What makes a piece of wood Exhibition Grade?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Dec 7, 2008
Messages
7,187
I have been real hesitant to call a piece of wood "Exhibition Grade" or "Presentation Grade" because I have seen the designation used so loosely. I have done so a couple times, but only on pieces where there was no doubt.

Does anyone know of an official source of the grading requirements for a piece of wood to be designated with the different grades. I cut so much burl that what I think is normal good stuff could be the best someone else has ever seen.

I have been using designations like; really cool, weird stuff, bizarre and other off the wall comments. Not very professional on my part. A few suppliers have been buying blocks from me and reselling them as exhibition grade.

I figure if I graded the pieces correctly it may help add value to your finished knives. Do the designations; A Grade, Presentation Grade or Exhibition Grade have any importance to you? Or do you just base things on the look of the individual piece?
 
It's all subjective. Two people see the same piece, one likes it a lot, another so-so...

You can grade reliably only if you have a reference, a ruler, a scale. In your case it is impossible.
IMHO.
 
But If we tell you that, you'll raise your prices on that really good stuff! LOL!:D
Here's one I found that makes sense to me...

Grade _________ Description
Exhibition Select = Exceptional one-of-a-kind pieces.
Exhibition = 100% figure, nice color, one-of-a-kind pieces.
Fancy Select = 75% figure, nice color.
Fancy = Nice color, 50% figure.
Semi Fancy = Nice color, 10% figure or better.
Utility = Plain wood, nice color and grain flow.
 
It's all about puffing the product by the seller to create a perceived separation of "his" product from the competition. This is true whether the wood is call presentation grade, museum grade drop dead grade, unusual grade, extra hard grade or weird grade. It's all an attempt to influence, not define.
 
The categories are useless because they are marketing terms, not standardized grades with measurable criteria, keep posting actual photos like you are now.
 
The categories are useless because they are marketing terms, not standardized grades with measurable criteria, keep posting actual photos like you are now.

This is what I had been thinking, that they were more marketing terms. I was curious if anyone had seen any standardized grading system for burl and figured woods. For lumber I have seen a system of 1A through 5A. 5A being 100% figured.

Until I learn differently I think I will just stick with describing the wood best I can and post individual photos.

What if I made up my own grading system?
Example; hallucinogenic grade for pieces that make you see things when you stare at it too long.
 
staring at wood all day... not my cup of tea.

Yeah like being in a coffin.

But seriously, since there in no normative reference for these woods it may be helpful for you to develop your own local norms. You are doing this anyway intuitively as you are basing your judgement of a particular block on a non-random sample of all similar same types of blocks that come to your mind when you see the one you are judging. Perhaps if you could give a statement that such and such a block appears to be consistent with the top X% of blocks of that wood you have examined/seen/sold etc. You could of course become more rigorous about judging each piece on multiple dimensions, employ some sort of randomization etc. etc. but then your posts would be pretty boring and no more meaningful.
 
I tend to prefer the scale Jason posted with a few mods:

Exhibition: 100% nice figure
Grade A: 75% nice figure
Grade B: 50% nice figure
Grade C: 10-25% figure
Utility: Nice grain, no real figure

I know it is more relegated to marketing, but such a system of grading could definitely help you when buying wood. Your exceptional pieces would be Grade A and Exhibition.

--nathan
 
It's all about puffing the product by the seller to create a perceived separation of "his" product from the competition. This is true whether the wood is call presentation grade, museum grade drop dead grade, unusual grade, extra hard grade or weird grade. It's all an attempt to influence, not define.

I probably should have just let this comment pass but I guess I'm not mature enough for that.

In an attempt to influence and not define I have used terms like presentation, weird and unusual.
This photo shows 8 different blocks, all western big leaf maple burl. Can you guess which ones I would call weird, unusual or even presentation?
ld003.jpg


I am also guilty of attempting to influence instead of define with redwood burl I have sold to unwary knife makers. Here is an example.
ld002.jpg


The top block is a piece of fairly normal redwood burl. Weighs 81 grams and you can dent it with your fingernail.
The bottom block weighs 133 grams and you can not dent it with your fingernail. Both are the same size. The top one is about 1/16th inch thicker.

Maybe I should just sell a piece of burl without photos since it's all the same anyways. I think not.

I apologize for the sarcasm, I just don't deal with implied comments of wrong doing and stereotyping very well.
 
If you decide to use a grading system:

I would keep it simple

Grades 1, 2, 3
or 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

and define your grade in each sales post...

using
hallocigenic, or exhibition, or presentation, or any other words, is meaningless, unless I can memorize your grading system along with everyone elses...
I have trouble with that, comparing different pieces...

a number scale, 1-5 or A, B, C, D...takes no explanation...
AA vs A ? It's not obvious to me which is better.

If you do use grades, keep the number of grades low like 3...absolutly no more than 5 grades.
If you concentrate on super great product then the lower grades don't matter...and don't pay to spend time on.
 
Last edited:
My thoughts are:

Just by looking at the blocks of maple burl in the photos, how do you decide which one is best and which is worse (higher or lower grade)? I bet if you asked 5 people you would get 5 different opinions.

I should have been more clear and just asked straight out; "Is a designation of grade important?" or "Do you prefer to make your own opinions and select what you like best?"
 
Burlsource....I am absolutely correct and you know it. Unfortunately, facts are difficult for some to deal with. Stop getting your feelings hurt, stand up and walk it off. Just stop the pissy comments...
 
Wow.... I've never found issue with Mark's descriptions as there is always a picture that I can see for myself what I'm getting. Buyer beware, isn't that the motto?

I'd go further to suggest that if one doesn't want to be pissed on, they shouldn't piss on others. If you've got personal axes to grind, take them to PM.

--nathan
 
The best description for your woods will always be a picture. They are consistently gorgeous in my eye. You mentioned the weight of some pieces, that is an easy thing to measure as density or weight per unit of volume. Otherwise your pictures are all the sales promotion you need. I admit I read your adds for the entertaining descriptions and humorous comments as well as for the wood pics. Yeah I know everyone says they read them for the articles.
 
Correct me please if I am wrong folks, but a block of wood CANNOT be declared anything until it is applied, finished, and presented. Yes, it looks pretty when it is in a block, but how many of us have opened said block and been disappointed in the past? No offense to the OP, but it happens...

Not trying to be a naysayer here, but I have worked several UGLY pieces of wood and all of a sudden realized that underneath the squareness was major beauty! Not just on knives, but MAINLY on other wood crafts such as display cases, cabinets, and other such items. Wood work is my first vice...

I think a lot of the "declaration" of the wood comes from the machining, the finish, the presentation, and WHAT the buyer wants... MANY times I have found a piece of wood to be "ugly" or strange in my opinion, only to have a customer, or potential customer, RAVE over it...

Just my 2 cents, and your mileage may vary...

Charlie
 
Mark, you've pointed out exactly why I am very reluctant to buy without a good picture of the exact block. What appeals to me may not appeal to someone else, etc.

Charlie has a good point too, what we reveal in a knife handle is not what the surface of the wood shows. I may be similar but it may be something else entirely. I'm still guessing there -- don't know any way to buy a block that will guarantee success.
 
A few suppliers have been buying blocks from me and reselling them as exhibition grade.

Is this the part that is really bothering you?
You think you could sell higher grades at higher prices?

There are alot of wood sellers out there.
Keep offering good wood at a good price and you will outlive them all.

...

and forget the grades, pics are best.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top