what is a good compound for working buckeye

T

The Zodiac

Joined
May 30, 2001
Messages
243
I am going to work with some buckeye that is black with some orange
swirl in it i am worndering what would be the best coumpound to
work with to bring it up to a high shine with out making the black buckeye look dull.
thanks for an input.
:)
 
If it's stabilized, I use white rouge for polishing wood handles. If it isn't atbilized, you need to saturate it with thin super glue to seal it up real good. If you don't get the wood sealed up, when you buff it, the compound embeds into the pores and makes it real dark. Messed up alot of gorgeous desert iron wood before I learned this.
 
first, I'd sand it to about 400g
I'd seal it with tonge oil,
let it dry a couple of days
I use a soft wheel
then choose a color that blends with the color of the wood.(red for rose wood, black for ebony, white for maple, etc.)

I've even mixed to get a pink for some manzanita burl

be careful any compound can be agressive on wood. keep a light touch and keep it moving you'll be fine.

when I've finished I clean the wood with paste wax to remove the polishing compound remaining on the knife.(sometimes it gets worked in and won't come out that's why I match the colors. muddy grey ebony is a terrible thing)

have fun, Eric
 
Thanks for the replys
L6 the wood is stablized,got it from mikes stablizing
he sent me 3 nice blocks he has some nice looking wood
I have with compound just for handles I also have grey/black compound
I haves used on a sisal wheel it is aggressive I got it from k@G
I will pratice on some of the scrapes they I cut away from the blade
and I will see which one will work best.Thanks

:)
 
i use fabulustere compound. it a little finer than a white rouge. the buckeye in my post was done with it. also use a soft muslim wheel. sisal is to hard for wood. i also use renn, wax after the buffing to remove any compound build up. rub by hand.
 
Nathan,
I have found no use whatsoever for the emory cake/black rouge except for rust removal on stuff unrelated to knifemaking. I don't have much use for a sisal wheel either.

Just plain ol' white CR rouge on a sewn wheel is fine for most any handle material as long as its a clean buffing wheel (never used on metal). I finish up lightly with scratchless pink.

C Wilkins
 
I have the best luck with elbow grease compound on porous woods. I hand finish my handle with sandpaper and an old chalk eraser. All the way down to 2,000 grit for the finest polish. Then switch to either sheepskin with the wool left on or heavy wool and linseed oil. Clamp that sucker up in a vice and use the shoeshine method using alot of force to heat the wood up good so it'll take the oil. Keep this up till the wood won't take any more oil. Then let it dry a day or two and buff with clean wool. An army blanket or old wool sock works great.

Yeah, a little time consuming and not as easy as buffing. But the end product is totally without contrast from buffing compounds. When a method you normally use won't work, don't be afraid to try something new. And besides, it adds a personal touch to the knife in my opinion.

But having said all that, synthetic materials go right to the buffer! :D
 
thanks for all the replys,I have a sisal wheel I will never use
that on wood,I use to on steal only.
Max,I seen Bob Ogg in his video use the eraser on his bolster and ivory micarta(I am a bad speller)I am going to work it by hand
I am to nervous this is going to be my fist knife I finish
and I don't want to make a mistake,but if I do I will learn from it
again all the input will really help out a new maker
I am going to try to post a picture of it when I get done if I can figure out how to do it,I may be posting on how to do that
I am pretty excited about finishing my first
Nathan:)
 
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