What makes a good "patch knife"? & How to carry?

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Nov 29, 2005
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What attributes does one look for in a good "patch knife"--that is, a knife for cutting the patches used in muzzle-loading? What size is optimal, and what problems are there if one goes too long or too short?

Is any particular blade configuration better than another? For example, it strikes me that a Scandinavian grind might be less good than a full-flat grind, since the Scandinavian grind might end up rubbing the muzzle more than necessary where the bevel starts.

While I'm asking, I've seen blackpowder shooters' "possibles bags" fitted with built-in sheaths for patch knives. I've seen some on the shoulder strap; others as pockets on the sides, and one squarely in the middle of the back of the bag. Anyone have any thoughts about which of these is a good, or bad, idea?
 
Back in the day (mid '80's), when I used to do the primitive re-enactment thing, I carried and used a CVA "Green River" kit knife I bought from Dixie G.W.. It came with a single slot leather sheath I dressed up with some fringed imitation buckskin, and wore it on my trappers belt (where I didn't have to worry about losing it). I still have it. It's a 6" flat grind blade of some kind of stainless steel, with a false edge ground on top (for throwing). It's not a serious tool, but it cut patch just fine, and actually held up pretty well through numerous throwing contests.

If you're cutting patch at the muzzle, you're eventually gonna scratch the finish no matter what blade you use. I rarely did it, and don't recollect many others in our group doing it either. IMHO, better to make up a bunch pre-cut and store them in your possibles bag. Not as cool as whippin' out yer li'l pig sticker and slicin' yer tickin' off, but if you're concerned about scraping the finish of your prized smoke pole, you'd be better served with pre-prepped patch stock. I always carried a loading block attached to my bag with 8 patch and ball sets ready to go. It's a lot quicker, and I didn't have to worry about slicing my kit (or worse) every time I had to reload.

Probably doesn't answer your question.....just something to ponder. :)
 
Bark River makes a bunch of small fixed-blades that work great for patch knives. Carry them however you want. :P
 
I second "The Backswoodsman." Lots of good self-sufficient lifestyle ideas.

Some patch knives made today are chisel ground to allow a full flat side against the muzzle. One's I've seen pictured are 3-4 inch blades with either a round or flattened diamond profile handle, which is considered somewhat more authentic. The ridge runs down the middle of the handle, which shouldn't be uncomfortable given the flatness of scales riveted to the tang. Clasp knives - friction folders, or Spanish style ring pull locks are used, too.

Sheaths come in too many varieties, but some just use a sash wrapped around the waist and tuck knives into the folds. Possibles bags were used by some - clothing had few pockets, so knives with small sheaths could simply be tossed into them.

"Authentic" in this area means simple and handmade - I'm sure there are kits you could bang up in a few hours to add to your enjoyment.
 
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