what kind of sharp?

Joined
Dec 18, 2006
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I've heard a lot of different advice on how far to go with sharpening. Some like a working, ax sharp while still others like a hair splitting razor sharp. I lack the experience to form my own opinon, but I'd like to hear from some of the old hands out there about your own personal opinions on just how sharp you like to get your khukuris for a good, all around edge. Is there such a thing as too sharp? Thanks.
 
Not an old hand but from what I've read if a knife or sword is too sharp it is prone to chipping.
 
[Rumor deleted]
I am new to Khuks but have never had an axe, or knife for that matter that was too sharp. Just as long as you don't thin it too much over too high an area I don't think you'll have much of a problem. But I do not claim to be an expert.
 
Not an old hand but from what I've read if a knife or sword is too sharp it is prone to chipping.

Not really.

Essential ways to make thing ssharper are (particularly on "push cutting" tools):
- reducing edge angle
- polishing edge

Reducing edge angle will improve sharpness but will make the edge more brittle and more prone to chipping.

Polishing edge will simply make it sharper, and will actually reduce chipping since it will reduce drag. Japanese swords "secret" is a lot about *excellent* polishing (many stages from coarse to fine sharpening).

For me good cutting edge for axes and chopping tools is an edge that will cut typing paper without tearing. I generally use 800 and 1200 grain stones (or GB puck, coarse and fine) plus unloaded leather stropping on the back of my belt. From personal experience, I think stropping is quite important (also works better since chopping tools aren't generally tempered as hard as knives).
 
I prefer "too sharp" by means of fine polish/strop on all my kuks with convex edge. Convex edge.............. that would be all of the ones I own.
 
I prefer sharp enough to slice paper but nat quite razer sharp. to me the edge lasts longer between touch-ups
 
Lately I have been preferring a toothy edge that is also shaving sharp. Best of both worlds for my uses.
 
Lately I have been preferring a toothy edge that is also shaving sharp. Best of both worlds for my uses.

Me too. I don't bother polishing my edges. Seems to triple sharpening time without adding any functionality to the edge. Looks pretty though. I will admit I'm no Steve Ferguson. His and Sarge's blades are dang scarey sharp.
 
For a dedicated chopper I prefer a super shaving sharp highly polished convex edge. Such an edge is less prone to chipping when chopping wood or other cellulose products IMO, but if anything other than wood is hit then all bets are off.
Here lately I prefer using a shaving sharp toothy edge on my EDC blades but they're not kukris, axes, or 'Hawks and such edges seem to stay *sharper* longer for me anyway.
 
I second Yvsa. A highly polished convex edge on a khukuri will chew through wood like a beaver on crystal meth and hold that edge for a long time. I have a Bura made BGRS that I used to chop through two aged hardwood logs around 8" in diameter. That was two years ago and it still has a scary sharp edge. Granted I haven't used it much since then, but it's still pretty dang impressive for a carbon steel blade that cost less than $100.
 
Lately I have been preferring a toothy edge that is also shaving sharp. Best of both worlds for my uses.

This is exactly what I strive for with most of my blades, with a few exceptions. Sharp enough to peel hair off your arm, and yet you have to be able to feel those little microscopic serrations on the tips of your fingers. I probably won't be bothered doing much stropping unless I take up use of a straight razor full-time. Though I WILL opt for a less jagged, slightly more polished edge for push-cuts/chopping than something that will probably do some slicing (like the Opinel I carry with me everyday).
 
You real sharpeners scare me. If I can get my slicing knives as sharp as you get your axes, I'm pretty happy!
 
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