What kind of stone for CPM S30V?

crazy nicky

crazy nicky

BANNED
Joined
Jun 14, 2002
Messages
609
Anyone know what kind of stone is good to get a the edge back on CPM S30V after some typical outdoor hard use? Also, I'm looking for a stone big enough to fit in a small pouch on a sheath? Thanks in advance...
 
Best stone for the S30V will be a diamond stone IMHO. You will have to look around, try DMT and Ez Lap and see what is available.
 
Buy Diamond, definitely, and don't look back.

I'd use DMT stuff if you can find something of the right size. They use monocrystalline diamonds, which cut and wear better.

EZ Lap uses both mono and polycrystalline diamonds, a compromise.

And of course that MAY show up in the prices you pay.
 
I found a DMT pocket model...what kind of grit do you think I should get for basic outdoor utility used?
 
If you have a reasonably sharp knife and touch up regular, the fine will probably work for you. If you let the blade get pretty dull, you may want the course as well.
 
I think I'm gonna get one of these: DMT Double-Sided Diafold Fine / Coarse
I measured it and it should fit perfeectly...thanks alot guys!
 
Originally posted by crazy nicky
I think I'm gonna get one of these: DMT Double-Sided Diafold Fine / Coarse
I measured it and it should fit perfeectly...thanks alot guys!
Click to expand...
Bingo. Was going to suggest a double sided "stone".
 
Nicky,
DMT Double Sided Diafold is very nice tool for field sharpening and light touchups. It could be quite difficult to reprofile an edge with this one if you would need. Too short sharpening surface...

I could advise you to get their 8-inched double sided sharpening plate Duo-Sharp (one side coarse, another fine) with additional plastic base. Coarse side would serve you for edge reprofiling and fine one – for general sharpening chores. It is very easy and comfortable to work with.

If you would add also fine/extra-fine Double Sided Diafold for finishing touch, field sharpening and light touchups – practically all your sharpening needs would be covered. Assuming that you have mastered free hand sharpening of course.
 
Agree with Sergiusz... this is all assuming you've mastered free hand sharpening.

If not, then you can try the Lansky or DMT sharpening jig system... where the knife is held in a clamp, and clamp has holes that orient the stone with guide rod at a fixed angle. They work well, will help teach you what to look for in terms of a burr during sharpening, and make transition to free-hand much easier.

Also, DMT makes a nice stand for their stones. I have the big 10" x 3" duo stone (coarse + fine) and the stand. Got the stone from these guys:

http://www.cutleryshoppe.com/index_catalog.html

Navigate to bottom, sharpening, then you'll see the DMT Duosharp benchstones, stone stand, and the aligner system.

DMT's stones are better quality than Lansky's, i.e. last longer. But the DMT alignment jig is some kind of plastic/polymer, and I'm not real wild about it (haven't use it, but have played with it at a store)... it's a bit flimsy. The Lansky jig is aluminum and seems to hold up better.

All of the jig systems have pros/cons. Use the search engine to unearth recent and archived threads on this topic.

EdgePro is arguably the nicest... more expensive, built better, but has some negatives (dirtier, have to protect knife from other surface scratches). System uses water stones, which cut very nicely, but do wear quickly and have to be flattened periodically (which is one thing the big DMT DuoSharp stone excels at).

http://business.gorge.net/edgepro/
 
The large x-coarse diamond plates are not worth it except in rare cases. You can get faster honing, much faster, out of a very coarse waterstone + some 80 grit SiC lapping compound, and that is also *much* cheaper. The coarse diamond plate is only a better choice for very thin knives with extensive tapers that you have to hone using very light force. As a finishing stone they have their benefits, so the fine and x-fine ones are usually decent choices if you sharpening high alloy steels like S30V, but for edge shaping chores look elsewhere.

-Cliff
 
I'm a 'light touch' kind of guy. I believe that you should achieve a sharp edge with the least amount of metal removal and the finest grit stone you can manage. I know guys who grind off every little nick right after the new knife slides out of the box.

If a new knife is sharp, I simply use it until it becomes slightly dull. I never use a knife until it's all of the way down to 'butter knife dull.' If the edge is irregular, I'll re-profile a bit, still with a light touch.

For example, Strider AR, my first S30V blade as it pertains to this thread, arrived sharp, but the edge was irregular left to right as it was front to back. My biggest concern was the right edge; it was narrow at the rear, but wider towards the tip.

As I sharpened it the first time with more aggressive stones, I still only pressed until a bur formed, then I stopped. Sure, it took two of three sharpenings to even out the bevel, but the knife was useful and sharp during this period.

My dad had the same jackknife his whole life. He won it as a prize in the 1930's. It was always sharp, but more to the point, it never lost its original grind lines. It was never sharpened down to a nub.

Ben Dale sent me a diamond stone for this S30V type steel. I have never used it.
 
I have the DMT aligner kit with the four diamond hones, and the plastic jig thingie. I wasn't crazy about a plastic jig, as was mentioned above, but I gotta tell ya, it works. (and no scratched blades, or marred coatings). I carry it everywhere. I also have gotten my best edges to date with it (I strop afterward). Oh, and it comes with it's own nylon belt pouch! I can't tell ya the number of times at a get-together, camping, hunting, or wherever when someone spots my Buck/Mayo clipped to my pocket and says "whatcha got there?". After admiring it, and usually whistling at the price (if they're not a knut too), they show me what they're packing. If it's dull, beat up, whatever (I've seen some really abused blades), I'll offer to sharpen it, and since I usually have the DMT kit with me, it's no prob. Diamonds make fast work of even abused edges. Kinda makes me the camp sharpening whore!
 
Almost all of my knife sharpening for many years has been done with Eze-lap, a 1/4" diamond rod . Diamond rod will sharpen anything even a carbide tipped drill. Go easy, two or three light strokes is uasually fine.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top