What is this sharpening stone?

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Sep 3, 2014
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I picked these up today for $1 each. The long one I have seen before, but don't know what it is. Some kind of scythe stone? Looks like sandstone. The other though, I have no idea. It looks coarse, and maybe it isn't even a sharpening stone, but I bet it is. Any idea what it's specific shape is intended for?

Also, wondering if it would be cool to start a sharpening thread. Not methods so much as sharpening tools of various types. Just to show off the variety, might be fun.

 
they look like carbide something stones to true sharpening stones and grinding weels
 
The one that is shaped like an iron looks like some sort of scouring stone not necessarily a grinding stone.



Also, wondering if it would be cool to start a sharpening thread. Not methods so much as sharpening tools of various types. Just to show off the variety, might be fun.


Good idea. I have several interesting old stones and I'm always on the watch for them.
 
I am also a sharpening stone junky.

I have resisted the Japanese water stones for years but I feel my resolve weakening.
 
I am also a sharpening stone junky.
I have resisted the Japanese water stones for years but I feel my resolve weakening.
25+ years now that I switched over to Japanese water stones and all of my previous oil & natural stone versions got tossed not all that long after. Truing these is easy too; rub over a piece of emery cloth secured to a flat surface such as saw table/jointer bed or piece of glass.
 
The one on the right looks like an "American pattern" scythe stone.
 
25+ years now that I switched over to Japanese water stones and all of my previous oil & natural stone versions got tossed not all that long after. Truing these is easy too; rub over a piece of emery cloth secured to a flat surface such as saw table/jointer bed or piece of glass.

It seems that every one I have talked to is saying the same thing. Its silly of me to hang onto the old stones just for tradition. I do love a natural stone but some of the water stones are mined also. No excuses.
 
The one on the left,
I’ve seen tillers using something similar for ‘flattening’ floors when laying tiles
 
I am also a sharpening stone junky.

I have resisted the Japanese water stones for years but I feel my resolve weakening.

I have a big King 1000/6000 stone that I got unused for a buck. Its great for finishing knives, I'm afraid to use it on an axe. Kind of soft, don't want to waste it on an axe, do we really need 6000 grit? Carving hatchets maybe? I know, sometimes it isn't about need, but I'm not shaving with my boys axe. Paul Sellers says that 300 grit is great for most chisels and planes so I'm OK usually with up to 1000 most of the time. Speaking from limited experience.
 
Scouring stone, that's interesting. The shape must be for something, and it isn't pumice, so not sure. I bought it not far from the original Ames factory in Easton Ma, so my mind went to shovels. I have no clue.
 
I have a big King 1000/6000 stone that I got unused for a buck. Its great for finishing knives, I'm afraid to use it on an axe. Kind of soft, don't want to waste it on an axe, do we really need 6000 grit? Carving hatchets maybe? I know, sometimes it isn't about need, but I'm not shaving with my boys axe. Paul Sellers says that 300 grit is great for most chisels and planes so I'm OK usually with up to 1000 most of the time. Speaking from limited experience.

I'm with you on this. For me the 1000 grit gets (by a country mile) the most use. The 4000/6000s are like chalk and used solely to hone fine knife blades, and one specific 3/4" chisel (my dedicated door hinge installer). Have never gone beyond using an axe file to sharpen an axe and I'll be darned if splitting mauls ever receive more than a portable grinder touch up.
 
The one on the left,
I’ve seen tillers using something similar for ‘flattening’ floors when laying tiles

Now that I think of it an old timer (cement finisher from the 1960s) lent me his journeyman tool kit 3 decades ago and told me the shaped man-made stone in there was to scour the highs off green concrete and to clean up corners and edges immediately after forms were stripped.
 
I have a big King 1000/6000 stone that I got unused for a buck. Its great for finishing knives, I'm afraid to use it on an axe. Kind of soft, don't want to waste it on an axe, do we really need 6000 grit? Carving hatchets maybe? I know, sometimes it isn't about need, but I'm not shaving with my boys axe. Paul Sellers says that 300 grit is great for most chisels and planes so I'm OK usually with up to 1000 most of the time. Speaking from limited experience.

I have a 6000 grit hard Arkansas stone that I regularly use on axes. I'll even take them to 8000 or higher with razor hones. At that point it's not about sharpening. 2000 is plenty sharp (1000?). But a finer polish retains the edge better because at the microscopic level there's less surface area for oxidation.
 
I love stones too, and have several oil stones and water stones I've used over the years. Though I sharpen some sort of blade most every day I haven't used a stone in years. I now use wet or dry sandpaper on a backer plate and have never looked back!

The odd looking stone, like stated, is more than likely a carborundum rubbing stone. They are used to finish the edges of green concrete once the forms are removed.
 
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