What kind of epoxy do you use?

ROCK6

ROCK6

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Feb 8, 2004
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Just curious as to types of epoxy several of you are using. I have a few pojects; wood, metal, ferrorods and even some nylon. I went to Lowes the other day and there are several types...just wondering what type do you use for your various projects; looking for a good adhesive (of course) that's waterproof and can withstand typcial Texas temperatures, thanks:D:thumbup:

ROCK6
 
It totally depends on what kind of project you are working on. For small stuff with nuts and bolts I tend to use Red Loc-Tite. For repairs only or for a good, quick fix that won't break, I use Gorilla Glue. For most other projects, I will use JB Weld. There is also one available at Wal-Mart that is in the 'hypodermic' type needle thinger that works well and I cannot think of the name right now.And...if it is just a wood project, you can't go wrong with plain Elmer's wood glue. Hope it helps.


PeACE
Dougo
 
Thanks guys; I have some JB Weld...hadn't even though to use it:o

ROCK6
 
Hey Rock, I've used them all and settled on Loctite extra time epoxy. Comes in the two sided plunger seringe and the package is blue and green.

I also use the 5 min. from time to time but from what I've been told, the 60 min.. set is stronger and it gives me more time to work.
 
I buy my epoxy from local hobby shops in the bigger bottles. I use 5min, 30min, and 2 hour epoxy. I use the 30min when gluing up knife handles. Gives more than enough time to work with and is fully ready to sand after sitting overnight.
 
I basically use JB Weld on my truck, and nothing else. Its ugly and messy, but good.

For everything else I use Devcon from Walmart! Its 1.97 a tube. I use 2 ton most of the time, but if there is a lot of glueup steps I sometimes use the 5 minute. Some people decry the 5 minute because it stays a bit soft. But that can be a blessing as much as a hindrance. For instance, between wood layers the 5 minute allows you to do more steps in a shop session, and its softer finished state allows for more flexing if the wood moves on you.

Go to Walmart and get 5 tubes of each and you won't run out for a year at least. (unless you're me.)
 
I use System Three for five minute set epoxies and Loctite Extra-Time for 60 minute set. I always buy the individual bottle (hardener + epoxy) because the syringe style frustrates the hell out of me trying to get an even amount.
 
I can only get the Devcon 30 minute from Walmart...and I hate Walmart so I usually get the 30 minute Superglue brand epoxy from places like Home Despot and Lowes.

I always need the extra time of the slow curing epoxy. Be sure to mix it real good also. I like to cut the bottom off a soda can and mix it over a light bulb for at least a minute or more.
 
Devcon 2-ton epoxy.

It dries clear, gives you a long working time, hi temp. range, and strong.

Do not use the premixing syringe. On ANY epoxy/glue product. The idea is that you get the same amount of each product and it premixes, but my experience says differently. There is no way of pressing on both tubes with the same amount of pressure, even if they are connected, and your bond will be unacceptable. Equal amounts and thorough mixing is critical. It is the difference between an indestructible bond, and one that falls apart the first time you use it.
 
StretchNM said:
I use System Three for five minute set epoxies and Loctite Extra-Time for 60 minute set. I always buy the individual bottle (hardener + epoxy) because the syringe style frustrates the hell out of me trying to get an even amount.
Click to expand...

You are right on that,get the individual bottles,I loose patience with the syringe:mad:-Regards Butch
 
I use a marine grade 2 part epoxy putty. The stuff is bloody strong and can be applied under water, milled, drilled, sanded etc. I used about 3 tablesppons worth to fix my rad mount on my truck, out in the bush and to patch a hole in my oil pan. That was 50,000kms ago. still holding.

It makes great firesteel handles, wet your fingers after you mix the two parts of putty and mold it around the steel.
 
I use either System Three T88 Epoxy, Brownell's Acraglas, or JB Weld. They all dry overnight and are very strong, harden reliably, and have minimal shrinkage. Marine Tex epoxy also is probably the strongest epoxy I have ever used but the mixing ratio is critical and easy to mess up for very small mix quantitites.

I have had mixed results with the 5 minute epoxy in very minor repairs sometimes not getting full hardening even with careful mixing. I would never use the 5 minute kind on a knife handle. Hardens way too fast and the working time after mixing seems to be only three minutes or so before it starts hardening. Once it starts thickening after mixing I don't trust the bond from that point forward and do not use whatever is left at that point.
 
Like CanDo, I use West Systems. It's not cheap initially, but the stuff works very well in all sorts of applications. You can get fillers and different formulas to make it even more useful. They have great customer support and a loooooong list of people and companies who have used it in professional situations. If you keep it for a long time it turns a reddish-brown color, but it still works perfectly. Overkill for many, but if you have lots of projects that could use epoxying it might be a good buy.
 
Here's the best way I've found to thoroughly mix epoxy:
- take a piece of heavy paper about 4" x 5" or so (I keep a stack of scrap paper cut to that size, with a hole drilled in the corner and a twist-tie through the hole, hanging in my shop);
- use a 6" length of tie wire, bent into a curly cue at one end and an "L" shape at the mixing end;
- put the epoxy parts in the center of the paper;
- lift the paper into one hand;
- mix with the tie wire.

What this does is allows you to scrape the two parts together, mix, scrape, mix, and so on. You bend the paper into a trough as you mix and scrape. As the epoxy starts to spread a little lengthwise in the "trough", turn the paper and make a trough at a 90deg angle to the first and continue mixing. This eliminates unmixed parts of the epoxy as will happen using little cups, etc. Using cups, unmixed epoxy quickly gets pushed up on the sides of the cup and down into the bottom "corners", and either gets unused or gets inadvertantly put into the project.

Plus, the paper is fast, easy, and cheap, and doesn;t require any prep.

For large batches where, say, several ounces of epoxy is needed, cups are more effective.
 
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1. Do not use any of the 'fast set' epoxies - they just don't have the longterm strength and stability
1a. Make sure it is epoxy and not polyester (eg most car body fillers) - the latter shrinks too much

2. Surface prep is critical. Everything must be 100% oil and dust free
2a. Not ideal for timbers with high oil/wax/resin and many plastics. Clingwrap can be used to protect areas you don't want glued

3. Roughen surfaces to enhance adhesion - combine with mechanical fasteners where possible

4. Have to go along with the Devcon recommendation if there's a lot of gap to fill, but most slow-sets will give good results

5. Full strength may take up to 2 weeks to achieve - longer if cold
5a. Do not raise temp above 30ºC (~86ºF) unless you are using a oven-set epoxy as used in aerospace

6. Make up more than you need - very hard to get 50/50 quantities right with small amounts.
6a. Mix once, leave for a couple of minutes then mix again to ensure even mixing and that all air bubbles are released before using. Apply smoothly to avoid air bubbles
 
Very informative thread. Thanks for starting it Rock. I'm going to bookmark it for future reference.

Doc
 
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