What is your latest evaluation of the scandi vs convex debate?

U

ukknifer

Joined
Jan 30, 2010
Messages
424
Hi all,

I have both and like both its hard to decide which is better. I also have been reading about this debate for a long time now.

What is your latest conclusion on this? Have you learned to like one over the other? through experience?

I would like to hear from people who used both hard. Based on experience not theory.

Thanks
 
I greatly prefer convex. in fact all my blades now sport a convex edge at least. I find it very easy to maintain in the field as well as less prone to chipping and rolling of the edge.

Both are sharp as blazes and cut with practicaly no resistance though convex has far less tendency to stick. Convex also works way better in processing game than scandi grinds.

Convex is also less time consuming to sharpen since you are not working the whole flat.
 
I guess I've come to like both equally. As long as it's sharp...

P.S. You should specify what kind of convex edge you are talking about. Scandi-convex, saber-convex, full-convex...

I would think if you were comparing convex to scandi, you should be talking about Scandi-convex, other wise the other two would be better compared to full flat or saber-flat.
 
I think each has a niche , If I had to choose one it would be full to zero convex.
 
I prefer convex for larger blades, or ones that will be used harder then the others. (With me that is most) but I really do like Scandis for finer work.
 
They both can function well, but the performance will depend on edge geometry.

A very thin Scandi can be fragile but slice quite well.

An overly thick Scandi might be tough, though not worth a damn for cutting.

Likewise, convex edges come with many different geometries.


The steel, the heat treatment, and the intended use must also be factored into the equation.





Big Mike
 
Just my experience, I have never used anything that bites into wood like the Scandi as far as edge geometry. I like to use it for carving and such. I tend to prefer the convex edge for my hard use knives. They will still carve, just not quite as well, and they seem to be tougher.

Again, nothing earth shaking. Same as most folks seem to be saying.

Doc
 
i much prefer a convex grind, while it may not work wood quite as well i find it to be much more versatile and far easier to maintain
 
I love my scandi knives when they have a microbevel. I can't use zero ground anymore.
While convex quite as accurate when doing intricate carving (for me), they're great and do hold an edge much longer. Mainly using my F1 as a reference point here.

For my scandis, I carry a ceramic rod and give the microbevel a few licks each side, which brings back the edge quick smart.
 
I am a devout fan of the scandi blade.. In my experience it serves me wel for wod craft and game duty.. I can get it razor sharp easily with minimal equipment, and find it fairly easy to maintain through stropping..
However in a chopping style blade convex is the way to go.
 
I prefer convex over any other grind for everything.
I'm about say something very taboo, I even prefer a convex for carving.:eek: Oh no, call the scandi police.:D
But honestly I'm just glad to see people actually use their knives no matter what the grind is.
Iz
 
G'day UKKnifer

ukknifer said:
...
Based on experience not theory.
Click to expand...

Rest assured, that's the only opinion I'm prepared to offer :D

In my experience, a zero ground scandi is an exceptional performer on straight grained softwoods. After all, look at the woods available in the countries where the grind originated and the type of wood available to Mr Korchanski (another advocate of the Scandi grind) :thumbup:

A scandi that has a thicker primary bevel added is stronger than a zero grind. :thumbup:

However, straight grained softwoods is not something I have available in the bush here in Australia (infact, the exact opposite is the case).

I haven't used a zero grind scandi for over 20 years (I got sick & tired of removing chips & rolls from them when used on the genuine hardwoods that we have over here). :D

I use a convex egde and to be honest, can't see myself using anything else :thumbup:

Bear in mind OMMV depending on the woods they have available locally :thumbup:



Kind regards
Mick
 
ukknifer said:
I have both and like both its hard to decide which is better.
Click to expand...

I take both camping - my Mora can handle carving wood (mostly soft woods around here like white pine or douglas fir) and my convex grind knives can handle everything else. For chopping or batoning or food prep I'll generally go with a convex edged knife, over all I prefer the convex for everything except for carving wood.
 
I'm a fan of scandi's but when I get a new one, I strop it to give it a slight convex edge. To me, it seems to give the edge a little more strength and less prone to roll or ding.
 
after reading LMT posts... I guess that's why I'm getting "exceptional performance" out of a scandi ...I am putting a slight convex microbevel on through stropping I suppose.
 
I appreciate scandi's for their ability to do detail work, but I generally prefer convex blades. As Mick points out, the type of wood you use has a lot of bearing on it and knotty, hardwood is never that much fun to work with (on any knife) but if you have to work it, better to have a convex blade.

Another factor is I really did wait a long time before getting a scandi, so much of my experience in carving wood and making fuzzies was with a convex and as easy as scandi's are to work with, I really have to overcome my muscle memory when using a scandi. With a convex you have to maintain the angle of the knife while cutting while on the scandi you rest the knife on the bevel. I think if you are just beginning and using the two blades you will find the scandi much easier. However, I'm always fighting with my own instincts when using a scandi.

Last thing I really hate doing with a scandi (partly because my scandi blade is a bit too thick of spine than it should be) is making the notch out of my fireboard. Its a huge PITA when the bevel kicks the edge out of the notch while carving it. So you have to work it with the tip of the knife. Invariable, I end up starting the notch with my scandi if I'm using it and then finishing it with my SAK blade. With a full flat or convex I can make the notch perfect and with ease everytime.

All said and done, I probably don't have any more scandi-beveled knives in my future...
 
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