What is flash normalizing?

T

tony moyer

Joined
Feb 23, 2003
Messages
102
I forged my fist two 1084 blades yesterday and was starting on my third until I got rained out by a thunderstorm.

I forged them at below critical and then would bring them up to normalizing heat then let them cool to back to magnetic than start forging again.

Is this flash normalizing?

Thanks for your help.

Tony
 
Tony: that is what I call flash normalizing. After all forging is done I do that twice then then full-normalize to room temperature, then heat it back up and let it cool to room temp in your forge for a blade smiths anneal. One thing that seems to refine grain is to quench the blade in quenching oil(room temp is ok) 3 or 4 times during the forging process. Please let us know how how the knives come out.
 
Thanks for the help Ed.

Is the quench done at forging temp or nonmagnetic?I've got 30ft of this steel to play with so I plan destroying and experimenting with the first 20 or so blades,give me lots of practice on the grinder too.

Tony
 
Tony: Heat to non magnetic and quench, don't let it cool before you quench, it can still be non magnetic and yet too cool for proper hardening on the down side. I am very pleased to note that you plan on testing blades to destruction, that is the only way to learn. One thing, be sure to etch all of your blades before you test, soon you will be able to predict performance on the tale the etch can reveal. If you don't have any texaco type "A" quenching oil, Rick Baum (Baumer on the forms) still has some for sale, if he is out, Shane Justice will have some.
 
Thanks for all your help Ed,got your book Knife Talk in the mail today,answers a lot of questions.

Thank you
Tony
 
Tony: You are most welcome, it is an absolute joy to communicate with knife makers who want to learn by doing. My second book, Knife Talk II will be out for the Blade Show next month, we hope. There is another book in the works also, maybe in a year or so.

Thanks and Take Care Friend
 
Hi Ed, I got some of the Teaco Type A from Rick and have been playing with it for several months testing it out on blades. My question is on the oils temp. at quench. I understand you use the oil at 165 degrees. Is this correct? I used it for 440C (triple quench & temper we discussed before, "why the long soak" thread) but, the temp had to be dropped to 100 degrees before I got the "file" hardness I got use to with the regular motor oil/ATF mix. I also dropped the temp down for 1095 since it is a faster quench steel. When I used 1095 and quenched at 155-165 I never got as distinctive an edge or as clear a temper line. These are my observations but, any comment would be appreciated. I'm trying to use a better quench to make a better blade, I hope I'm going in the right direction.
 
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