What grid to use for sharpening High Carbon Steel?

A

Andrey Soghomonyan

Joined
Mar 16, 2020
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Hello guys, new to this forum and also new to the handmade knives industry.

Bought a handmade knife a few months ago and was curious what grit to use for sharpening my handmade knife?

Thank you :)
 
Hello,
sharpness is something everyone will define in a different way.
I personally get nervous if I have to use a knife that is not hair popping sharp, that means, you will need no pressure at all to shave hair from your arm.
I sharpen my knives first on a Lansky till the finest, gold diamond stone.
After that a 6000 grit natural stone (belgian wet stone)
and finally stropping on a leather strop with some metal polish.

To maintain the edge, I strop the knife allways it will be necessary.
Every few months (depending on use) I go back to the belgian wet stone, maybe once every half year or less (I don't have only one knife ;))
a new edge is needed with the Lansky.

Regards
Nicolas
 
I use DMT diamond hones 99% of the time, but for final finishing on high carbon steel (1070, 1080, 1095, 50100, 5200 etc.) I go to an ancient Black Arkansas bench stone. It seems to create a micro-toothy edge that will whittle hair. However, it doesn't work well on so-called super steels with very high carbide content like S30V, etc.
 
Welcome to the forum!

I'd suggest you first determine whether you want a coarse, toothy edge or a fine, smooth edge. That will depend on what you want your knife to do. Searching will bring up many posts about these here and on the internet.

That might save you from buying stones you won't need, especially high grit stones if you decide you only want coarse edges.
 
Any idea what the steel is? I have a course and fine stone diamond stone from DMT

I also use a Spyderco sharp maker ser or medium and fine ceramic sticks.

For simple carbon steels you should be able to get a hair jumping sharp edge prettily easily off a single ceramic stick, or stone. No secret. But I also find that different steels and uses, I like less refinement of the edge. You should be able to get a hair jumping edge that easily shaves off of a fine diamond stone, or even a medium stone. Same with the ceramics. Lower grit gives a more toothy/bitey edge. This type of edge works better on amny brings like rope, plastics etc.

I can take a knife that will shave hair off my hand in either direction, either side, with no pressure. But it does not cut shrink wrap or other materials as well as it does if I skip the fine stone and strop, and just leave it at the medium ceramic, or even the fine diamond.
 
I usually only go to my medium washita stone then a couple passes on my strop to debur.
Take some time to read the stickies above. A lot of good info. Are you freehand sharpening or using a guide?
 
Bigfattyt said:
Any idea what the steel is? I have a course and fine stone diamond stone from DMT

I also use a Spyderco sharp maker ser or medium and fine ceramic sticks.

For simple carbon steels you should be able to get a hair jumping sharp edge prettily easily off a single ceramic stick, or stone. No secret. But I also find that different steels and uses, I like less refinement of the edge. You should be able to get a hair jumping edge that easily shaves off of a fine diamond stone, or even a medium stone. Same with the ceramics. Lower grit gives a more toothy/bitey edge. This type of edge works better on amny brings like rope, plastics etc.

I can take a knife that will shave hair off my hand in either direction, either side, with no pressure. But it does not cut shrink wrap or other materials as well as it does if I skip the fine stone and strop, and just leave it at the medium ceramic, or even the fine diamond.
Click to expand...

According to the store the stell is High Carbon Steel 1080. They suggested to use 1000 grit and for polishing 6000 grit...Any Ideas if it will work? Don't want to waist money
 
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