What KNG to be thinking about?

blgoode

blgoode

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Oct 3, 2003
Messages
7,145
I may go for a kMG in the next year.....what modle would be the best modle to get? I think you can always buy the wheel attachments in the future.

I want to flat grind/convex grind and profile so I know the small wheel attachments I will need.

Thanks for the input guys............
 
Does the 3 phase motor slow the grinding speed? I know there is a wheel attachment to slow things down..........
 
A 3 phase motor is mostly for allowing higher torque through the entire RPM (esp. when run on 110V). If you don't want to mess with the VFD, then just get a pair of step-down pulleys. They'll give you a low/med/high range that will still get a lot done.

If you're going to do flat/convex you'll want the KMG-PL. That's what I have. I asked Rob to switch out one of the 2 inch steel wheels for a rubber one so I can profile with it as well. I also have the small wheel assembly for doing choils, finger grooves, etc.

You can easily remove the platen (2 bolts) for convex grinding. Taking a cue from Sando (where's he been lately, anyway?) I made a jig to hook up to my platen to allow me to convex grind against a hard surface (rather than slack belt). I still do both, though.
 
Dan,

Sounds like you know your stuff ;)

I would defenantly get the small wheel attachment........

Sounds like your set up is what I'd like to get.

What speed motor? 1750?
 
Daniel I got a 2 HP 3 phase motor and convertor from these guys
http://www.dealerselectric.com/index.htm . It lets me run from about 200 rpm's to 3500 rpm's with the touch of a button, and stop anywhere in between. I spend a lot of time in the 800-1000 rpm range when finishing. Although the motor is 3 phase, the convertor uses single phase in(up to 3 HP), so anyone with 220 single phase can have a really nice variable speed motor for only $385 plus shipping for the 2 HP, which is plenty of HP for my KMG. It's also reversable, and running the belt backwards while holding a piece of metal on the belt seems to open up a new "layer" of abrasive, and give some more life to the belt (but that's the only thing the reverse is good forthat I know of). This is less expensive than the Leesons, so I went this route. Sure glad I did. Note: if anyone orders one of these, be sure and tell Rob Frink that the drive pully needs to have a 7/8's hub for the motor.
 
1750 is right, Brian. That way, you can get 875, 1750 and 3500 with the step pulleys.


I have a similar setup, Robert - except that I run mine off 110V. For $440 it takes 110V, steps it up and splits it to 3 phase. The largest motor you can run on 110V is 1.5HP. To get 2+HP (like yours) requires 220V or greater.

Took a while to find the setup I wanted. There are certainly cheaper ways to achieve the same results. A similar motor can be found on ebay or surplus center. You'll need to purchase a VFD and a step-up transformer (or try to find a combo unit like mine). The VFD and Trans can be found on surplus center as well. For me, it was worth it ($$$) having somebody else put it together and slap a 1-yr warranty on it. But that's not for everybody.
 
Get the 8" or 10" wheel. I have the 8" and I think I'd prefer the 10" after using it for some time. A 1" small wheel for finger grooves. Do get a tool bar for every wheel or attachment. Change over takes around 10 seconds that way.
 
If flat/convex grinds are what u are looking to do.....then get a flat platen and spend the extra bucks and get the rotary platen. It is a must have for this type of work.....probably one of the best inventions for knifemaking in recent times. I wish I could show you what I mean about it......it is something you have to see in use.

The ability to adjust the geometry of your grind with the rotary platen is unbelievable.

I have ground a few blades that were absolute abominations coming off the flat platen and the rotary makes them look and perform like gems. There is a small learning curve with this attachment though....but now I couldnt live without it.

The small wheel attachment is great too.....if you do any fingergroove or choil work.
 
Greg - thanks for mentioning the rotary platen. I'm sure I'd love it if I got one, but have been reluctant to get it so far.

Can you give me some more specifics? I assume you use it for convex grinding...?
 
Greg, I've been thinking about the rotary platen also, but it's big $$$ for the actual unit, plus another tool are ( a must have). Are there any other uses for it besides convex grinding and sharpening? I'm like Fitzo, and love gadgets and do-dads, and anything that moves I guess, so I'm considering one :p
BTW, I like your site, and am impressed with your Bowie with the Damascus twist. What steel is in the pattern, and was it very hard to do the twist? I'm getting set to try some of that.
 
one thing to consider, when running three phase motors on single phase, you lose 1/3 of your horsepower, so a 2 hp motor only goes up to 1.33 hp on a converter.
 
Dan & rhrocker

You can always use a cheater for your convex grinds until you spring for the rotary:

rotary.jpg


I use this thing alot now. All my flat handle work and blade finishing grinds. I'd have to say half the time it's on my platen.

Steve
 
rhrocker said:
Greg, I've been thinking about the rotary platen also, but it's big $$$ for the actual unit, plus another tool are ( a must have). Are there any other uses for it besides convex grinding and sharpening? I'm like Fitzo, and love gadgets and do-dads, and anything that moves I guess, so I'm considering one :p
BTW, I like your site, and am impressed with your Bowie with the Damascus twist. What steel is in the pattern, and was it very hard to do the twist? I'm getting set to try some of that.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the compliment! The twist Bowie was actually some Thunderforge that I forged to shape.

As far as the rotary platen...I consider it a must have if you plan to do any convex grinding at all. Or even flat grinding for that matter. I cannot over-emphasize how well it works, corrects mistakes, and allows you to adjust the edge geometry...or should I say, blade geometry, and I never sharpen the knife with the rotary platen.
 
well....now here's a question....

can the kmg be set up to have a flat platen, say....6" wheel, and a 1" or 1 1/2" wheel to grind against all set up to run so you can grind on these without changing set ups?

I saw a Bader set up in a similar fashion this week........just wondering.

Thanks ;)
 
B., yes, Ed Caffrey had his KMG set up that way before it was shipped to him. All he has to do is loosen a set screw and the end piece rotates to one of two different wheels, plus a flat platen on one side, and a slack belt on the other. Pretty slick. There used to be photos of it on the old CKD site, but it's no longer in existance. The new KnifeNetwork site may have the archives. Best is to just email Rob Frink about it. He'll usually respond within a day or two.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top