What is the easiest grind for a new maker to start learning?

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Dec 5, 2009
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Hey guys.

As soon as my little shop is built this coming monday, and I get all my tools, I'm going to start my first stock removal blade.

What is the easiest grind to start learning on? I plan on making primarily hunter/skinner knives. Thanks for the help.
 
being a beginner myself I would have to say a basic flat grind would be the easiest to do. Not sure what tools you are getting so list them up and the experts can help you better then I can
 
Sorry, I actually posted that too soon lol :)

Here is what I will have in my shop to start:

Craftsman 2x42
HF or Grizzly 1x30
Benchtop Drill Press
Bench wheel grinder
8" harbor freight buffer
Dewalt PortaBand in stand

Also, whatever assorted files and sandpaper thats recommended on the forum.

I will be sending my blades out for heat treat then eventually work towards doing it myself.

I thought a flat grind would be the easiest, perhaps with a convex edge. Are scandi grinds used on hunter/skinner type knives or are they primarily used for bushcraft?
 
Well, it doesn't look like you're really equipped for a smooth hollow grind. So you're looking at Flat, Scandi, Convex and Chisel.

I'd say design a different knife for each grind. Some grinds are just naturally easier to some people and not other people. The only way to know for sure is to give each a try.

Don't work delicately or with fear of messing up. Just work. If your new knife ends up in the scrap pile, then it ends up in the scrap pile. No biggie. Reprofile it for a different design or just start over. We've all been there.
 
I'm a beginner too and I'm going to start with a flat grind but I've got a Grizzly 2x72 and a Bubble Jig from Fred Rowe.
 
Part of me really wants to get that grizzly 2x72 instead of getting the Craftsman 2x42. But I don't know if I should get it now, or wait a while.

I am also going to get one of those bubble jigs....they look like one of those MUST HAVE shop tools.
 
If you do a search you will find a number of threads which will help you get started. I'm sure that like all of us when starting, you will end up with a bucket full of rejects before you get the grinding technique down to what you are satisfied with. For this reason I would recommend that you start out on inexpensive material.

Once you feel reasonably confident in your grinding abilities I would pick out one particular steel and stick with it. Since different steels work differently it's easy to get confused or discouraged by using a multitude of different ones at the start. Since you will be sending out your blades for H/T, you will find that it is much easier to find someone to H/T them with an air quench steel. Do some research on the more popular knife steels before investing in your stock. Most knife making skills you will learn by experience but if you need help with the basics don't hesitate in asking. There are no secrets in making a knife and most experienced makers are quite willing to share.

Good luck and enjoy.

Gary
 
If you have the coin for the 2X72 go for it, buy something less would just be a waste of money other wise. I am still working mainly with files and have done 4 flat grinds and am working on my first scandi grind at the moment. I have a Mastercraft 1X30 that I mainly use for profiling my blanks and doing handles on. I did use it to rough in the scandi grind thought. Didn't work too badly, but I still had to clean it up with a file. the edge is a little thin now, but I will just back it up a bit with the 1X30 after I get the sanding done to 400.
I am currently stashing money to buy the grinder in a box kit. Once I get that the 1X30 will only be used for handles and rough sharpening.
 
I'd say that a slack belt convex grind is probably the most forgiving. Not necessarily the easiest to do well, but probably the easiest to do without obvious mistakes showing.
 
Are there any tutorials or vids on youtube that show how to start the plunge when grinding? I've seen some info but I am more apt to understand if I see someone do it or see a written out method.

For instance, on some grinds, how does one get that nice curved corner at the top of the plunge before it makes its way along the blade?
 
There are a couple videos out there that are better than DVDs I've paid for. One of my favorites is Wayne Jarrett's Grinding the Jarrett Knives EDC. Jarrett actually has a whole series on making knives that is really well done. Fred Rowe's Bubble Jig Basics videos are also very clear and well made. If you don't have a Bubble Jig, it's still worth watching because he is doing a freehand grind. The Bubble Jig just removes the guesswork.
 
Out of all the grinds, I'd have to say that flat grinds are definitely the easiest to do.

I started out doing convex grinds and they're a lot harder than most people would expect. It seems simple enough, just round the bevel over and whammo, but doing them correctly actually take a TON of practice and some serious talent. One of the most important things about convex grinds is getting the thickness and taper right. You really have to get those grinds as thin as you can. Then you've got the plunge and the line on the top of the bevel to worry about. You have to be careful to leave all the steel at the spine and if you vary your stance or get heavy handed anywhere in your grind (which is very common and easy to do) your lines will come out wrong and you'll really have to work at it to bring them back. Plus, all of the stuff I'm talking about is from experience using a KMG, so using anything less than that, it's even harder to get everything right.

Hollow grinds are somewhere in the middle as far as ease goes. Once you get your bevels started, it's really just a matter of watching your pressure and keeping you plunge clean. The big issue that you run into with hollow grinds is having the correct wheels to do them. I know that you can get away with using the wrong wheel for the job, Ian Van Reenen proved that to me, but you've got to be a salty dog to pull it off. I had Ian make a knife for me that would have required a 14" wheel and he managed to pull it off with, if I remember correctly, a 10" wheel. Ian is really great at grinding by eye so he did a great job, but any maker with less experience would have had a seriously tough time. As long as you have the right wheels for the size grinds you're doing, it's just a matter of practice and actually comes relatively quickly.

Flat grinds are something I wish that I had tried in the very beginning. Although, they might have spoiled me. I never even bothered to try one out until recently, because I was so determined to learn and become proficient with convex grinds. It was just a few weeks ago, I threw the platen on the KMG just to see how easy it was. I seriously stood there for a minute when I was done and thought, "AH HA! Now I know why everyone does flat grinds!" I'm not saying it doesn't take any skill or practice, and I realize that this is coming from someone who had prior experience with other grinds, but still, I was amazed at how quick and easy it was. Now I'm not trying to take the wind out of the maker's sails that do flat grinds. I don't want you to think that every maker out there who does them does "easy work" Most of the guys that do them well have put a lot of time into PERFECTING the flat grind and there's a lot more talent that goes into it than would be immediately evident. For example, choosing the angles at which they grind their bevels and maintaining those angles, doing a correct plunge, choosing the correct point to sharpen, proper steel selection and heat treat, etc., but as far as a grind that I believe will come quicker to the beginner, I think flat grinds would be the best to start with if you want good ego boosting results in less time.

Something to keep in mind is that I am one person and all of this is just my opinion. Plus, I'm still a new maker myself. I ground my first knife a little over a year ago and I'm still learning and adjusting. Hell, I might be giving the worst advice in the world. One thing I would recommend doing right off the bat is trying the different grinds and seeing which one you think you want to do. Do several blades with each grind. Then, get some feedback. All of the makers on here are super cool guys and are willing to help out newbies like us. Take pointers from them and get plenty of grinder time in.

As far as your equipment, as someone else already said, if you have the dough to go ahead and snatch up a good 2x72 grinder, do it. I wasted a lot of time working with smaller machines I had the money for. It wasn't until I got my KMG that I really started to see things come together. Having the right grinder makes all the difference in the learning process.

Have fun and happy grinding brother!
 
As a n00b myself, I'm finding a full flat grind to be the most forgiving.
Then again I'm draw filing mine, so with a grinder it may be different.
 
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