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What is a good sharpening stone?

T

timbo813

Joined
Jun 24, 2014
Messages
231
I have a sharpmaker that I've been practicing with. It works pretty well and I'm pretty happy with it. But, I'm interested in getting just some normal stones to sharpen with so I can learn how to sharpen free-hand. What would be a good stone to get? I've looked at some different options like Lansky Arkansas stones (hard and soft) or the Smith's Tri-6 Arkansas Stone sharpening system. Am I on the right track with these or are there better options out there for the price? I'd prefer not to pay much over $50 unless it gets me something way better. What do you guys recommend?
 
I use the gatco tri-hone which I'm really happy with it and its very easy to use.
just use mineral oil instead of the oil that comes with the system because the oil smells weird.
 
We really need to know what specific steels you are planning to sharpen as the Arkansas stones will not be a good choice for some steels.

Chris
 
I have some vg10, 1095, and other misc stuff. The hardest stuff I have is a zdp189 delica. What is Arkansas stone not good for?
 
timbo813 said:
I have some vg10, 1095, and other misc stuff. The hardest stuff I have is a zdp189 delica. What is Arkansas stone not good for?
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Arkansas stones would be VERY SLOW on VG-10 and ZDP-189, if attempting to do any heavy grinding, like re-bevelling or repairing damaged edges. They should be fine on the 1095 and similar low-alloy steels. Sometimes, hard black or translucent Arkansas finishing stones can do a nice/decent job in burnishing or gently polishing higher-alloy steels (VG-10, etc), so they could be somewhat useful for that.

For higher-alloy stuff like VG-10, ZDP-189, D2, etc., a simple SiC stone (silicon carbide) or diamond hone will work much better for heavy grinding or re-bevelling jobs, and also much more efficient in creating working edges, whether re-bevelling or not.


David
 
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dmt diasharp stones if you want a mirror polish than get the revised jdavis beginner kit that what i started just get the coarse extra fine and for the finishing touch get a spyderco ultra fine ceramic
 
timbo813 said:
I have some vg10, 1095, and other misc stuff. The hardest stuff I have is a zdp189 delica. What is Arkansas stone not good for?
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For the steels you have I don't think Arkansas stones would be my first recommendation. Arkansas stones are best with carbon steels or softer stainless steels like found on German Kitchen knives. ZDP-189 is on the extreme end of hardness and wear resistance so this would be a real challenge.

You set a budget of $50 unless you can get way better? Well, Arkansas stones are natural stones and as with any natural stone they are slow cutting and work best IMO as a finishing step to a well constructed edge. Used in a progression of natural stones its nostalgic but not much else. A good Arkansas Black or Translucent can easily run $80-$300+ as a single stone so if your whole set is less than $50 what does that tell you?

In todays world of advanced abrasives and stone technology there are WAY better sharpening options than the classic natural Ark stone. Premium Japanese Waterstones such as, Naniwa Professional, Shapton Pro and Glass stone, Nubatama and many more individual one hit wonder stones will easily outperform lansky, Gatco, or Smiths stone sets but these stones can be $50 or more Each. Most 3 stone waterstone sets will run from about $140-$260 depending on quality level of the stone. You can find cheaper stones such as King brand but at that point it's not any better than the Ark sets.

Diamond sharpening plates are another very good option. With the ability to always stay flat and sharpen any steel they are the ideal low maintenance option. Diamond plates apply nice toothy cutting edges too which is ideal for most cutting tools. They work best on hard high alloy steels like your ZDP-189 but will sharpen your VG-10 and 1095 too, though I would recommend a good finishing stone for softer steels as the diamonds are a bit rough on them. A fine waterstone, ceramic, Arkansas or most anything besides diamond will work.

As a professional sharpener I rely on waterstones and Diamond plates on a daily basis. IMO they are the best sharpening tools but like a good knife it does not come cheap.
 
I see a smith 8" diamond trihone on the big river site. It has two different diamond sharpeners and a medium grit Arkansas stone to finish with. The set is $90. Would something like that be good?
 
ichor said:
Use this as a starting point.
http://www.amazon.com/King-47506-1000-Combination-Waterstone/dp/B001DT1X9O

Makes no sense to pop for $150 in Japanese water stones until you figure out what you're doing. The combo stone and lotsa youtube sharpening videos, and practice, practice, practice. You can't do any better than Jon at Japanese Knife Imports.
https://www.youtube.com/user/JKnifeImports
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you think it's worth spending $40 on a king combination or just spend $40-45 on a single higher quality 1000 stone and not worry about the mirror edge? I've read you can get some pretty good edges with just a 1000. Then down the road add another higher grit to finish..
 
worshipNtribute said:
you think it's worth spending $40 on a king combination or just spend $40-45 on a single higher quality 1000 stone and not worry about the mirror edge? I've read you can get some pretty good edges with just a 1000. Then down the road add another higher grit to finish..
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You could do it that way, but I don't think there's anything wrong with King stones for the average sharpener, especially a novice free hander who probably can't tell the difference anyhow. At least not in the beginning. King doesn't have the cachet of more expensive stones, of course, but I think that, in general, tho' there are certain times that a "toothier" edge is good, a more polished edge usually means a sharper
knife. YMMV
 
ichor said:
You could do it that way, but I don't think there's anything wrong with King stones for the average sharpener, especially a novice free hander who probably can't tell the difference anyhow. At least not in the beginning. King doesn't have the cachet of more expensive stones, of course, but I think that, in general, tho' there are certain times that a "toothier" edge is good, a more polished edge usually means a sharper
knife. YMMV
Click to expand...

Sorry but this is novice advice, I don't even know if I can put it in a nice way that this is the logic I fight every day because it leads new sharpeners down a painful learning path.
 
Jason B. said:
Sorry but this is novice advice, I don't even know if I can put it in a nice way that this is the logic I fight every day because it leads new sharpeners down a painful learning path.
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Well, I'll just butt out, since my ignorance causes you so much pain.
 
Since Timbo is on a budget, what about a double sided DMT Diasharp? Im a novice too, but I thought this seemed like a good idea. Here is a double-sided DMT Diasharp Fine/Extra Fine (600 mesh/1200 mesh), 12in X 3in with a base for $164.95. http://www2.knifecenter.com/item/DMTD12EFWB/dmt-d12ef-wb-12-diasharp-double-sided-bench-stone-fine-extra-fine-with-base

There are also some 10in X 4in DMT Duosharps that come in Course/Fine (325 mesh/1200 mesh), or Fine/Extra Fine (600 mesh/1200 mesh) that can be had for about $130.00 or less.

Maybe a more knowledgeable member can chime in about what might be the best combination if you could only have one. If diamond stones cut so fast, I dont think you would need the course stone and get by ok with the fine/extra fine. Then again course/extra fine stones are also available.

Also, and I dont mean to hijack this thread; is there anything wrong with double-sided stones? And, is a Diasharp better than a Duosharp?
 
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