What kind of log to mount my anvil?

R

razorhunter

Joined
Jan 27, 2002
Messages
470
Fellas,
I just recently acquired a free 200lb Hay Budden anvil in pretty good shape.
I have been trying to decide on what type of log to find to mount it on. Is there a preferable type of tree/log?
Also, is there ANY other method of mounting this anvil that would be good? I have seen some guys just tack weld them to the top of a welding table or make a steel stand for them. I am assuming a log would be best, no?
I mean, should I just go out back and find a downed oak tree and cut a log out of it or what?

Also, I have a couple questions about the BASE of my Hay Budden. I can see the the serial # on the bottom of it. Can anyone tell me what the age of the anvil is by the serial #? I have heard there is a source for this.
Also, on the FRONT of my anvils BASE, there is a "cut" line across the front of it. This "cut" line is one that I've seen on THREE other Hay Buddens to date. Seriously, I have seen several other Hay Buddens that have this exact same "cut" on the FRONT of the BASE. Here is a link to a 100lb Hay Budden that has the exact same "cut" line on the FRONT of it's base as well.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13869&item=6172627014&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
Scroll down to the bottom where the seller has multiple pics, and look at the BOTTOM LEFT pic. My Hay Budden has the same cut on it's base.
What could this "cut" be from?????

If anyone is willing, I have pics to email of my 200lber, if you would mind posting them for me.
I had another member try to resize them, but they were still barely too big to post on BF's...
Thanks for any help fellas...
 
The 'cut' could just be from a flaw in the mold, particularly if you've seen it on other anvils.
As for dating the anvils via serial number, the auction description gives a reference manual for doing so.

As for mounting ...any old solid log should suffice. One with a flared wide base would be ideal. Purportedly the anvil top should be at the height of your balled fist's knuckles when standing straight up with your arms down at your sides.
 
I really prefer the way Wayne Goddard mounts his.

It's how I made a base for mine. I bought a 4'X8' sheet of high density particleboard, cut it into 11.5" squares, and then glued/nailed them on top of one another to creat the stand.

It's heavy, about 70 lb.

This was easy to screw a piece of canvas belting to for all of my hammers, and I attached a small shelf to throw a brush, and hardy tools on.

This base is compact, allowing me to get my body right up close to the anvil, and it really helps to keep the energy in the work and not just around it.

Since a picture is worth a thousand words-

almostdoneOSF.jpg


-Nick-
 
Hay buddens are forged anvils, not cast, so the "cut wouldn't be from a flaw in the mold, as there is no mold.

I've seen and used anvil stands ranging from stumps to steel skeletonized stands, and I've even used an anvil on a cast iron stand that was factory made just for it.

Personally, I like a stump that's been fitted for the anvil, IE; been cut to closely fit the base, and then had tools holders added around the sides.

Tony
 
Personally I like a fabricated angle iron stand, the base of the anvil sits in an agle iron box, with a piece of neopren under the base and couple wood wedges to hold it in tight. No messing about with nails or chains and turnbuckles to hold the anvil still.

The stand looks like a pryamid with an anvil on top :D:D:D
 
I took four pressure treated 4x4's, bolted them all together, bolted down the anvil on them, sank them in the ground and cemented them into place. It's set up under an old Dogwood tree in my backyard. :)
 
I took 2x8 boards and cut them up and stacked/screwed them into a block the size I needed. Seems to work pretty good for me.
Ed
 
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