What Is The Proper Way To Nurture Old Stones?

NRA

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Feb 15, 2014
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I purchased an old Norton tri hone set. IM303

The guy said he used WD40 as his honing oil.

I am thinking possibly going to water.

How should I clean these up? They show no noticeable wear.
 
I purchased an old Norton tri hone set. IM303

The guy said he used WD40 as his honing oil.

I am thinking possibly going to water.

How should I clean these up? They show no noticeable wear.

Clean up usually involves allowing some light oil to sit on the surface for a few minutes, agitate with a fingertip, and wipe off with a rag. Boiling the oil out of them would be the next step if you wanted to convert to water, but is not a good idea in my opinion - they work a lot better used with a light oil such as mineral oil or WD40.

You can use them with soapy water without boiling first and this will give you an idea of how it works without permanently removing the factory oil job.

Martin
 
NRA, I've not heard of a 303 Tri-Hone system. I have heard of a 313 Norton Tri-Hone system which is excellent. I have that system. If the previous owner said he used WD-40 that is what I'd use. It is mostly a lighter mineral oil and cleans up easily. Just spray some on and use a bristle brush or wire brush, to work and loosen any swarf then wipe the stone off with a cloth rag. They should be good to go. Using oil will give you better feed back and a finer edge. If your stones are in good shape and level that system is worth over a hundred. DM
 
Clean up usually involves allowing some light oil to sit on the surface for a few minutes, agitate with a fingertip, and wipe off with a rag. Boiling the oil out of them would be the next step if you wanted to convert to water, but is not a good idea in my opinion - they work a lot better used with a light oil such as mineral oil or WD40.

You can use them with soapy water without boiling first and this will give you an idea of how it works without permanently removing the factory oil job.

Martin

I agree with Martin. I very seldom use oilstones, (usually on gunsmithing projects) but when I do, I use an old can of "Buck honing oil." I don't know if this is still available, but it certainly floats the swarf off of the stone.
 
NRA, I've not heard of a 303 Tri-Hone system. I have heard of a 313 Norton Tri-Hone system which is excellent. I have that system. If the previous owner said he used WD-40 that is what I'd use. It is mostly a lighter mineral oil and cleans up easily. Just spray some on and use a bristle brush or wire brush, to work and loosen any swarf then wipe the stone off with a cloth rag. They should be good to go. Using oil will give you better feed back and a finer edge. If your stones are in good shape and level that system is worth over a hundred. DM

I had the wrong model number. Yes, it is a 313.
 
NRA, Good. That system is just tops in my book. The stones are of generous size and make the grind work go faster. Mine is from 1979-80 when it came with a metal box with a carrying handle and poly reservoir. Making it very transportable and the stones will cut any steel. Plus, you can procure diamond stones that fit your holder which I did. I'm certain I'll not wear out these stones in my lifetime. Good Sharpening, DM
 
My case is plastic, and the well has a crack. Someone tried to repair it with silicone, but I doubt it would hold an oil bath.
 
Your case is most likely black. It probably won't hold oil. Get the silicone off and go back with epoxy. That may seal it. I normally use oil only on the stone then wipe it off after sharpening. So, my reservoir is just used to catch the drips. DM
 
I think I will take your advice and use the base for drip control only.
 
After a long time use of WD 40 on a stone I wouldn't even consider attempting to convert it to water honing. The pores of the stone are going to have a heavy buildup of "resin" from the WD 40. I would soak the stone in a solvent like lacquer thinner and then resurface it on some 80 grit paper and then start using hone oil on it.
 
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