What matters most for easy opening?

MTHall720

MTHall720

Joined
Sep 21, 2010
Messages
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Not counting assisted openers, the factors I have found have the most effect in making blade opening fastest and easiest (not counting the wave feature) are the following:
1) Thumb stud or Thumb hole or Flipper
2) Lock type -- Liner lock or Axis or Ball Bearing or Framelock with Lock back being one of the slowest for me.
3) Proper maintenance -- blade not rubbing, no buildup of gunk, and lubrication.

What combination of variables have effected speed and smoothness of opening for You?
 
The distance between the thumbstud or hole from the handle. Those knives where the stud is near the handle in closed position can be difficult. My easiest opening knife is Cold Steel new Voyager.
 
I think the most significant feature that lends itself to quick access is a hole in the blade. In my experience its as quick as a flipper and offers easy opening with pretty much any digit on your hand in a variety of grips. Unfortunately cutting a big hole in the blade weakens it a bit.

As far as the lock goes I like those with as few moving parts as possible.
 
Having some degree of coordination, hand strength, and manual dexterity. That is the biggest advantage.
 
All of the above points are very valid. I would love to add my 2 cents in observation...

For a quick opening folder, i've noticed that the less friction there is between any metal parts that touch the better. Most production blades i have get a thorough polishing at the pivot, liners, washers and blade. If its a spine lock like an Endura or Delica I polish all of those parts as well (careful not to remove any material, you don't want to change the geometry or damage the lock mech).

Secondly, the detent has very much to do with quick opening... not so much smooth opening but quick opening for sure. My Kershaw Tilt has a bearing system and a detent that's stronger than hell but when you hit the flipper, it flies open with as much force and as fast as any automatic (any automatic I have :)

Which brings me to my 3rd point, the weight of the blade itself. It seems to me that a heavier blade will flip with less effort once you overcome the initial "push" I have 3" blades and their larger 3.5" - 4" counter parts, I definitely feel that once given the same polishing treatment, the larger blades deploy faster. Once you get that larger mass moving you create the momentum. This is all strictly an observation not a fact... but to me it would make sense that once you get a larger mass in motion, it stays in motion longer and reaches its destination with more energy (sort of). Kind of like in the way that you would roll a bowling ball down a bowling alley lane vs rolling a tennis ball down the same lane. The bowling ball gets to the end of the lane with enough energy to knock down the pins whereas the tennis ball would get there with not nearly the same amount of energy.
 
My vote for smooth action, which is a result of design, parts tolerance, and finishing.
 
I wonder if there is a video which shows people like me who am not too sure what I am doing how to polish liners, pivots, etc? Do you use a Dremel for polishing?
 
The very best I've ever seen is my old Camillus Cuda .The stud is on the side of the frame and is 1/2" dia which is checkered .I don't know just how it's made. Slick as can be, never needs lube ,never needs cleaning , effort is minimal !!
 
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