What is the proper tool for removing pivit pins from a Buck 110?

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I broke the tip off one of the knives I was working on in a rather scarry grab and toss incident on one of my high powered machines. :eek::eek: After finding no unexplained holes or leaks in my body I regained my composure. :D

So, first question is where in the heck is that last 3/4 inch of the Buck 110 blade????? :o I have been looking for two days.....

Next question is - What is the correct tool for removing the pivot pin on a Buck 110? I used a Drive Pin Punch but it slightly deformed the pin on the side I was hammering. Now that I have done it twice (remove the broken blade and substituted one from a regular brass bolstered 110) I found it was not all that tough to do. I am thinking I would like to use some of the beautiful Damascus blades on some of my top end Custom knives now so I want to have the real correct tools to do it perfectly.

I really like tools and buying the best tools possible especially if they are made in the USA. So, if you can let me know the exact and corect tools I would apprecaite it and I would appreciate it even more if you know of a USA tool maker for the tool(s).

Thank you -
 
So, first question is where in the heck is that last 3/4 inch of the Buck 110 blade????? I have been looking for two days.....

I would say it's a good thing that after two days you are still able to type....sounds like a scary slip! :eek:

I really like tools and buying the best tools possible especially if they are made in the USA. So, if you can let me know the exact and corect tools I would apprecaite it and I would appreciate it even more if you know of a USA tool maker for the tool(s).

I know this feeling. Having quality tools just makes working on things a real pleasure.

I hope to end up with one of your knives someday and a Damascus blade would be a nice feature. You are a real artist with stone!! :thumbup:

I can't answer your question about the proper tool for pivot pin removal, but am looking forward to seeing a reply from someone who knows.
 
I've never done this, but I suspect the way to get it out with the least risk of damage is to use an arbor press. Fit the arbor with a pin slightly smaller than the one in the knife. Have the knife on a piece of aluminum or oak with the pin over a hole just slightly bigger. Then push it out.
 
Are you trying to re-use the same pins? I have changed several blades but allways use a new pin made from brass rod stock. the pin is left a little long, say 3/16 inch on each side, and peined down with the ball end of a 8oz hammer. This forms a nice tight friction fit of the pin and bolster preventing loosening from lateral pressure that will be applied while sharpening or heavy usage.. The bolsters need to be re-finished after blade change. I can't see how one would re-use a pin and get a tight friction fit that would last..

here's one I did....






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Good idea, Sit. Makes sense to replace the pin, since it would certainly be a lot easier to work with a piece that's slightly longer than it needs to be when finished.
 
I've never done this, but I suspect the way to get it out with the least risk of damage is to use an arbor press. Fit the arbor with a pin slightly smaller than the one in the knife. Have the knife on a piece of aluminum or oak with the pin over a hole just slightly bigger. Then push it out.

Arbor press, agreed. Pounding it out with a hammer and pin works of course, but the press will do it easier and with less risk. Problem is most people don't have one. I think it would be possible to use a bench vise like an arbor press. Mount a pin on one jaw and a block with a hole on the other. Line up the pin, pivot and hole and close the vise. It should push out the pin just like the arbor press would.
 
1/8" punch and a hammer is the fastest way to do it. A 1" metal block with a 3/8" hole in it with a piece of micarta on top of the block to protect the knife some. There are several steps to properly replace a blade. I am too lazy to type it all out but you can call me and I will explain everything as taught by Leroy Remer.

Eric
 
#2




arksknives







KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider


Join Date: Jan 2004Location: ColoradoPosts: 311




Just use a hammer and 1/8" punch and drive the pin out. I have a steel block with a 3/8" hole in it to do that. The 1/8" pin stock can be bought from numerous knife supply companies. Jantz is a good one. When you knock the pin out, you need to file the inside of the bolsters where the pin was. Then lay the blade back in the knife and use the ball end of a ball pien hammer and ping the holes on both sides until there is a divot all around the hole. This eliminates ring around the rivet. Lightly oil the blade where it goes inside the knife and insert the new pin. Then you hammer it down until tight. Lots of steps to do it correctly.


www.arksknives.com
BCCI Lifetime Member #1698
something like this ?
found in the link I posted above......
 
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