What features in a folding knife are important to you?

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Jan 23, 2017
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Hey everyone! You may have seen me on the sale forums the past few months, I've got a super high turnover in my collection. Sold >70 knives just since April. I do a lot of buying to try, realizing I don't like a knife, and then selling it to buy another. The more I handle different knives from different makers, I find that things I used to think were important just aren't anymore, and little things can absolutely ruin a knife design for me.

Things I used to think were important:

A blade steel >CPM154. Let's be real for a second. We're not using our knives in a way that it actually matters what the steel is, as long as it's not unnamed Chinese stainless steel (nothing against China). As long as it can slice a decent number of Amazon packages before going dull, that's good enough. Realistically, the extent to which a steel chips or rolls shouldn't matter. You shouldn't be punching your knife through oil barrels in the first place. A steel that effectively ups the price of a knife by $50-100 (cough Terravantium cough cough) just is not worth it. Just get the Invictus in the M390, not the one in Terravantium. You're not going to actually notice a difference, especially if you ACTUALLY MAINTAIN YOUR KNIVES.

Brand/Maker. Just because someone is good or popular doesn't mean all of their knives are winners. I'm not going to call anyone out, positive or negative. Just don't buy a knife for the sake of owning a knife from that brand/maker. Buy the knives that actually get you excited. Buy the knives that are actually interesting to you. If you just buy based on name, you're going to sell that knife eventually and lose money on the sale.

Perceived Value. This is the same as the previous. Don't buy a knife thinking "This is a $500 knife, so it's going to be great and totally worth it". I think we all know by now that not every expensive knife is actually worth it's cost (cough James Brand cough cough). This especially applies if you're punching above your weight class. If your collection is <$300, don't just buy a $600 knife for the sake of having something fancy. You're going to feel bad about actually carrying/using it, and you'll probably just end up selling it eventually. Same goes for buying knives just because they have some fancy material, like Damasteel or Timascus or fancy Carbon Fiber. Again, buy knives that you actually want, not knives you think you should want (the griptilian is a bad knife fight me).

Things that are important to me now:

A real, useable sharpening choil. One where the plunge clears it by at least a few millimeters, so you could reasonably sharpen it a few times before hitting the plunge and making a smile. Why this is so hard for makers to do, I do not know.

A design where the tip of the knife is buried deep enough in the handle that it can't bite you when closed, whether it's the original edge, or a design where after a few sharpenings it'll start biting you (cough Spyderco Shaman cough cough). Same goes for edges that are too close to the open spine of the knife and can slice you when you slide your hand into your pocket.

A clip that is actually designed for pockets. I'm not talking about a stupidly spacious clip that'll fit on your cowboy boots. I'm not even saying every knife needs a deep carry clip. The more I collect, the more I actually prefer shallow carry because it tends to be more ergonomic and less hotspots. I'm talking about a clip that has JUST A FEW MILLIMETERS OF CLEARANCE (cough CKF cough cough) that could only fit a silk handkerchief underneath them. Same goes for clips that have no clearance at the lip (cough ZT 0640 cough cough) or that have a lip that is so pronounced it digs into your palm (why does no one called out CRK for this?).

I'm not posting this to say I'm right and people are wrong. I want to hear from you all! What's important to you when you're choosing which knife to spend your hard-earned money on?
 
I'll be a little more serious but really, a flipper tab nowadays makes me immediately move on. It just doesn't do it for me.

After that, I look at blade length. I prefer larger knives but there's no set size or length.

I prefer washers. Any washers. The bearing knives I have are 50/50. All are functional and some are sublime and even fun but the rest are just functional. Washers have been much more consistent in my experience for me.

Handle material. I like a good liner knife but I've ended up with a lot of frame locks. I cannot absolutely stand when there is a raw slab of titanium for the lock side and then some plasticky material on the other that's a completely different color. Either anodize the lock side or make the handle side out of titanium.

I just want to know what the blade is made of and hope I can trust the company got the steel right.
 
It should have a pointy point, enough to poke into things.
A slicey-enough edge.
Enough belly.
Long enough edge to make a useful slice.
Decently ergonomic handle.
Decent edge-holding ability.
Not too heavy.
Not too fragile.

That’s about it.
 
1) Large enough to get a full 4 finger grip. For me thatis roughly 3.625 inches closed.

2) Multipul Blades; Stockman; Barlow; Canoe; Sunfish; Moose; Trapper, etc. are my preferrence. Although I do have some single blade friction folders, slipjoints, and lockbacks.

3) Solid Construction. Low cost knives can and do have solid construction. I agree with what my Great Grand Father (1892~1973) told me: "It's stupid to pay a premuim for a name."
No excessive blade wigglie wobblies, and while I don't insist on perfectly centered blades, I do insist no blade rubs a liner, or another blade enough to affect the opening of either blade.

4) Plain Edge; no daRn dang serrations.

I don't pay much attention to the blade steel, aside from is it carbon steel or stain less. (given a choice, I'll take carbon steel) and is it easy to sharpen without a diamond or SiC stone.

Over the 60 ~ 61 years I've carried a knife, I've found that 440A; 440C; 420HC; the CR whatever MoV "equivelents" are, 1.4116 Krupp, 1055 to 1095; whatever carbon steels it is that Mora and Opinel use, and T10, do everythhing I need a knife to do, and hold an edge long enough to dress up to 3 whitetail (or a couple messa fish) before needing stropped. (Same for the 5CR15MoV CS is currently using/used last on the KUDU.)

Yeah ... I have CPM154, D2, and S30V, but I don't need those steels.
 
- Steel: at least 14C28N, but Rex45, Maxamet, S90V, K390 is welcome. So is good damascus (eg AEB-L/304).
- Good heat treat.
- Stock thickness about 3mm and as thin behind the edge as the maker is game enough to go.
- FFG or high hollow grind.
- Handle materials not derived from petrochemicals, but I will compromise and buy plastic if the tolerances are great and I can fit aftermarket scales (liners are in place). Or if it is a beater, I don't care, but the price must reflect this.
- Phosphor bronze washers. I don't think ball bearings can maintain smooth operation in the long run.
- Good, neutral ergonomics and one hand opening.
- Locking mechanism order of preference: back lock, Axis/Able/CBB lock, frame lock, liner lock.
- Distal taper can be a plus, but not a deal breaker.

Things that are unimportant to me:

- the pocket clip and its placement.
- anodizing
- fidget factor


Things I avoid:

- billboarding,
- pinned construction. Unless it is a traditional or a SAK, must be easy to disassemble/reassemble.
- soft screws and red thread locker,
- black G-10,
- made in the PRC,
- tantos,
- tacticoolness.
 
Hey everyone! You may have seen me on the sale forums the past few months, I've got a super high turnover in my collection. Sold >70 knives just since April. I do a lot of buying to try, realizing I don't like a knife, and then selling it to buy another. The more I handle different knives from different makers, I find that things I used to think were important just aren't anymore, and little things can absolutely ruin a knife design for me.

Things I used to think were important:

A blade steel >CPM154. Let's be real for a second. We're not using our knives in a way that it actually matters what the steel is, as long as it's not unnamed Chinese stainless steel (nothing against China). As long as it can slice a decent number of Amazon packages before going dull, that's good enough. Realistically, the extent to which a steel chips or rolls shouldn't matter. You shouldn't be punching your knife through oil barrels in the first place. A steel that effectively ups the price of a knife by $50-100 (cough Terravantium cough cough) just is not worth it. Just get the Invictus in the M390, not the one in Terravantium. You're not going to actually notice a difference, especially if you ACTUALLY MAINTAIN YOUR KNIVES.

Brand/Maker. Just because someone is good or popular doesn't mean all of their knives are winners. I'm not going to call anyone out, positive or negative. Just don't buy a knife for the sake of owning a knife from that brand/maker. Buy the knives that actually get you excited. Buy the knives that are actually interesting to you. If you just buy based on name, you're going to sell that knife eventually and lose money on the sale.

Perceived Value. This is the same as the previous. Don't buy a knife thinking "This is a $500 knife, so it's going to be great and totally worth it". I think we all know by now that not every expensive knife is actually worth it's cost (cough James Brand cough cough). This especially applies if you're punching above your weight class. If your collection is <$300, don't just buy a $600 knife for the sake of having something fancy. You're going to feel bad about actually carrying/using it, and you'll probably just end up selling it eventually. Same goes for buying knives just because they have some fancy material, like Damasteel or Timascus or fancy Carbon Fiber. Again, buy knives that you actually want, not knives you think you should want (the griptilian is a bad knife fight me).

Things that are important to me now:

A real, useable sharpening choil. One where the plunge clears it by at least a few millimeters, so you could reasonably sharpen it a few times before hitting the plunge and making a smile. Why this is so hard for makers to do, I do not know.

A design where the tip of the knife is buried deep enough in the handle that it can't bite you when closed, whether it's the original edge, or a design where after a few sharpenings it'll start biting you (cough Spyderco Shaman cough cough). Same goes for edges that are too close to the open spine of the knife and can slice you when you slide your hand into your pocket.

A clip that is actually designed for pockets. I'm not talking about a stupidly spacious clip that'll fit on your cowboy boots. I'm not even saying every knife needs a deep carry clip. The more I collect, the more I actually prefer shallow carry because it tends to be more ergonomic and less hotspots. I'm talking about a clip that has JUST A FEW MILLIMETERS OF CLEARANCE (cough CKF cough cough) that could only fit a silk handkerchief underneath them. Same goes for clips that have no clearance at the lip (cough ZT 0640 cough cough) or that have a lip that is so pronounced it digs into your palm (why does no one called out CRK for this?).

I'm not posting this to say I'm right and people are wrong. I want to hear from you all! What's important to you when you're choosing which knife to spend your hard-earned money on?

You should see someone about that cough...
 
My collection interests have progressively narrowed. I think there are only 3 things that I look for in a new knife.
1. A lock or opening mechanism that I don't already own (a blanket exception to this rule exists for older G&G Hawk knives)
2. A pocket clip
3. Some semblance of decent cutting geometry
 
high corrosion resistance, not just the blade. the entire knife.

Thumb stud or spydie hole

made in the USA

decent amount of grippyness to the handles but nothing overboard.


basically a sebenza or pm2.
 
-US made
-Good clips
-All black
-Carbon fiber is icing on the cake
-Good HT
-NO finger choils
-4” blade preferable
-No shallow grinds
-Slim profile
-Sterile is a huge plus
-Tritium is a huge plus
-Automatic
-Utilitarian ergonomics

Some of these rules are broken from time to time, but that’s generally my idea of what I want.
 
Interesting thread topic. I don’t see myself as an overly strict or snobbish knife guy, but here are a few parameters in no particular order.
- needs to have solid lockup (no noticable blade play) and decent detent
- acceptable centering. It DOESN’T have to be perfect centering, but the blade grinding with the scales is just bad workmanship
- not too much knife showing when clipped to the pocket. I’m not a super deep carry guy, but it’s nice to have logically placed pocket clips
- good overall fit and finish
- consistent deployment. I don’t really need butter smooth action, just consistent snag-free action with no hiccups.
- no assisted mechanisms of any kind

These are just a few, and I don’t necessarily adhere to them 100% of the time. But most of the knives in the arsenal fit these criteria.
 
-US made
-Good clips
-All black
-Carbon fiber is icing on the cake
-Good HT
-NO finger choils
-4” blade preferable
-No shallow grinds
-Slim profile
-Sterile is a huge plus
-Tritium is a huge plus
-Automatic
-Utilitarian ergonomics

Some of these rules are broken from time to time, but that’s generally my idea of what I want.
Lol, so which 3 Microtechs do you carry, Tyler? Kidding of course. There’s probably 2 or 3 Protechs that fit the bill too. 😆😁

It’s good to narrow it down and only look for what makes you happy. I have mine narrowed down somewhat but stray to expand the horizons a bit. If I don’t dig it I can always sell it and on to the next.

What generally does it for me is at least 4” of handle, at least 3” of blade, centered when closed, no play when open, and a steel I don’t have to sharpen every time I use it.
 
Lol, so which 3 Microtechs do you carry, Tyler? Kidding of course. There’s probably 2 or 3 Protechs that fit the bill too. 😆😁

It’s good to narrow it down and only look for what makes you happy. I have mine narrowed down somewhat but stray to expand the horizons a bit. If I don’t dig it I can always sell it and on to the next.

What generally does it for me is at least 4” of handle, at least 3” of blade, centered when closed, no play when open, and a steel I don’t have to sharpen every time I use it.

LOL! It’s usually a Scarab II or a Combat Troodon for me. BUT… a Protech TR3 or Godfather gets thrown in along with a Spyderco Military or Starmate here and there.

As I mentioned, rules are broken at times. Which is why the Sandrin Torino has been getting a lot of pocket time as well. Thanks to WValtakis WValtakis for turning me on to it. It knifes very well 😀


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A good, reputable company preferably USA ....sneeze (ZT)
Good steel for the $ (S30V wouldn’t stop me from buying any knife),but nothing less than 8cr.
3.5-4” blade for the most part
A pointy tip, that’s a big one
Deep carry clip
Bearings or washers much appreciated
Last but maybe most importantly, a cutout in the handle for my index finger (in case my hand slips I would like to keep all my fingers) ✋ buck 110 gets the exception cuz it’s beautiful but I wouldn’t want to use it in a SD situation.

*of course it took me a while to figure out what I like and just because my Griptilians stick out of my pocket 1” I still love it. Same goes for my A/O ZTs.
 
It's more a list of things I don't want, but I guess I can just post both

Want:
Micarta or G10 handles, with exceptions on a case-by-case basis (Boker/Serge Gust looks good in brass, for example).
Spear point or Sheepsfoot blade
Secure pocket clip

Don't want:
Framelocks
Gigantic thumb ramps
Serrations
Jimping, with case-by-case exceptions
Flipper tabs
Spring assists
Needle-fine tips
Full-height grinds
Blade stock with less than about 0.125", although I've bent this one, too.
Recurve blades
"Speed holes" or weight reduction holes in liners. I like a knife with a little ballast.
 
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