What is l used m BK-16 for today

plumberroy

plumberroy

Joined
Jan 27, 2007
Messages
3,474
A while back someone broke into our church barn (3rd time) they ended up getting caught at the construction site beside us .they left the tools they used to pry the siding off the back of the barn on the bench. One of the things they left was a beat up Norlund voyager hatchet. Today I sat down and whittled the handle I picked up to fit it. I cut an inch and a half off after getting the head to set where I wanted it.
I made a donation to the youth group for the hatchet the handle came from a member of bushcraft USA. I still have work to do on it

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I am one more vintage axe from having every axe I want. I am still looking for a vintage single bit Michigan pattern boys axe. This gives me a mini hatchet, I have Michigan pattern axes in full size single and double bits I have a Michigan pattern cruiser DBL bit . My full size double bit was bought by my Uncle Ray in 1939-40.
 
The BK16 is such a sweet knife, hence the moniker Sweet 16.

The 16 is really the quintessential outdoorsman's/woodsman's carry fixed blade ... and at a price point a woodsman can afford. It punches above its weight.
 
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It sure does. I bought that lot of axes, a small wooden box, and a small push mower for $2. People were just trying to get rid of stuff. They thought the mower was locked up, but the cord was caught on a metal tab. Fixed it in within 15 minutes, and it started right up. Used it for probably 5 years. I got that stuff when I was 23 years old. 58 now. Axes are still in the shed.
 
The one on the left is a "Genuine Norlund" . The double bit has an oval, with the brand "Kelly" on it, with "the world's" above the oval, and "finest" on the bottom of it. It also says "tru-temper" on it. The next small one I can't see anything on, I haven't cleaned them yet. And the last one also has the true-temper logo on it.
 
Think I'm up to 15. There are a couple I'd like to move along, and my final collecting piece - a Connecticut pattern in good condition - is waiting in the shop to be cleaned up and hafted.
 
Kelly, True Temper, Vulcan, Black Raven are all Kelly brands . Along with dozens of hardware store house brands were made in Charleston W.V. close to the place I call home. I have a double bit marked Kelly, True Temper and Vulcan my uncle bought new pre WWII a paper label Kelly Cruiser DBL bit and a true temper flint edge Dayton pattern boys axe .
 
I remember tools called Tru-Temper, that were True Value hardware store exclusives, iirc. I wonder if it's the same for the axes? Or perhaps they were their own brand and I just associated it with True Value, because they were sold there.
 
I don’t have a good axe..😪
Nobody’s fault but my own.
Unless I find something super cool I’ll buy the big Fiskars this Summer. It performs.
 
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The Warrior The Warrior …

Those Gransfors are so neat!

I bought a 20” Hultafors a few months ago, and it’s such a beautiful thing. I slimmed the edge down a little, and I enjoyed the process so much I ran out and scavenged a few relic/excavated heads to practice with. I’ve finished three, and have four more on the table, with another dozen heads in various stages. The first were mostly no-names, but now I’ve got a few Worth and Homestead, among others. Most of them were just a brick of rust, with the back, top, or bottom so peened-over that I needed to smooth them out and then rough-up the finish again to hide it. I think the most rewarding part is filing the front edge flat, and sometimes that’s pretty deep to get past all the chips and dents, then slowly bring the edge back. There are a number of things that I did on those first ones that I wouldn’t do again. Learning experience. I figured my first attempts would be garbage. I already sent those first three to a buddy in Fort Collins CO and he’s using them…says they’re holding up so far…!

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NWFRS said:
The Warrior The Warrior …

Those Gransfors are so neat!

I bought a 20” Hultafors a few months ago, and it’s such a beautiful thing. I slimmed the edge down a little, and I enjoyed the process so much I ran out and scavenged a few relic/excavated heads to practice with. I’ve finished three, and have four more on the table, with another dozen heads in various stages. The first were mostly no-names, but now I’ve got a few Worth and Homestead, among others. Most of them were just a brick of rust, with the back, top, or bottom so peened-over that I needed to smooth them out and then rough-up the finish again to hide it. I think the most rewarding part is filing the front edge flat, and sometimes that’s pretty deep to get past all the chips and dents, then slowly bring the edge back. There are a number of things that I did on those first ones that I wouldn’t do again. Learning experience. I figured my first attempts would be garbage. I already sent those first three to a buddy in Fort Collins CO and he’s using them…says they’re holding up so far…!

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Super cool!
 
Jonny1280 Jonny1280 …

Thanks! I think so! It’s been a super fun process, and there’s really nothing specialized that’s required to get started. I’m learning what NOT to do very quickly, but I’m not unhappy with those first ones. I’ve got some old roofing and shingle hatchets on the bench right now as well. So many fun and inexpensive ways to get going…
 
Second batch receiving a few final coats of BLO and wax. I’ll mail them down to the same buddy in Fort Collins. (Childhood school buddy that I’ve known for almost thirty years) He has friends and associates that will actually put them to use. As much as I like them, I know I won’t use them, and I don’t want to become a collector. I’ll keep my little 20” Hultafors just in case one of our trees falls in the backyard…

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