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what makes a good thrower
- Thread starter nate1714
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2004
- Messages
- 4,812
The ability to stick.
I don't think it's much simpler than that.
Sure, there are arguments about balance, but the truth is that an unbalanced blade can stick every bit as good as a balanced one with a minor modification of throwing technique.
The tip causes concern for people, but an acute tip and an obtuse tip can stick equally well.
A long blade? Well, I can throw saw blades, spikes, scissors, and so on--the blade length (and shape) don't matter.
So my guess would be... can it stick?
I don't think it's much simpler than that.
Sure, there are arguments about balance, but the truth is that an unbalanced blade can stick every bit as good as a balanced one with a minor modification of throwing technique.
The tip causes concern for people, but an acute tip and an obtuse tip can stick equally well.
A long blade? Well, I can throw saw blades, spikes, scissors, and so on--the blade length (and shape) don't matter.
So my guess would be... can it stick?
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2004
- Messages
- 3,419
Being sober. HHHEEEYYY Bobby Branton!!! Cavelady 
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2005
- Messages
- 5,874
Spear first, tomahawk second and knife third.
The spear sticks without figuring out any spin because with a spear there is no spin. Cold Steel has a nice spear head http://www.coldsteel.com/fixed-blades-bushman.html that doubles nicely as a knife. You fix it onto your own shaft. I use Maple since I have plenty on my place. The blade metal flexes and you have less chance of breaking the blade early in your hurling.
The tomahawk has more heft and more sticking area. It is soooo satisfying when it sticks due to the mass involved and the violence of the impact. Choose the heaviest hawk you can throw. I use hawks made in Canyonville by a terrific craftsman whose name escapes me. His goods are sold at Mountain Man type tables at blade/gun shows. The head is reinforced against breakage by using a bimetallic head. The head should travel down the handle so you can replace the handles as you break them. And, you will break them so get at least one replacement handle.
The knife, hardest to stick IMHO, is a real joy to set into a target from a distance. I use Gil Hibben's largest, Bowie style, all steel knives. http://www.knivesplus.com/hibben-throwing-knife-uc-gh455csnb.html Choose the heaviest you can throw. It helps to have a smooth handle to slip from your hand as you hurtle it. Love them.
To stick the hawk and knife: Try throwing from various distances and when you stick measure this distance as your successful throw distance. You will find other intervals of distance for sticking based on revolutions of the thrown weapon. The interval will probably be different for a hawk vs a knife as each rotates at different speeds (unless you cleverly compensate by spinning the weapon appropriately).
Having several helps keep walking to the target down to a minimum. It also continues the fun, because you have another weapon, when you can't find what you just threw away.
All the best,
oregon
The spear sticks without figuring out any spin because with a spear there is no spin. Cold Steel has a nice spear head http://www.coldsteel.com/fixed-blades-bushman.html that doubles nicely as a knife. You fix it onto your own shaft. I use Maple since I have plenty on my place. The blade metal flexes and you have less chance of breaking the blade early in your hurling.
The tomahawk has more heft and more sticking area. It is soooo satisfying when it sticks due to the mass involved and the violence of the impact. Choose the heaviest hawk you can throw. I use hawks made in Canyonville by a terrific craftsman whose name escapes me. His goods are sold at Mountain Man type tables at blade/gun shows. The head is reinforced against breakage by using a bimetallic head. The head should travel down the handle so you can replace the handles as you break them. And, you will break them so get at least one replacement handle.
The knife, hardest to stick IMHO, is a real joy to set into a target from a distance. I use Gil Hibben's largest, Bowie style, all steel knives. http://www.knivesplus.com/hibben-throwing-knife-uc-gh455csnb.html Choose the heaviest you can throw. It helps to have a smooth handle to slip from your hand as you hurtle it. Love them.
To stick the hawk and knife: Try throwing from various distances and when you stick measure this distance as your successful throw distance. You will find other intervals of distance for sticking based on revolutions of the thrown weapon. The interval will probably be different for a hawk vs a knife as each rotates at different speeds (unless you cleverly compensate by spinning the weapon appropriately).
Having several helps keep walking to the target down to a minimum. It also continues the fun, because you have another weapon, when you can't find what you just threw away.
All the best,
oregon
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2004
- Messages
- 107
nate1714,
What makes a good thrower? That question can only be properly answered by you. With the time and dedication that it takes to throw accurately and reliably, you would develop a feel for what works for you. The size, shape, weight, and ergonomics of any knife are determined by their creator. I would suggest purchasing something inexpensive, and at least three of them; and then purchasing a good target ( I retrieved my butchers block table top from the dumpster and it more than serves the purpose). Purchase or borrow (library) a book that explains throwing dynamics, read it, and start practicing. Don't get discouraged if you can't get them to stick, watch the rotation. With practice, throwing can be a fun and entertaining sport. Cheers,
-greg
What makes a good thrower? That question can only be properly answered by you. With the time and dedication that it takes to throw accurately and reliably, you would develop a feel for what works for you. The size, shape, weight, and ergonomics of any knife are determined by their creator. I would suggest purchasing something inexpensive, and at least three of them; and then purchasing a good target ( I retrieved my butchers block table top from the dumpster and it more than serves the purpose). Purchase or borrow (library) a book that explains throwing dynamics, read it, and start practicing. Don't get discouraged if you can't get them to stick, watch the rotation. With practice, throwing can be a fun and entertaining sport. Cheers,
-greg
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2005
- Messages
- 1,130
hah i tried to throw some spikes made from 12 galvanised nails once. I got fed up with it after a few throws where they just bounced off the target i am not a patient man when it comes to that sort of thing.
Also i made a spear out of one of thosee lil green fence posts that ppl use to make small pins out of that worked for a while till it bent horribly it was pretty fun to throw though.
Brandon
Also i made a spear out of one of thosee lil green fence posts that ppl use to make small pins out of that worked for a while till it bent horribly it was pretty fun to throw though.
Brandon
- Joined
- Apr 27, 1999
- Messages
- 6,117
The points on nails are pretty obtuse. It helps to extend the taper to 2 or 3 times the normal length for easier sticking.
The most important thing for a throwing knife is that it not break. Satisfaction goes down tremendously if the tip or the handle breaks. Carbon steel is good. A point that is too narrow will penetrate the target easily, but is likely to bend or break. A point that is too wide will be hard to stick. You want a medium. The handle should be simple and solid. You don't want a stick tang in your handle. The stick will bend and the handle will break. Get solid slabs on a full tang. You may even have a handle that is just cord wrapped around a combination tang/handle. If you throw from the handle it helps to not have lumps and bumps along the handle. Something that is like a simple cylinder (or flattened cylinder) shape makes for a smooth release. If you throw from the blade you need one side of the blade dull (no double-edged daggers) or you will cut your hand.
If you get to the point where you throw knives at extreme ranges, say 50 feet, you may notice blade symmetry issues. A blade that is not symmetric across its axis will tend to wobble. This is not a big effect and you don't notice it at moderate range. At long range your blade may not be rotating parallel to the direction of your throw all the time.
The most important thing for a throwing knife is that it not break. Satisfaction goes down tremendously if the tip or the handle breaks. Carbon steel is good. A point that is too narrow will penetrate the target easily, but is likely to bend or break. A point that is too wide will be hard to stick. You want a medium. The handle should be simple and solid. You don't want a stick tang in your handle. The stick will bend and the handle will break. Get solid slabs on a full tang. You may even have a handle that is just cord wrapped around a combination tang/handle. If you throw from the handle it helps to not have lumps and bumps along the handle. Something that is like a simple cylinder (or flattened cylinder) shape makes for a smooth release. If you throw from the blade you need one side of the blade dull (no double-edged daggers) or you will cut your hand.
If you get to the point where you throw knives at extreme ranges, say 50 feet, you may notice blade symmetry issues. A blade that is not symmetric across its axis will tend to wobble. This is not a big effect and you don't notice it at moderate range. At long range your blade may not be rotating parallel to the direction of your throw all the time.