What level of sharpness can I expect from Smith's diamonds?

myright

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Jan 31, 2008
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Hey fellas - I recently changed up how I sharpened and purchased a Smith's system from Dick's

http://smithsedge.com/products/product.asp?id=32&cid=21

It has everything in that link. My question is.. How sharp can I reasonable expect to get my knives with this system. I can slice paper easily but can't get to shaving sharp. Well, it'll shave my arm hair but it more like yanks the hair out, not shaving it.

I use the Sharpy to make sure I am hitting the edge and gave myself plenty of time on the coarse one before moving on.

What do you guys think?
 
With proper technique and practice you should be able to get a scary sharp edge !!! I use a diamond lanky to profile the primary bevel and than use the sharpmaker for the micro bevel and have no complaints in the sharpness department !!!
 
With proper technique and practice you should be able to get a scary sharp edge !!! I use a diamond lanky to profile the primary bevel and than use the sharpmaker for the micro bevel and have no complaints in the sharpness department !!!

Thanks - I guess I've just got to get used to using something different. I got my Grips with 154CM much sharper than I got my RC3. I thought it would have been the other way around.

I've got some time to myself tonight so I'll keep messing around. In your experience is most of your time spent on the coarse and medium or is your time pretty well distrubted amongst all the stones/diamonds?
 
The RC3 is pretty soft and will grind fast with diamonds. I find that I generally use diamonds for stock removal on 1095 and either a light touch with ceramic or loaded strop for sharpening.
 
Thanks - I guess I've just got to get used to using something different. I got my Grips with 154CM much sharper than I got my RC3. I thought it would have been the other way around.

I've got some time to myself tonight so I'll keep messing around. In your experience is most of your time spent on the coarse and medium or is your time pretty well distrubted amongst all the stones/diamonds?

Don't switch stones until you have a burr worked up with the previous grit ! Switching stones too early is a common problem and will cause much frustration and a sub par edge !! Now I'm
no expert sharpener but this is just my experience with a similar system
 
What is a realistic time frame to expect to spend on each grit? I know it all depends on the level current sharpness and as well as the steel. Say for a carbon blade with a decent edge on it how long are you spending on each? I understand waiting for the bur before moving on but I don't know if I'm missing the bur altoghther or am being impatient.

I am used to sharpening on the wheels but have chewing up some blades lately.
 
Sounds like you need to spend more time . I stay on each grit till I can work the burr from side to side before switching to a finer stone ! That's as much as I know in the sharpening dept. Hopefully one of our forum pros will chime in to help !!! Good luck and take your time !!
 
I use the same kit but mine doesn't have the fine arkansas stone - for that department I finish up with a Lansky turnbox (a poorman's sharpmaker :p).

I only use this kit when re-beveling a blade so I can easily sharpen it to my liking at a later time. If a knife has a brand spanking new edge I'll just use my turnbox ceramic rods to touch up the edge.

When re-beveling a whole new angle on my knives, I don't do the simple "slice" technique, I use the coarse diamond and run it up and down the entire length of the blade. It's faster and when you get the edge to where you want it, then I do the "slice" forward technique. Once a burr is achieved and I'm satisfied with an even grind on both sides, I'll switch to the fine diamond. After that I'll move on to my ceramics.

I hope this helps or at least made some sort of sense :o

Most of your time will be spent on the coarse diamond, then a lot less on the fine diamond, and lastly the smoothest thing you can sharpen your knife with (ceramics for me).
 
Don't switch stones until you have a burr worked up with the previous grit ! Switching stones too early is a common problem and will cause much frustration and a sub par edge !! Now I'm
no expert sharpener but this is just my experience with a similar system

What is a realistic time frame to expect to spend on each grit? I know it all depends on the level current sharpness and as well as the steel. Say for a carbon blade with a decent edge on it how long are you spending on each? I understand waiting for the bur before moving on but I don't know if I'm missing the bur altoghther or am being impatient.

I am used to sharpening on the wheels but have chewing up some blades lately.

Softrockrenegade has good advice. On some blades you can get a good grind to the edge fairly quickly, depends on the steel and how closely you're following the existing bevel. I find I have to spend about the same amount of time with the coarse and fine Smith's diamond stones. Coming off of the fine one you should be capable of easily parting arm hair from your arm. If you continue on to the fine Arkansas (which will take about the same amount of time as the other stones believe it or not) you'll have an edge that you should be able to shave your face with, just not very comfortably. Arm hair should fall away with no sensation of tugging at all. As others have mentioned, you must raise a burr with each grit, and the burr should be more or less continuous along the entire edge. I take the step of removing most or all of the burr at each level with either a strop or a light touch on the stone. That way you know the next burr you raise is only from the stone you're currently working with. Sounds time-consuming, but with practice you can run through the stones fairly quickly as long as you're not trying to change the edge angle, even if the knife is somewhat dull. You'll need a loupe of 8-12x and some good lighting (though most burrs can be spotted with the naked eye as long as the lighting is strong.

Raise burr on one side (count the strokes).
Raise burr on second side (use the same number of strokes even if you get a burr more quickly).
Remove burr and enjoy, or move on to the next stone.
The most time-consuming thing you can do is change the edge angle. To speed it up if that's part of what you're attempting, get an even lower grit stone than the Smith's coarse, something in the 120-200 grit range in Silicone Carbide or Aluminum Oxide (my favorites for changing the bevel quickly).

Go slow and develop a feel for when the edge is at the proper angle to the stone. Once you've gotten that down, your speed will pick up on it's own.]

HH
 
Great advice fellas - I've finally got the kids to bed and am going to get my RC3 clamped up while I watch Sunday night football.

The edge looks a lot better and looks more even than before when I was using the wheels so I know I've come along way at getting it re-beveled. It is fairly sharp but not where i want it to be. I'll use the suggestions above and see where I get to and report back.

Thanks again.
 
I use the Smiths diamonds often and get stuff scary sharp. No matter what system I use, IE: Smiths, paper wheels, belt grinder, stones or other I always follow up with either stropping or a very fine ceramic/glass rod. My glass rods are actually the filaments from industrial size sodium vapor light bulbs. Can usually get hair whittling results with most steel this way.
 
I use the Smiths diamonds often and get stuff scary sharp. No matter what system I use, IE: Smiths, paper wheels, belt grinder, stones or other I always follow up with either stropping or a very fine ceramic/glass rod. My glass rods are actually the filaments from industrial size sodium vapor light bulbs. Can usually get hair whittling results with most steel this way.

Ugh - I worked that darn RC3 for a while - I still think I'm not getting a burr. I jacked the edge up pretty good on the paper wheels so I think I've got a ways to go to reprofile the edge some more before I can get it perfect.

I'm on a mission now so I WILL figure out the right technique to make these things work for me.
 
It sounds like you might want a stone that's a little more aggressive. This will do two things for you - re establish the bevel in a lot less time, and it's also a lot easier visually to differentiate a really coarse grit grind pattern from the existing finer ones. Just go easy on the pressure. If you stick with the Smith's coarse, use the Sharpie frequently and use a little more pressure. Once you get a positive lock on where exactly you're grinding, you'll be in better shape for raising a burr.
 
Reprofiling will take some time. I usually get pretty aggressive with the coarse diamond hone. I have reprofiled ZDP,S60V, S90V, S110V, and many other easier steels. The S110V took the longest and the coarse stone is probably a medium one now. Come to think of it the only 10 series things I own are throwing knives and hawks. Don't think I have any 1095. Um, a new project for next year :D.
 
Keep using the sharpie to make sure you are actually on the edge. Other than that just take your time, walk away if you get frustrated, and eventually you will get it.

Don't give up. :thumbup:



Ugh - I worked that darn RC3 for a while - I still think I'm not getting a burr. I jacked the edge up pretty good on the paper wheels so I think I've got a ways to go to reprofile the edge some more before I can get it perfect.

I'm on a mission now so I WILL figure out the right technique to make these things work for me.
 
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