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What kind of steel should I get on a custom 110?

Joined
Apr 19, 2007
Messages
268
Hi everyone. I have managed to get all the cosmetic choices out of the way on my first custom shop 110 (silver bolsters, cherrywood, no rivets, no serration, brown sheath, engraving on the blade) but have one very big question...and two minor ones.

After searching for awhile, I couldn't seem to find any info on which steel is a good choice. Now, I don't even know yet if I'll use this or just keep it in pristine condition...but I would like to have your opinions on the benefits of the different types of steel choices...or at least how they are different. I really have no idea except that I am assuming that some may not be stainless. I am not even considering the demascus.

Also, could anyone let me know how the mirror polish looks (in your opinion) to the satin finish. I have a regular 110 and am assuming that is a satin finish. It's nice but is the mirrored nicer? And if so, does it scratch up easier?

The last question is about the cherrywood...Does it have a distinct pattern like the basic 110 or is it more uniform in grain?

Thanks a lot!!!

I will probably order one in the near future after I figure out what blade to get.
 
BG-42 :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

That being stated, by my own prejudice, I'm curious as to why you are not considering wootz/damascus? :confused:

Here's some links that may provide some helpful insight:

http://www.buckknives.com/technical_steel.php

http://www.knives.com/engnath_steel.html

http://bronksknifeworks.com/historical.htm

Your mileage may vary. Professional stunt driver on closed course. Do not attempt. Contact your health care professional before use. Do not overfill. The originator does not guarantee your results. Rinse before use. Use care when driving or operating dangerous machinery. Wear protective eyewear. Do not remove this label under penalty of law. Results are not typical. Contents under pressure. May cause drowsiness. Objects in mirror are closer than they appear. Unleaded gas only. Alchohol may intensify the effect. Read all label instructions. Do not use if pregnant or nursing. Warranty void if tampered with. Use at your own risk. Do not run with scissors.
 
Just cause I like purdy shiny things. :)

A better answer would be that I kind of like the simple look of clean steel. I'll probably get more adventurous if I like my first custom knife.
 
Seems to me like I read somewhere that a guy ordered his 110 with 34 and it came with CM154 as a identical substitute. If you get a new custom it might come with CM154. Buck might have used up all the 34 and since they are switching over to the American version,154 that might be something you should consider. I have a early bucklock with BG42 that chips. Fine little chips out of the edge. Tiny. Up close looks like a steak knife. Cuts ok. But I'll get a different steel in my future buck knives. Maybe it was a "early" version before they got the heat treating just right. Others seem to love BG 42. If your going to use it. I would just go with the regular 420HC. Seems to be a very tough easy to sharpen steel in my experiance.
 
Money, prestige, and the CM or any fancy steel may hold an edge longer......if you can get it sharp and it doesn't start shedding tiny chips because it's so hard it's brittle.

Fancy steels are unpredictable.....420HC is always faithful.
 
If your going to use it. I would just go with the regular 420HC.

I was going to suggest the same but for the opposite case: if you're not going to use it, why pay for a "super" steel? Mirror finish 420hc might even look better, it takes a great finish.
 
Bills R Us...
Ya know, I read your post and started thinking about my 298GY (ATS-34). I have been using that pup for months and it is still sharp. I cut cardboard, plastic, food, wood...nothing abusive. I don't say that I "baby" it at all as it does get used often. Another knife I'm impressed with, using the similar 154CM, is my Rosie Dorado. Both great knives and keep on cutting.

Am wondering if I used my BeeGee as much as I do that ATS-34 if the BG-42 would be as impressive. I am not crawfishing here, but I just don't know.

For harder use, I use my 889SBMF 440HC. It takes a licking and keeps on ticking. Does need to be sharpened, but it's easy 'nuf to do. And, at $40, I don't sweat using it for rougher tasks.

Having said all that, I still like the 110 in BG-42. Guess it's the ball bearing steel idea that I think is cool. Plus, it was my first "premium" Buck 110 steel. Guess ya never forget your fist love (but ya can dump her or divorce her).

Aza, if ya get a closet queen and like 'em shiny, I understand why ya wouldn't want Damascus. BUT, have you seen the new stainless damascus from Buck? Not shiny, but purdy as a West Virginia cousin in Daisy Dukes and a wet t-shirt.
My suggestion, if ya want a great all around ab(user)...440HC. Won't let ya down. Your mileage won't vary on that one. :thumbup:

Here's a pic of a standard (satin finish) 110 and a mirror. Note the reflection in the mirror of the camouflage.

94638688-S.jpg
94638571-S.jpg


Also, a pic of the recent Buck raindrop pattern stainless damascus. This was short run of 50...heard more damascus is coming but the pattern may be different.
Click the pic:


.
 
Bilrus61...

What would be the differences between 420hc and the cm154?
I'm not Bilrus61, but you may find your answer in the Buck link I posted above :)
Here's their data on the two you ask about:
----------------------------------------------------------------
154CM – 154CM is a very high carbon stainless steel with the addition of Molybdenum. Because 154CM provides better edge retention than standard cutlery (stainless) steels, it is a good choice for blades that require heavier cutting applications.

Very good edge holding ability
Rockwell Rc 60-61
Good toughness when double tempered
Fair corrosion resistance
Less expensive than BG-42 and S30V

Carbon 1.05
Silicon .35
Chromium 13.5 - 14-5
Molybdenum 4.0

----------------------------------------------------------------
420HC - A higher carbon version of standard Type 420 martensitic stainless steel. The Carbon content, combined with the high Chromium content, provides good abrasion resistance and edge-holding. This steel is not to be confused with standard 420 stainless steel. 420HC is an excellent general purpose knife steel when heat-treated with our proprietary Paul Bos heat-treat process. Good edge holding ability
Resharpens well
Rockwell Rc 58
Good toughness
Very good corrosion resistance
Excellent standard knife steel

Carbon .4 - .5
Nickel .5
Silicon .6
Chromium 12.0 -14.0
Manganese 1.0
 
Thanks so much for the info guys...it has helped out a lot. Also, thanks for the pic Buckaholic. It's one of the most helpful...by the way when you reccommended 440hc...were you meaning the 420hc?

I am leaning towards the mirror finish 420hc at the moment.

As a last question, if I were to get two lines engraved on the blade...where do they engrave it?

I was assuming it was where the buck stamp is but after seeing a few pictures...it kind of looks like it might be on the blade itself...parallel to to the knife edge. Is this correct?
 
I say if you are going custom---why get the run of the mill steel that's on darn near every Buck out there---you're going for something unique and different---get the steel upgrade too.
 
As to why you'd get a high-priced steel on a wall-hanger......Well, one, for resale value, and two, because they stamp the name of your exotic steel on the blade and it can be seen and envied by one and all.

Most collecting is about inspiring envy in others.

:)
 
Rocinante....

Yeeeessssss......you are absolutely right. I like the cutting through all the B.S. style of yours. :) Hmmm...now the mirror polish isn't looking so hot anymore.

If I ran into someone who was knife knowledgable, they'd immediately know it was just a "purdy shiny'd" version of the regular issue stuff.

You guys are very good at swaying a guy. Now the real question is do they have a mirror finish on any of the "good stuff"?

Oh yeah, and does anyone have an answer on the engraving on the blade question?

Thanks...
 
... Also, thanks for the pic Buckaholic. It's one of the most helpful...by the way when you reccommended 440hc...were you meaning the 420hc?
...

Yep. 420. My brain fart.
From a movie; "220, 230, whatever it takes" ;)
 
Dear AZA77;
When you ask about the "optimal" blade steel for your custom you seem to be assuming this will be the ONLY Buck custom you will ever buy. I don't think you can make a mistake here as the first knife will lead to a second and the second will lead to a third and so on. The bottom line is each type of blade has its merits. Each inlay has its merits. Each frame has its merits. I bet given enough time you will buy quite a few combinations. Collecting Buck Knives is somewhat of a disease. "I bet you can't eat just one" as the potato chip ad said.

PS - The Cherrywood should be more uniform in color because birch takes a more uniform stain than obeche.
 
...

Oh yeah, and does anyone have an answer on the engraving on the blade question?

Thanks...

Aza77...

Thought Mike might have chimed in by now. He's probably busy. Don't think he'd mind my giving ya a link to his 110 BG-42 Asian Buff that has his initials and date engraved on the blade from the BCS.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c277/michaelkerins/BuckCustomShop110BuffaloscalesBG-42.jpg

Here is a link to his gallery too:

http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c277/michaelkerins/?start=0

.
 
ya know if it is to be a looker get real pirty and shinny!
if a user get supper steel...
 
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