What grits do you use for your kitchen knives?

Skimo

Skimo

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Mar 28, 2009
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I've seen, even recently, some people saying they like a coarser finish for their kitchen knives, and everybody and their brother seems to have a fully serrated "bread knife". A couple years ago I decided to learn to sharpen, and after I got my Edge Pro I took a blade (plain edge) finished at 1000 grit and stropped, picked up a loaf of french bread and proceeded to cut slices without so much as a crumb falling off, polished blades seem to cut quite well for me, for every cooking medium.

Share your thoughts and or experiences, is there something I'm missing?
 
Well you've sparked another question then, because I was referring to the edge.

At that point in time I just took my time going through the grits on my apex up to 1,000 grit and light stropping.

From what I've heard blade geometry plays a significant role for cutting, I wasn't aware that blade (not edge) finish would change much.

I'm no chef, no prep cook, nothing, but I do enjoy cooking and somewhat baking, but all of that is not the point.

I'm a habitual person, I use (for example) 600 grit exclusively for my EDC knives, for my horrible kitchen knives, (example) the steak knives I know they will be destroyed shortly because of use on ceramic plates so I tend to leave them at 320 grit at a lower angle so all I have to do to "fix" them is hit 'em with a micro bevel.

Given these examples, could you if you would be so kind, give me a short list of grits and finishes for ordinary kitchen duty?
 
For generic stainless (unknown steel) Henkels etc. I don't usually go much beyond 800 grit and will probably strop & polish. Good Carbon Steel 1095/1084 and so I run all the way up to 4000 grit and strop they will hold that edge long enough to make it worth the effort. I think most mass produced stainless is too soft to hold a very acute edge long enough to be worth it

Skimo, just remembered you put the edge on my 1095 boning knife. I've just had to use a ceramic rod and strop (20 seconds at most) and it is back to nice & sharp.
 
I usually won't go finer than a DMT extra-fine (1200 mesh) or a 1000 grit stone myself with occasional touch-ups on the Spyderco sharpmaker . Relatively fast and easy to do which is important since other members of the household can be rough on the kitchen cutlery. My knives will also cut through crusty bread as well or better then a serrated bread knife although I do keep a a a 5 inch utility knife with fine serrations as well - it's handy to have around in a pinch.
 
I just use my Gatco deluxe diamond sharpening kit, course, medium, fine & ceramic polishing stone. From there on out, just 2-4 swipes on my "Big John Super Stick" ceramic sharpening rod is all it takes. I really love that sharpening stick & for $7, you just cant beat it, it will last forever & cleans right up with a little 3-in-1 oil & a papertowel.
 
When I read the title of this thread, I instantly thought of the Southern delicatessen known by the same name, "grits"! MMmmmm! I want me some grits now!

Sorry, I know this doesn't help you, but if you haven't yet, you should try some! :D
 
Progressively, 120, 220,500, 1200, 3K, 5K, 10K, 0.50mic diamond spray, 0.30mic Al oxide film, 0.25mic diamond spray, plain leather strop.
Obviously, depends on the knife condition where do I start.
Most of the maintenance is limited to last 2-3 steps though, plus, mandatory steeling or stropping before each use, does wonders for edge longevity :)
 
oldschool45 said:
For generic stainless (unknown steel) Henkels etc. I don't usually go much beyond 800 grit and will probably strop & polish. Good Carbon Steel 1095/1084 and so I run all the way up to 4000 grit and strop they will hold that edge long enough to make it worth the effort. I think most mass produced stainless is too soft to hold a very acute edge long enough to be worth it

Skimo, just remembered you put the edge on my 1095 boning knife. I've just had to use a ceramic rod and strop (20 seconds at most) and it is back to nice & sharp.
Click to expand...

Glad to hear it! I still sharpen, not as much anymore, Good to see you're still around. :)
 
Interesting Skimo.
I too, have discovered the same thing. A good sharp knife will cut bread (soft or hard) cleaner than a ripping bread knife.
I have a bread knife that I dearly love. My Grandpa bought it for Grandma before my mother was born. My mother passed away last year at 100 yrs old. So this knife is well over 100+. Still slices bread and tomato's like butter. Never been sharpened. Patina like you would not believe. It is unusal in that it has very fine teeth and each inch of the knife the teeth change direction of cut.

It's been our family's goto knife of choice for slicing bread, and soft things like tomatoes for all out lives.

I recently got interested in belt sharpening as I was never any good with the stones. Bout a HF 1X30 and praticed. Nothing to it. Worked great for me. I sharpened up a chefs knife that was given to us 21 years ago as a present and has never been sharpened on anything other than a steel. After I sharpened it on the sander it returned to even better sharpness than it originally had. I went 600, 800, 1000 and then leather. Since then I have been using it to slice all our bread rather than my old bread knife. It slices easier and cleaner.
I've no idea what brand this chefs knife is, but I think that it is very hard japan steel with a western cut.

I'm now going to give Grandma's old knife to my sister with the understanding that it returns to me, or my daughter, when she dies.
 
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I've been sharpening our kitchen knives with a 180, 220, or 320 grit belt followed by a leather belt on the belt sander. Notice I only use one of the three grits, whichever I have closest. After the power stropping, I don't notice much difference. I did take one from 180, 320, 500, 1200, then power strop. Mirror edge and it lasted a long time, but it was a novelty more than anything. Oh, almost forgot. I have two kitchen knives that just get sharpened on a 250/1000 japanese combination water stone. They get very sharp off that stone and I have them set up so they can be resharpened with about 20 strokes per side per grit, then deburred and they're ready to go. One has had a chipping problem lately, so it's been out of action til I get the chips removed and figure out what's happening.
 
I have gone to 1000 grit on my two custom kitchen knives but they are used only by me so the edge stays nice for a long time. Once is 154CM with the other 1095 carbon. Both do very well with the 1000 grit. For my "family-user" knives I will stop at 320 grit. They take a significant amount of abuse combined with the fact that my Wustof Classics have such poor steel. Even for these I did a 18 degree edge on my Edge Pro and touch up at 20 degree per side as a micro-bevel.
 
I use the Sharpmaker for all my kitchen knives and 1000 grit w/strop for my higher end fixed blade knives.
 
The reason so many people use a big old serrated knife on bread is because the gluten strands in bread tend to be killer on a knife edge. They use more of a saw, as there is less surface area in contact with the loaf, which ends up being a bit easier on the blade.
 
OK, that makes sense to me timbit. Thanks for the info. 1st time I've heard of the correct (I assume) reason for it. I love when I learn something.
But I would only think it would be a concern to a chef who was protecting his favorite knifes edge. But for home, I don't see the need if someone in the home understands sharping and maintaining knives in good condition. I know, I know... That means 95% of homes SHOULD have a bread knife. LOL
 
Try cutting through one of my super crusty sourdough loafs without a blade that has some serious bite (i.e serrations) You end up squishing or ruining the crust. You can also think of a serrated bread knife like a hacksaw. On store bought flimsy, crappy bread it doesn't make a difference. When you eat serious bread like I do (I make all my own bread, using sourdough leaven) it makes a huge difference. My last post was some what misleading, it is more a function of quality of cut than pure blade wear. My gluten comment still stands, its a beach on straight edges.

edit.

In terms of kitchen knives, you can save a bundle by doing the following.

Go to a goodwill store, look for an old German/Swiss slicer (long, thin, narrow blade). Sharpen it up to 500 grit. You'll have a tone of micro serrations that will rip through bread. This amount of bite is great on things like ripe tomatoes and peppers as well, because the micro-serrations really tear through the skin. Granted, the low grit means you'll have to sharpen more often...but who cares the knife was $3.00.

I'll let you into a little secret about my Japanese Gyuto's (chef knives). The first inch or two past the butt of the blade I sharpen up to an 800-1200 grit. The rest of the blade I bring up to 4000-8000 depending on the steel. The first inch of blade gives nice bite to start cutting tomatoes and veg, the rest of the blade slides through the veg like butter. I like to start with a pull cut though, so if you like to start with a push cut, grind the tip less fine. The toughest part of veg is normally getting through the skin, having a less honed partial edge works a treat :)
 
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if my blade is trashed ill start with 400grit diamond stone. Normal touchups and sharpening i go 1000, 4000. And I have a ceramic rod (was taught to never use a steel honing rod) for a quick fix while working.
 
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