What Exactly IS a "Scandivex" Bevel, And...

redsquid2

redsquid2

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...and what is the usefulness of scandivex? I mean, what do you use a scandivex knife for?

When I think "convex", I think of an axe. I don't think of a knife.

How much of a "scandivex" is "scandi" and how much of it is "vex?"

Thanks for clearing this up for me. I never heard of "scandivex" until I started hanging out on bladeforums.

--redsquid2
 
I think it is a sabre grind, where the entire primary grind is convexed, & relatively short. Think of a bushcrafter, but with a convex rather than flat grind.
I think it is a relatively new term, & hope it doesn't catch on.
 
mtangent said:
I think it is a sabre grind, where the entire primary grind is convexed, & relatively short. Think of a bushcrafter, but with a convex rather than flat grind.
I think it is a relatively new term, & hope it doesn't catch on.
Click to expand...

pardon my ignorance, what is the benefit to a convexed sabre grind? durability?
 
stonproject said:
pardon my ignorance, what is the benefit to a convexed sabre grind? durability?
Click to expand...

Personal preference, I suppose. Especially in sharpening. Some like to sharpen convexes, others like to sharpen a flat grind.

Naming the grind doesn't tell you anything about the grind angles or apex angle.
Perhaps it gives a point of difference when advertising.
I can only guess. Like many things, the important stuff is in the details, rather than the general description, IMO.

I can imagine also, that after being fashionable for a few years, bushcrafters need a new label to keep things fresh. Variety is good.

Edit: If the convexing thins the shoulder a bit, it would slice better.
 
First thing I do with a Mora is to convex it from the shoulder to the edge.

I find it splits and slices better as it has less drag.

I find it easier to sharpen the edge freehand, particularly with a pocket stone. YMMV.

I find a convexed cutting edge to be more durable and less prone to damage.

Lastly, I watch a lot of virtuovice videos on YouTube and my hope is that if I sharpen like he does, maybe I'll get as many deer
 
It's a marketing term for a convexed short saber grind. Bleh.
 
mtangent said:
Edit: If the convexing thins the shoulder a bit, it would slice better.
Click to expand...

The one in this picture was surprisingly slicey, even though you can see the bevel is not that wide, and it was 1/8" stock. It was one that I made. I put the final edge on it by stropping with sandpaper over thick leather, at a low angle. Stropped it from start to finish, starting at 80 grit. It was kind of an experiment, but it came out wicket sharp. No "shoulder" per say.

8575306207_f256ed73fb_b.jpg


8575303753_90a73c436d_b.jpg


I think it belongs to bf user "woodysone" now.
 
redsquid2 said:
The one in this picture was surprisingly slicey, even though you can see the bevel is not that wide, and it was 1/8" stock. It was one that I made. I put the final edge on it by stropping with sandpaper over thick leather, at a low angle. Stropped it from start to finish, starting at 80 grit. It was kind of an experiment, but it came out wicket sharp. No "shoulder" per say.

8575306207_f256ed73fb_b.jpg


8575303753_90a73c436d_b.jpg


I think it belongs to bf user "woodysone" now.
Click to expand...
That's the kind of knife I like!
I think you've ground it properly: an acute grind on thin stock is going to slice well.
Some scandivex grinds are more obtuse & feel like they still have a shoulder.
 
stonproject said:
pardon my ignorance, what is the benefit to a convexed sabre grind? durability?
Click to expand...

A big reason for putting a convex edge on a scandi or sabre grind is for sharpening purposes. Its far easier to sharpen a convex edge especially in the field. As long as your not working with some super steel you can keep your edge razor sharp with a strop. Sharpening scandis is a pain in the but and takes a lot more skill.
 
Honest Reviews said:
A big reason for putting a convex edge on a scandi or sabre grind is for sharpening purposes. Its far easier to sharpen a convex edge especially in the field. As long as your not working with some super steel you can keep your edge razor sharp with a strop. Sharpening scandis is a pain in the but and takes a lot more skill.
Click to expand...

Exactly. I started buying scandi knives a few years ago, and thought they would be easy to sharpen. It was just the opposite. It was taking so long to sharpen them, I just gave up, and then put a microbevel on every scandi I had.
 
Supposed ease of sharpening with convex edges is mostly false attribution. The reason is a bit long-winded but essentially you're probably increasing your edge angle when doing so because of deflection from a soft backing surface.
 
redsquid2 said:
Exactly. I started buying scandi knives a few years ago, and thought they would be easy to sharpen. It was just the opposite. It was taking so long to sharpen them, I just gave up, and then put a microbevel on every scandi I had.
Click to expand...
Same here - I've got three originally scandi knives and I added secondary bevel on all of them in the end.
 
A Scandi IS easy to sharpen, because the big single bevel likes to lie flat on the stone. You need to remove more material, but the fact that that big bevel also is easier to sharpen using circular motions kind of makes up for that.

The only downside is that a scandi grind can basically never have a sharpening choil. (With some exceptions):
7736_01.jpg

^This is possibly the easiest knife to sharpen that I’ve ever had the pleasure of using.
 
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Great necro...

And full of ‘wisdom’. Sharpening a Scandi requires lots of skill? SMH a Scandi is just about the easiest thing to get razor sharp on bench stones.
 
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