What etching solution do you guys use

breavis5694

breavis5694

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May 7, 2015
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I'm about to strip another knife and this time I want to etch the Busse logo. I did a search for metal etchant and got nothing, but I know I've seen it on here.

Want do you use, or have used and your experiences. Thanks Hogs
 
6 parts Ferric chloride to 4 parts cleaning grade vinegar (home depot carries it) thats good for general etching/damascus. Otherwise google/youtube electro etch with salt water, quetip and a battery charger. Good for doing images/letters etc...
 
If you got a Radio Shack nearby, you're in business...

Ask for this:

http://comingsoon.radioshack.com/radioshack-16oz-pcb-etchant-solution/2761535.html#.VZ2rEvlVhBc

I've diluted it and I've ran it full strength for the Busse logo...good results both ways...

Be prepared to spend most of the day changing out the solution & dabbing off your logo with clean cloth to keep etch fresh & solution strong...

lots of good posts here on the subject-- that's how I learned :thumbup::)

just post up some pics when you're done...in progress pics are better, though :rolleyes:
 
I used the above mentioned PCB enchant fron RS. It took me 3 one hour applications with brushing between. Once I had the desired depth I washed with soap and water. The following pic was after it was stripped immediately following the etch. My only regret is that the Y in anniversary is slightly lighter than the rest. I'd concentrate on covering more than the direct logo area so that you get good coverage. This was my first and I'm sure I'll be doing more.

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mattdub1 said:
How do you keep it from etching the rest of the blade?
Click to expand...

The etchant only etches the uncoated area. The logo is engraved thru the coating so it's bare metal in the letters of the logo. As the etchant works it's a fine balance between depth and loss of definition of the logo because the etchant eats at all exposed metal. When your applying the etchant you want to have some means of controlling the area it covers either hot glue or putty. You'll want to be sure the etchant doesn't make way down to the blade edge.
 
So u strip it first, then there's no coating right? Then if u brush it on the logo doesn't it still get in the bare steel right around the logo? Sorry if I'm being naïve. Or are you saying etch first, then strip?
 
On the radio shack website I searched for stores near me and got nothing literally no results.
 
mattdub1 said:
So u strip it first, then there's no coating right? Then if u brush it on the logo doesn't it still get in the bare steel right around the logo? Sorry if I'm being naïve. Or are you saying etch first, then strip?
Click to expand...

Etch then strip, the coating is what keeps the etchant from eating everything. Once it's stripped it's too late for the most part.
 
breavis5694 said:
On the radio shack website I searched for stores near me and got nothing literally no results.
Click to expand...
Lots of their stores went out of business. There's only 3 left here in MN I think....I called them today and they had to ship more etch from an out of state store. I'm buying some to re-do the etch on my first damascus ...if I can do it right :) iv read several different methods/ different steps so don't fully understand the process just yet. For example, some say ferric chloride 50/50 with water or vinegar, some say more dilluted. Also heard multiple different neutralizers...and some say to flood with acetone right after the last etch (supposedly keeps the etch better)then wash off with water and then neutralize . Then some blot dry and let it sit for few hours and some say to put a "penetrating oil" on it right after neutralizing, for a day to set the etch.... If anyone has a very good/detailed step by step to point me to, would be awesome!
 
For those that can't find the PCB Etchant at Radio Shack you can purchase from this company they sell crystals you mix with water or you can purchase the copper etching solution in different grades depending on what material you are etching......https://www.graphicchemical.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=43&cat=Acids+&+Mordants

50/50 is very aggressive I use 25% but I heat the chemical to shorten the time in the chemical when I am doing carbon pattern welded steels. I use a brass bristle brush to remove the residue when checking the etch until I achieve the desired depth of the etch. I use a paste of baking soda to rub on the blade that way I can push it down into the pores to stop the chemical action. I rinse with COLD water and do a second application of paste before the final rinse. I use light weight 3 in 1 oil since I have on my bench for other applications but apply it liberally and allow it to just sit and wick in around the pattern. I finalize with a parkerizing finish which will protect the blade from harmful moisture. I have tried bluing but it didn't impress me as much as the parkerizing.
 
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