder will be mounted to the frame rails through the plate. The bottom plate will be 3/8", mainly to lower the center of gravity

I also want to be able to have a water bucket partially tucked under in the frame. I'm thinking of using a making a sliding table to allow the bucket to be tucked in/pulled out more easily.

The VFD will be mounted on the top off to the side via a post mounted to the top plate.

These pics are the general idea. I need to adjust the leg length to get the grinding height right, and I'll put castors on the bottom. Didn't think the extra effort of sketching the castors up was worth it, you get the idea.

I want to have some storage internal to the frame to make use of the internal frame space, although I am still thinking about what would make the best use of this space. I'd also probably mount some sort of rack to one side for belt storage.


Was wondering if anyone had done something like this before, wished they had done something a little bit differently if they had the opportunity, or just some other general input before I head down to the steel store.

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Overall, a good idea. I think it would work well as a fixed location stand. Making anything roll is more complicated.

The welds must be rock solid!

Make sure width is wide enough for center of gravity balance. With a grinder on the top it might be a bit "tippy" when rolling around.

I don't understand why the back "shelf" area is dropped below the front. It would be more usable space if it was the same height as the rest of the top.

I would not extend the legs past the bottom shelf if putting on casters. Use heavy duty casters - straight roll with locks on the front, swivel on the back. Bolt or weld the caster plates to the bottom shelf plate.
 
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Hi Stacy

The concern I have with a fixed base is that I will likely at some point have to shuffle things around, and I expect the combined weight of this sucker to be kinda heavy. I think it would be less likely to tip if I don't have to rock it back and forth to move it around. Probably tear up my floor less this way too. Will do some practice welds on some 1/8" scrap to get the settings dialed in. Bit thinner than the 3/8" I've been working with lately.. :)

The back shelf is dropped because with this grinder design the motor dips below the top surface plate by 6-7". I've seen this solved in other ways, like just making the grinder base legs taller to give the motor clearance, however I think with the base will be stiffer with shorter feet.

I was also thinking of ending the legs at the lower frame so I get more room above the bottom plate. I'll mount the castors to the outer corner pieces.
 
I would recommend retractable casters and leveling feet to give it more stability. Hockey pucks are cheap and make great leveling feet. They can be drilled easily with Forstner bits.

Here is a video showing DIY retractable casters, maybe you could do something similar to that. The fellow has a whole series on different caster solutions, the video is just part one.

 
Oh yeah that's a pretty good idea. I could use those on several things to be honest. I think I'll stick with locking casters for now. If I find that to be annoying/I can try adding weight to the bottom shelf.
 
I think the cart/stand is too tall. Start by measuring from the ground up to your elbows. That measurement is the height you want the center of your tool arm pocket(platen receiver). Don't forget to account for the added height of the casters.
 
Weight cuts down on vibration which can be tiring & louder, if you like to grind a stack of blades or taper all of the tangs. I find it makes a difference ..I also have thicker top pieces on my two grinders . One is 1/2” plywood & the other 1/2” poly like they cut food on in commercial kitchen. Also smooths things out.
 
I've found that a rectangular or square water container under my 2x72 catches more than a round one. Just an observation...
 
Kevin McGovern said:
My grinder is about 2x heavier and it's mounted on a harbor freight base. It's like $30. Totally solid.
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Well hot damn, if that’s a viable option it would be a helleva lot cheaper than building my own. I’ll check it out. Might be a good interim solution

Square bucket is also a good thought.
 
If you're not moving very often you might use a fixed stand, then a hand truck/dolly to move it around when needed. That's what I do and it works pretty good. Just have to be careful about the top heavy issue.
 
FRESH_OUTTA_800AD said:
Well hot damn, if that’s a viable option it would be a helleva lot cheaper than building my own. I’ll check it out. Might be a good interim solution

Square bucket is also a good thought.
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i think you can also get a wheel base that you can retract the wheels when it's stationary.
 
Forgot to mention! My grinder weighs about 130#. If you grinder is considerably lighter, it may not be solid and move when you push into it.
 
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