What grind is my blade?

R

R.B.K.

Joined
Oct 8, 2020
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102
Since I’ve already proven my ignorance as to blade types and grinds I reckon I can shamelessly ask another question relative to that. I just bought another pocket knife. Neither side of the spear or sheepsfoot blade has a bevel. What type of grind is this? And can I sharpen it on my sharpmaker just like any other knife?
 
R.B.K. said:
Since I’ve already proven my ignorance as to blade types and grinds I reckon I can shamelessly ask another question relative to that. I just bought another pocket knife. Neither side of the spear or sheepsfoot blade has a bevel. What type of grind is this? And can I sharpen it on my sharpmaker just like any other knife?
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Sounds like a flat-grind, but why don't you post a pic? :thumbsup:
 
Yep ... Sharpmaker

pnLwv60.jpg
 
I do not know how to. When I click on the image icon it asks for http/ etc. I’m assuming I need an image hosting site? Which I don’t have.

The knife is a pre war Ulster cattle knife. I bought it from a man who goes by Tongueriver on another forum. Bought it pretty cheap. It has some issues like weak lock up on the two blades and one scale is separating slightly. Are these fixable at all? Wish I could post pic. It’s a beautiful knife that I’m into less that $50
 
Pre War Ulster Cattle knife is probably full flatgrind with a micro bevel.
As far as I know you can use a sharp maker on it.
Have you tried dry stropping to see if that will restore the working edge? Most times that is all that is needed once the edge is set. It is actually pretty rare to need to hit the edge with a stone.
 
afishhunter said:
Pre War Ulster Cattle knife is probably full flatgrind with a micro bevel.
As far as I know you can use a sharp maker on it.
Have you tried dry stropping to see if that will restore the working edge? Most times that is all that is needed once the edge is set. It is actually pretty rare to need to hit the edge with a stone.
Click to expand...
I haven’t. I am not familiar with the use of a strop. Although I do have an heirloom old #2 and an Illinois #127 on my watchlist on eBay. I used my sharpmsksr on the spear blade tonight with ok results. I’m still learning it and I seem to get the blade sharper towards the tips than I do the hilt.
 
R.B.K. said:
I haven’t. I am not familiar with the use of a strop. Although I do have an heirloom old #2 and an Illinois #127 on my watchlist on eBay. I used my sharpmsksr on the spear blade tonight with ok results. I’m still learning it and I seem to get the blade sharper towards the tips than I do the hilt.
Click to expand...

Everyone develops a technique for sharpening and it takes a little time and practice but the learning curve isn't that long if you develop a consistent technique.
Sharpmaker works best for me if I keep my wrist "locked" and only rotate through the stroke with my shoulder ... elbow moves only a little, but wrist not at all.
Maybe afishhunter afishhunter will chime in with some stropping hints and tips. I sometimes use the underside of an old leather belt as a strop.
 
R.B.K. said:
I do not know how to. When I click on the image icon it asks for http/ etc. I’m assuming I need an image hosting site? Which I don’t have.

The knife is a pre war Ulster cattle knife. I bought it from a man who goes by Tongueriver on another forum. Bought it pretty cheap. It has some issues like weak lock up on the two blades and one scale is separating slightly. Are these fixable at all? Wish I could post pic. It’s a beautiful knife that I’m into less that $50
Click to expand...
As a registered user, you can post pictures using a picture hosting site. Once you have uploaded a picture to the hosting site, copy the web address of the picture. Note: picture web addresses must end in .jpg or .gif

Then go to your post and click the image tool on the toolbar next to the smiley tool. Click the link icon in the popup. (Looks like a chain.) Paste the picture address into the window. Then click the INSERT button.
 
If it really has no edge bevel then it's called a zero grind. You can have a zero edge with a full flat grind or convex bevel. I think Rockstead does a convex scandi.
 
It probably has no bevel because the original is worn off for one reason or the other (I'm talking about the secondary bevel here, not the main bevel). Lots of use with no re-sharpening done until the blade is as sharp as a butter knife is a common occurrence. Also, some folks used to sharpen their blades by laying them flat on a stone, eliminating the secondary bevel as they brought the main bevel to an edge. This was surprisingly rather common and was actually recommended by some manufacturers. It was an easier task back then as the main grinds back then terminated to a thinner edge than what you see from a lot of makers nowadays.

It'll take a bit more work to bring the edge back but it'll work.

Eric
 
BrotherJim said:
Maybe afishhunter afishhunter afishhunter afishhunter will chime in with some stropping hints and tips.
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ok. I'll try. Keep in mind I'm not an expert, and I've never put any polishing compound or past on my strop. (for most of my life my "strop" was my belt or boot toe)
I just pull the edge across the strop using light to moderate pressure, spine raised just enough so the flat of the blade is off the strop away from me, flip the blade and repeat. Never lead with the edge
When you flip the knife, lift it off the strop. 4 or 5 passes is usually enough to maintain the edge.
.
I use the same technique when using a butcher steel, and never lead with the edge.
(Contrary to popular belief, a steel when used properly removes no to little blade steel. It does, however restore a rolled edge, and will remove a wire edge.)

After stropping, if the edge reflects light, it needs to visit the stone.
I was taught "old school" when knife blades were 1095 or 440A. While other steels may have been used, I never saw them.
Anyway, I was taught by 5 generations how to sharpen a knife. Father and his siblings, grand parents, great grand parents, and a great-great grandmother. All were unanimous: Lay the knife flat on the stone. Lift the spine so the blade flat clears the stone; 8 to 12 degrees per side, 10 degrees being ideal. On the stone, lead with the edge, never follow with the edge. If you lead with the edge, you won't get a 🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬😡😡😡😡🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬 wire edge. After 3 or 4 passes, flip the blade and repeat. Chech the edge with your thumb.
(not by running your thumb lengthwise along the edge. Common sense should tell you that is an excellent way to get a nasty cut. Sadly, I have met a few "people" who's common sense had either left, was defective, or they were born without any, who did run their thumb lengthwise, or licked the edge with their tongue like they saw some idiot actor in a Hollywood BS Western do.)

They also agreed that a wire edge was a bad thing. A very, very, very exceptionally very bad thing to have.
After sharpening on the stone, strop using a slightly steeper angle than you used on the stone, to work off any wire edge/false edge that may be present.
 
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Thank you all. Especially knarfeng and afishhunter. I am very deficient in both of those areas and your descriptions help a great deal.
 
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