What material to get from Tandy for a beginner?

R

Railrider1920

Joined
Dec 14, 2010
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403
Hey Folks,
I would like to make a sheath or two. The first one will be for my first forged knife. I have never done any work with leather at all. I just found out about a Tandy store in new orleans La. I might try to get to the store and check out the things they have there. I have one of their catalogs, but I would like to see things in person to get a better idea of what they are, like the different weights of the leather. I'll probably go to the library and check out a couple of leather working books to get me started.

So what will I need to make a sheath, leather, needle of some type and string or thread. Anything else?

While I'm there at tandy, what type or weight of leather should I look at? I will probably want to dye it, probably do some "carving" or stamping on it.

What would be a good beginners "needle"? A needle or an awl with a thread bobbin in it?

Any particular type or brand of waxed thread? Any type to stay away from?

Do I need to get leather glue or will superglue gel or contact cement work if I need to glue something while sewing it together?

I did look around for a thread like this one, but didn't see one. If there is one and you know where it is, please feel free to post a link.

Thanks for any suggestions offered,
Rob
 
Glad you asked this question. I am curious as well. Went to the leather store this weekend to get a belt blank to make a strop and started looking around at supplies for sheath making. There is a lot of gear in those stores and I suspect a person could drop a fair but of coin making assumptions about needed supplies. A clear list of needed items would be a great help.
 
As long as you are going to the Tandy store, they should be able to walk you around, point out the various tools you need and how to use them.
I would also buy the following books by Al Stohlman:
The Art of hand Sewing Leather, and
The Art of Making Cases, vol. 1...must have books for all leather workers.
 
tooling leather (7-9 oz), needles, groover, stitch wheel, waxed thread or linen thread and beeswax, sharp razor blades are bare min
 
rayban, thanks for the book suggestions.

crb900son, thanks for the list. It helps out a bunch. At least know I won't believe the sales person when they tell me I have to start out with the most expensive 25 oz leather they suggest. Got your email, just might take you up on it.

Rob
 
Railrider1920. Leather will be key. As stated 7/8 oz weight is what I would prefer for sheaths, but be aware and do not buy belly leather. A good rule to remember is that the most expensive leather you will ever buy is the cheapest you can find. Think about it. Good Luck.

Paul
 
Lol, yup, makes sense. Whats the difference between 7-8 belly and 7-8 shoulder? is it just inferior leather, falls apart, doesn't dye well? would belly leather be good for practicing on?
Thanks
 
When you buy leather - all leather has natural marks and man made ones. I usually buy double shoulder. Email me or contact me if u got any questions. ill help any way I can.
 
From what I was told and experienced myself:
As you know leather stretches. Part of a cow you get the leather from determines how much and in which direction (afaik in the way the hair grows on the animal) For example leather from the back is tough and wont stretch to much, belly stretches bit better, in one way, leather from the groin will stretch a lot and shrink more if you soak it in the water. You might want to think about it when planning what kind of sheath you are making. Is it going to be simple, tough slip-in or wet formed?

regards
mat
 
Hi Railrider,

I didn't see a way to make the holes to stitch through on any of the lists. I may have just missed seeing it. I'd include an awl or a set of thonging chisels. You could use a drill press if you have access to one.

Zed
 
I just made my first sheath, for a Mora 911.
From another beginner I'd like to add my thoughts. First, I spent $78 at Tandy leather. I bought 25 yds of waxed thread, some needles, a scratch awl, a bottle of dye, and the @ 3/16" leather. The leather cost $60.
A friend had a tool for rounding the edges and a roller for marking the holes for the thread. I used a Dremel tool drill press to make the holes and some rubber cement for holding things together while I made the holes. The scratch awl was useless except for scribing the line around my pattern.
Now I made a wet formed, durable, functional, plain sheath. It took me about 3-4 hrs to cut, prepare and sew the sheath. And another hour to dye and treat the leather after it had dried around the knife. Now, I have enough leather to make at least another ten sheaths. My friend made a sheath that took 3 pieces of leather but he got all of his leather out of the 'scraps' bin. Cost him a couple of bucks. If you haven't started yet, check your pattern, you could save a bundle on the leather for your first practice sheath.
I hand stitched my sheath. I should have bought some heavy tape to wrap my little fingers. I used a saddle stitch and just took the band aids off of the cuts in my fingers from tightening up the thread.
If I had it to do over, I'd have checked the scrap bin first. I don't think that would have made any difference as my sheath used a single piece of leather. I'd of also treated the inside of the leather before I sewed it up. I didn't use a gouge to inset the seam. To my inexperienced eye I may have to restitch it in a few years as the thread is exposed.
That's about it. My wife says that, "It is one of the most beautiful things she has ever seen. Now put it up and come to bed." I see a lot of room for improvement. ;)
 
Thanks guys,
I was thinking about making a couple of thonging chisels out of some old spade bits. I'll give it a shot any way. It's nice to know they might have a scrap bin there. I'll look around for it. Thanks Bo T
 
I use an old pair of work gloves for sewing.
The index finger and thumb tips were worn out so I cut them off.
That gives me the dexterity for the needles and protection to tighten the thread.
Give it a try :D
 
Bo T, if you used 3/16" thick leather, it's no wonder you have sore hands. And to buy that big a piece......sounds like you were misguided, misinformed, what ever........you don't need more than 8oz (1/8" thick) for making sheaths, and many other things....

I see so many beginners drilling holes for stitching anymore......so sad they are missing out on the joys of awl-man-ship....
 
cbr900son said:
If you have any more questions contact me again.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer. I just might do that. I was able to look around the tandy store one day last week. Unfortunately I only had $20 left while I was there so getting any leather will have to wait a little longer.

rayban, I took a look around your site. Nice looking sheaths and holsters. There is one sheath there in particular that I'd like more info about if you don't mind. I'm wondering how you got this type of "finish" (is that what it's called?) on this sheath. Just to the inside of the stitches is done with a stamp I'm guessing. How did you get that effect just after the stamped marks? It looks like it was forged and the marks were left in place. Is that done with a store bought stamp , homemade one or with something else completly?
Thanks

img_0420_250x166.jpg
 
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