What is the easiest way to do scales?

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Feb 12, 2001
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I have a couple pieces of G-10, and a peice of CF. All large enough chunks to give me both scales on the knife. Doing a SS Cricket(spyderco, 03 model) with 1/8" g-10 to get rid of the thinness and add grip.

My current plan(when I get it all up here) is to cut them down to a rough size, 5min-epoxy them on(after roughing up scales), and shape with files and sandpaper.

is there an easier way to go about it?
 
If its a knife you plan on using you might want to consider using more than epoxy to hold the scales on. I did just that with a blank that I was putting stag scales on, and as I was working them they kept coming off. No great loss, you live and you learn. After making my mess I came here, and did a bit of research, and guess what? You need pins to hold the sclase on, even if they don't go all the way through the scale.

Are you planning on taking the knife apart to put the scales on? If you don't I think it would be almost impossible to get them together correctly. In your case you might be able to use torx screws to hold the scales on. HTH.
 
Sounds like you have it figured out. One thing though, be REAL careful working with that stuff. It can hurt you real bad, permanently.
Buy a vapor canister respirator(organic vapor cartridges, get dust pre filters, and cover as much skin as you can. After, do a thorough cleanup.
 
ErikD> I'd prefer not to take the knife apart, as I'd mess up the tension put in by factory. It's going to be a user, and I asked a guy that gave me the inspiration for it (did 2 for himself so far, delica and dragonfly, both wood) and he's beat on the lab-rat he did first... JB Weld epoxy, he dropped the blank with newly attatched scales(1hr hardened) from 12feet, about a half dozen times... they weren't going anywhere.

Mike Hull> I'm just checking with the pro's as to the best way to go at it. As stated above, another guy gave me the inspiration for it, and I asked him for details. He's done 2 with the same procedure, both rivited models, and they worked out for him. Rather make sure it's the best/right way to do it. What better place to ask than here?
I'll make sure to pick up a resperator with the right filter. I had planned to work outside in the yard, but as close as it'll be to my face, it's a good idea. What brand/model do you recommend? I have cash to play with, and I may as well get the right one as I'll be doing at least 3 customized knives with g-10 and CF.

John Andrews> I've worked with enough toxic mist from cleaning solutions that I figure my skin is tough enough to irratate(try 7 months breathing degreaser working maintanence at BurgerKing, and another 4 months working dish-bit&#99h at a 24/7 resturaunt and cleaning with bleach, degreaser and comet without gloves at all). I can pack up the dust in a ziplock and ship to you if you REALLY want... no problems at all (now why don't we have an "evil grin" smily?)
 
Personally, I like the 3M 6000 series, mainly because the cartridges are angled back, out of my view, which also makes it easier to wear a face shield, if needed. But as far as which works the best, they all have to meet certain standards, so it's mainly what appeals to you.
 
But get that CF and G-10 particles (and vapour) into your lungs and bad #$%@ can be happening. Depending on how you grind, you can end up with little glass fibre particles "shot" into your skin. They tend to stay there and give an awful itch - like you got fleas or something... A lot of guys (me included) are scared of the stuff and tend to get "dressed up" for a session with G-10 or CF. Jason.
 
So do you guys think it is feasible to cut and shape Micarta and CF for aftermarket customization with only a Dremel tool and some sand paper???? Thanks in advance
 
Mike Hull> We use 3M at work, have to check the model #. They have twin filters, just under 90deg from each other, and the only thing you see is the top of the nose cover. Can fit goggles over without any probs.

Jason Cutter> I've had fibreglass particles in my skin already... was pretty annoying for a few days. I know the warnings about working unprotected with CF and G-10 are spread like wildfire. Had no plans as to working unprotected, but I had figured a mask for painting and latex gloves would work. Mike has convinced me to go further on the mask.

TBG> I'm using small diamond files and wet/dry paper. I'll probably use the dremel for the initial shaping to get it down to size.
 
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