What oil to protect blade ?

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AG

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Hi,

I know this subject has been heavily discussed before, but I find myself still confused. I can't seem to make up my mind about what oil to use to protect my blades. These are maily stainless production and some custom folders that are stored for long term and rarely see any work or exposure to the elements. My experience so far have been with:

1) Marine Tuf-Cloth: I can't evaluate its rust prevention but I jate the fact that it stains the blades with a layer of resedue and when I take them out for inspection they look like ****.

2) Break Free LP: Yes, you read it right , No "C" as Cleaning component here. It protects nicely against rust. CON: it leaves a silicon layer that attracts dust and other stuff.

3) WD-40: I really don't appreciate its rust preventing qualities as it vaporizes very fast and leaves a thin layer of oil. I wouldn't mention it unless Allen Elishewitz has once recommended it to me. PRO: It doesn't collect too much dust nor leaves the blade with ugly resedue.


What do you think ? Try to remain within this selection of products unless I missed one hell of a good product here.

Thanks
 
AG,

Two others that you might try are

Rem-Oil (found at Wal-Mart and elsewhere)
White Lightning

I have used the Tuf-Cloth for several months but just recently learned about Rem-Oil while touring the Microtech facility in Vero Beach, Florida. They use Rem-Oil exclusively on their knives and it must work because Vero Beach is right on the ocean with its wonderfully salty air.

White Lightning has been making a chain lubricant for bicycles for several years and it works great. Now they have a formula for knives and multi-tools that should work just as well. I've never tried it for my knives but my racing bikes all have White Lightning on the chain. It actually seems to repel the dirt and grit that accumulates on moving parts.

I hope you find something here helpful.

Brian_T
brianthornburg@home.com
 
I've been using birchwood casey's Sheath rust preventative for nearly 20 years...It works well for general prevention. when i'm around a salt atmosphere i use ski glider wax,it leaves a tuff film after a good buffing.
 
AG,
If you don't like the heavy film of rust inhibitor left on your blade from MARINE TUF-CLOTH[MARINE TUF-CLOTH is designed for extreme saltwater protection], try the regular TUF-CLOTH. It does a fine job of protecting blades in a 'normal storage' situation, and doesn't leave a visible film on the blade. Reserve the MARINE TUF-CLOTH for trips to the beach, etc.

------------------
Stay Sharp!
Will Fennell
Camillus Cutlery


 
What Will said. Plus, you can take a clean dry cloth and polish the haze off the knife. The thin film corrosion protection will still be present. Walt
 
In my experience, WD-40 is plenty effective if you're willing to put up with the light oily coat (that incidentally blocks air and moisture). I'm partial to the dry coating that a Tuf-Cloth leaves.

I have a whole spiel on lubricants (triggered by the mention of White Lightning) below.

There are two types of lubricant/rust protection that I am familar with: wet and dry. Wet types are those similar to WD-40 or Tri-Flow, while White Lighting would be a dry type. (Chain lubricant is primarily that; rust protection is secondary, as the chain should be cleaned often)

At least on bicycle chains (knife pivots and general knife protection would obviously be very different stories), there is an easy way to describe the difference in performances: wet is limited by time, dry by distance/crud removed.

Wet lubes apparently lose their effectiveness mainly by drying up. Dry lubes (White Lightning in particular, which forms a waxy barrier that wears gradually to provide the lubricity) are used up by cycles.

Thus, wet lube would last through one really-nasty-muddy day of racing, but dry could go for months of light use without a relube.

Therefore, it would seem that a dry lube would be best to use on a folder (unless it's being constantly flipped open and closed.
 
i use flitz-wax on my high dollar knives that will never see use and coat my using knives with tuf-cloth. works best for me
Ray
 
Tuf-cloth works extremely well. However if you are paranoid (like I am) about the effects of ingesting the chemicals from tuf-cloth, I use mineral oil to protect knives that will touch food. Mineral oil a common household laxative that is not as long lasting as tuf-cloth, but it still works fine as a corrosion preventative.
 
I have always liked TKX. I was under the impression this is what Microtech uses, but maybe they have switched.

I know that the bead blast finish MT I bought a few months back was coated with TKX. (It has avery distinct smell, good in my opinion) And it had been sitting in the box on a dealers shelf for over a year. Didn't have any sign of rust/oxidation whatsoever.

It works for me. The place I bought it from is Grainger. www.grainger.com
 
I've never used any of the Sentry Solutions products, but I found Rem Oil to work well, and Break Free CLP to work better. Even household 3-in-1 oil will work, but not as well as most others (and I couldn't safely say it won't stain, either).

Razor

------------------
AKTI #A000845
And tomorrow when you wake up it will be worse.

 
RustFree, by A.G.Russell, is made for the purpose, and works very well, with no odor that I can detect.A drop or two will protect an entire blade.I recommend it highly.You can order off of the www.agrussell.com website.

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AKTI Member #A000934
"The more corrupt the state, the more numerous the laws."-TACITUS (55?-130?)

 
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